UnderConstruction7

So I have a slight idle problem. When cold, my car can be started and go right to idle(besides the AWU process). After it gets completly warmed up though, the idle(that once sat at 1500rpms) slips down notch by notch each time I come to a complete stop(redlights, stop signs, etc.). I'd say by my 4th or 5th stop. My car is wanting to stall each time it's not moving.

Oddly enough though, when i'm sitting still & it's trying to stall out, my boost gauge jumps up from sensing no boost at all as the needle on the tachometer slips past the 1000rpm mark.

Anybody have any ideas or has had a similar problem? I have my thoughts on what it could be, but i'd rather have some other opinions to see if i'm on the right track.

Side note : Yesterday when it pulled the stalling when warm problem. I tried the pull the EGI fuse method, and it didn't work. Now before that time, I had to do it before. Would doing this cause the spark plugs to not fire? Because my motor is turning over, but it's not igniting

Mint87RX7

try to explain what your boost guage is doing a little better. ive never owned a turbo so im not an expert but it seems that if your boost guage is doing weird **** at idle then i could be a vac leak. you always want to check for vac leaks with bad idle anyway

marlaman

I'll tell you exactly what is wrong. TRUST ME ON THIS. check the resistances of the injectors while the car is powered on but not running, if ONE of your primary injectors isn't firing it'll do this exactly. it also took me 2 months to figure out after doing a ton of other very minor things.

You need new injector leads form the ECU and back to the little power module--simply put, get a new wiring harness. best $100 you'll spend to get it running right again.

don't argue with me on this, i'm right.
Matt

fc3s91

iTrader: (23)

S4 or S5? From my experence, On s5 I have found the TPS likes to go out of adjustment. I would adjust that before Spending $100. To check you wire leads from your ecu to you injector plug with an ohms meter. It should read .01-.03 ohms. If no reading than you have a broken wire. If you have highier readings then I listed , replace wiring. Also make sure when testing to isolate ( disconnect ) injector leads and ecu. Or you will get feedback from system. Also check for vacuum leaks around the uim by spraying carb cleaner when engine is running.
Thanks Robert

fc3s91

iTrader: (23)

One more thing Check your BAC with an ohms meter per fsm. I hope you have a manual!!!!
Thanks Robert

UnderConstruction7

Haha, alright Matt. I'll check them before I have them cleaned(professionally). As for the vacuum leak, that's the first thing I checked because it's impossible to get a steady idle if it's not getting the vacuum it needs.

My boost gauge sits as if the car was powered off completly before the stalling, As I left the tachometer drop to 1,000rpms or lower. The boost needle pops up from laying at a 180 degree angle(flatline___)

The wiring harness, huh. Would just pulling one off another S4 T2 do the trick or would I be better off buying a brand new one(assuming they make new ones)? If so, who makes the new wiring harnesses? Also, what range of resistance should the injectors be at when tested?

fc3s91

iTrader: (23)

Injectors will depend on high impedence or low impedence. Low 2-3 ohms, high 12-14 ohms
Thanks Robert

UnderConstruction7

I wish I had a factory service manual, it'd probably help with the jumbled questions floating around my head.

Where's an RX-7 Pro close by when I need one. My car is currently sitting in the front of an auto shop. Yet, it's not getting worked on. It's just dead. I was planning on changing the spark plugs tomorrow. Just to get it started and somewhere where I can do something with it. Like my school, which is about 5mins down the road from where the car currently is.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

I can't add anything to what's already been said. My idle problems were solved by TPS adjustment, but then I have an N/A. I would ask that once you have been able to solve the problem, you post results and what it took to fix it. Feedback to all us other users is always a good thing.

xjerzeyboy17

i had the same problem with my idle and all i did was change my fuel filter and it worked

syklone

The FSM is available for free online. www.iluvmyrx7.com

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

bring that car home before it costs you a crap load of money! what it looks like you need to do is search for:

1. tps adjustment (don't think thats it.)
2. wiring harness install
3. changing the fuel filter

probably more stuff but really everything they have mentioned up above is not that hard to do with a little research, and some posting you should be fine and it won't cost you anything but parts and your time.

fc3s91

iTrader: (23)

Hey Jose fuego is near you in orlando. His phone # is (407) 438-1568. Give him a call
Thansk Robert