We've all heard about those idle problems and how to fix-em. However, I searched this entire web site, tried every reccomendation and... nothing.

I brought the car to Mazda and found out that the metering pump went. The part is only $267, but the labor is $357 and once they install the pump they have to go in and adjust the idle. If you purchase an RX7 that has been sitting - bring it to Mazda first!

 

No they don't. You got ripped.

MOP has no control over idle, unless something was previously binding.
You just handed out $500 worth of bad advice.

 

If OMP did go out.. just run premix.

 

HOLY CRAP! Thats UNGODLY expensive!

 

I KNOW MOST OF YOU GUYS ARE VERY SMART WHEN IT COMES TO THE RX7 ETC. BUT COME ON, YOU MEAN TO TELL ME THAT MAZDA WOULD GO AND RIP ME LIKE THAT? I CONTACTED 2-DEALERS AND THERE PRICES WERE ABOUT THE SAME. THEY SAID ONCE THE METERING PUMP IS REMOVED AND REPLACED - THEY MUST GO BACK AN ADJUST THE IDLE. MY IDLE WAS AT 4K RPM AND THAT WAS NOT MOVING! THE CAR WAS DUMPING MORE FUEL THAN NECESSARY CAUSE IT WAS NOT GETTING ANY OIL. DOES ANY OF THIS MAKE SENSE? THIS IS WHAT THEY TOLD ME. ALSO, MY CAR IS THE 10TH ANNIV EDITION 1988. THEY SAID IT HARDER TO WORK ON?

 

Or for about 10.00 you can block off your OMP, run premix and have a much happier car and 490.00 bux to spend on go fast parts. If you do the work yourself

 

Lol they ripped you off so bad. A 10AE is mechanically identical to any other 88 T2. There is no way its harder to work on. Its a general rule that a Mazda dealership will rip you off quite hard, although there are a few exceptions, like Malloy. But do the work yourself, you'll enjoy your car so much more knowing you accomplished something.

 

Wow, they asked you to bend over and grab your ankles. How much did it cost you to get this diagnosed? It's not a 10 minute job to test the OMP properly .. if they did not charge you at least a couple of Hr's labor to test it .. they are probably FOS about what the problem even is.


-Robert

 

No, it does not make sense. If your engine was not getting MOP oil, then it is going to have experienced some serious wear, which would have a huge affect on life of the engine and running condition. If the MOP was not working, your idle would be lower, due to higher frictional losses and loss of compression, not higher.

If your MOP arm jammed in the up position, the throttle could still return to normal.

You got ripped. MOP replacement is 60 mins at best, and idle adjustment is 30 mins max if you remotely know what you are doing. $357 for 90 mins of labour?

 

Sorry to say, but you've been taken advantage of by either intentionally crooked people or hopelessly ignornat people.

An 88 ECU has not a clue about how much oil is being metered and does not have the ability to do squat about it. Read the Control Section of the FSM.

4000 rpm is not an idle. Its something in the nature of a stuck open throttle linkage/plates etc.

This sounds like it's going to be a learning experience for you and your wallet. I'm not ragging on you and neither are the above posts. About the only way for you to go is to take this up as a hobby and read the online FSM, or get intouch with a experienced mechanic in your local area. Preferably someone with Mazda Rotary experience........but even a *normal*, good, mechanic should be able to resolve your idle problem. It'll just take him a touch longer.

 

Or for about 10.00 you can block off your OMP, run premix and have a much happier car and 490.00 bux to spend on go fast parts. If you do the work yourself
----------------
CBROCK -- "?" How do you do this? I just got the car... Not sure. Also everyone: Mazda claims it takes 5 hours to repair a MOP. The MOP is frozen and needs to be replaced. This sucks. I should pull the car out, but not good on the mechanics end of it. Sort of, but dont know enough to fix this part. WHAT THE HELL DO I DO?

 

p.s. This site rocks the house for info. I hate to hear I got ripped, but now I have a chance to stop them for f'n me in the rear.

 

Sorry to say, but you've bee

 

I was told the the MOP jam the rod that goes to the idle, which sticks and makes the car rev-hard. The MOP is frozen, no good and must be replaced.

 

oh my god.

Here is the problem with Mazda dealers, their mechanics literally have no idea what they are doing. I took my car to Gunther down here and they literally gave me my money back because they did not know what they were doing.

 

I called a local, he's putting together a price quote now

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=225649

see - I searched and got some info. Quick question: If I want to run at 1:150 ratio and I add 15 gallons of gas - Should I dump 12 oz of 2-stroke oil in the tank prior to adding the 15 gallons? I just want to make sure I run a good mixture.

 

I'd recommend you download the engine section from the FSM (factory service manual) for your car. You can download the entire FSM for free at www.fc3s.org ...

Print out the engine and lubrication sections and take it to your chosen mechanic, or do it yourself (no better way to learn).

 

That's all fine and dandy, but geesh... can't someone just tell me how much oil I should dump into it?

 

8oz prior to gasoline.

Not oil either, TCW3 2-stroke premix...most gas stations have it.

 

JOSEPI - Thanks, you rock!

 

YIKES! ONE MORE THING TO KNOW. I ADD 8 .0Z TO HOW MANY GALLONS? 15?

 

Hit:



Full tank.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=64310

Cornucopia of premixing knowledge. All at your fingertips.

Right around where the CAPS LOCK is.

 

hahahaha... lol sorry about the cap locks... that was a good one...