i searched and was not satisfied that anyone has a thread with the same exact problem.

i have an '87 Tii and it has been in and out of idleing. when i bought the car[dec.] it had a high idle but not too high[approx 1200]. after a few months the idle had slightly elevated to about 14-1500 on a regular idleing basis. about a few weeks ago it ended almost a month of good idleing[about 700-900] but it would only do this after being "drven" for about 15-20 mins or more.......i.e. highway or similar driving.

now when i start it its between 13 and 15 hundred........and the longer i drive it the lower idle gets; 10 mins - ~1000, 15mins ~600, 20+mins it idles about 3-5 if it idles at all i have to hold the throttle very litely at a stop. its HELL in city traffic!!

is there anyone who's seen this before???

could it be my O2 sensor? BAC?

i hate to go ask mazda to fix my car, because one the retards will tell me they can't work on rotaries and two if they do it they'll charge me out the butt!!

 

TPS adjustment per the FSM first thing...

 

:-/ Vacuum hose acting up?

-=Russ=-

 

it sounds like your car isnt warming up correctly. have you tried resetting your variable resistor or idle screw? you should try opening it up, at least that way it wont stall out.

it sounds like a bad water temp sensor to me though.

does it make a difference if you drive hard or not?
it sounds heat soak related if it takes 20 minutes to kick in fully.

 

so what are the suggestions here?

reset my idle??......i did that once[pretty sure the right way]......and its weird because the car stales every now and then while attempting to idle, but it runs pretty rich so its not a lack of fuel.......my guess is way too much fuel.

anyway, if its a bad temp sender should my needle be acting up because as far as i can tell that works fine still.

 

Drive the car til it gets hot and does that 300/500 rpm idle. Pop the hood and pull the bac plug off. Answer this: when you did that, did the rpms go up/down/around??????

If nothing happened when you did that.....the bac is not working or the signal to the bac from the ECU is not happening.

Also if when you pulled the plug off the bac and the idle remained at say 300/500.......your idle needs to be set right. The idle should be set at approx 750, not 300/400rpm.

There is a thermowax device that works on a fast idle cam and fast idle screw. When the car is cold the device keeps the throttle cracked open a touch. AS the water warms up and the thremowax expands and kicks the plunger off the cam....the throttle is not cracked open that extra bit as mentioned above and the engine should idle at a 750 rpm idle IF the idle was set right in the first place.

Once the idle is set RIGHT at seven fifty, and the signal to the bac from the ECU is good and the bac is good, the bac will try its very best to maintain that seven fifty idle speed even if you turn the headlights on or the a/c on or step on the brakes etc. The bac will make up for the extra load by those devices and maintain a seven fifty idle.

IF the idle is NOT set to seven fifty.....then the bac runs its little legs off trying to maintain a seven fifty idle. The bac will not be efficient when the idle has not been set right at seven fifty in the first place. The bac will get tired of running it's little legs off to correct a misrigged idle and will pee on you at stop lights for revenge.