YES i know this is another pulsing idle thread, ive searched and nothing seemed to help. once the accelerated warmup shuts off, the idle pulses from like 1000 to 0. then i have to restart my car. i have, in turn, developed a neat little heel-and-toe manuever that keeps my car running at lights. i really dont like doing this and if theres any advice you guys have, i want it. i unplugged the BAC and the car just died :-( and ive adjusted that damn TPS and it changed nothing. i dont have any visible vacuum leaks. a guy at a local shop tells me it probably has something to do with the airbox or something...

 

could try cleaning bac valve

http://1300cc.com/

select 2nd gen
than go to General Maintenance
and select bac valve cleaning

hope it helps

 

that or really checking the vac lines or if its tII adjust the bac or the tps i see that youve already done this but it doesent hurt....i know how you feel cause i have the same problem...and thats what everyones telling me....good luck..

 

I had this same problem in my FC before I rebuilt it. If you go to an auto parts store and buy a bottle of brake cleaner. While the car is running spray all vac lines you can see. If the idle increases you have a vac leak. Then all you have to do is narrow it down which I know can be a challenging task.

 

THE BIT HINT: You should, on a warmed up engine, be able to pull the bac's electrical plug off, and the engine should still idle. Not die.

If it dies, then go to the FSM and set the idle like the manual tells you to do.

Again, a fully warmed up engine should idle without a bac in the picture. Or I'll make a little concession to that statement. Warm up your engine with the bac plug on, then install the initial set coupler. The engine should still idle.

What the initial set coupler does is set the bac duty cycle at a fixed duty cycle. So with the initial set coupler installed the bac is still doing SOMETHING, but not really compensating for a low idle.

Personally I set the the idle with the bac plug off (not per fsm) and then after setting the idle as close to seven fifty as I can, reinstall the bac's plug. If idling when you do that, the idle will chug up/down about four times and then settle down to a seven fifty idle.

 

these are all good ideas, but the thing of it is...it doesnt idle at all. id do the brake cleaner thing, but theres no idle to see if it raises. once its warmed up, the car bounces from 1000 to 0. the car dies. it wont run for any more than 10 or 15 seconds without my foot on the gas.

 

if you came over fiday night we would have been able to fix that but some one didnt answer their phone. i didnt answer mine cause i was under my car puttin on swaybars so i couldnt get to my phone in time when you called.

 

oh, damn...i was at sams house which is pretty much a cell phone dead area :-/

 

dude same problem, but it only happes every once in a while when i turn my car on, and i too composed a similar method to keep my car running haha.

 

I have the same problem right now on a 88Tii

 

try adjusting the screw to the right of the tps,(tps is on the throttle body), i THINK that might do it...
the reason (in my opinion) its not idling is prolly because the throttle isent adjusted right and its fully closing...witch in turn is not feeding the engine gas....this is what i think, so try it, its worth at least trying....right?
good luck

:AA:

 

I adjusted the **** outta that thing, even made my own test light. No luck. I have sunday off and i just bought a multimeter so ill probably test the TPS itsself.