Well, I pulled off the throttle body, and the black spacer / vacuum thing. Made sure all the air paths were free flowing, and they are.

But, when I turn the screw, screwed all the way down. The car will just die. Almost completely up, and the car will idle at 600 - 650.

Now, timing has been set with it at 600-650 with the screw almost out. Proper way to adjust everything? Setting idle from step one?

Also, on the throttle body, on the vacuum side, there is a Y shape for the hole that goes through the throttle body. On the black spacer / vacuum thing, it attaches to nothing. I remember there being something on one of the other spacers. I think i had an S4 and an S5 one, for when I did the manifold swap. But, the S4 i think didn't have the vacuum ports matching up correctly. Does this Y effect anything in the idle setup?

Thanks!

 

You to use a jumper on the test connector to adjust the idle properly.

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1

 

Yeah, make sure you jumper the initial set coupler before adjusting. You can also fine tune the mixture at the variable resistor.

And don't mix and match the TB spacers. The spacer HAS to match the intake manifold, so that should be S5 for you. It may not look like the openings go anywhere at first glace, but look again...they do. I've traced the paths on both S4 and S5 NA TB spacers to determine which ones were vacuum, and which were metered air.

 

Yea I didn't swap the spacers. I could see that the holes on the S5 spacer lined up with the S5 manifold, and I could tell where the holes went. They went to the throttle passages.

Must be because I don't have the initial set jumpered. But, I would think that adjusting the air screw while the car is running would cause the idle to go up, or down whether the jumper is on or not.

 

That jumper keeps the computer from stabilizing the idle with the BAC. If you mess with the screw when the jumper is not connected, the computer compensates for your adjustments.

 

I don't have the BAC. I removed it all.

I had a feeling there was a reason i didn't jumper that. haha. Is there anything else it does?

 

You might consider putting the BAC back on. As mentioned before, the ECU uses is to stabilize idle speed, which could help you get your idle back up to 750+ rpm. You can get rid of the coolant hoses that go through it so you save yourself all the clutter, but still get a functional BAC.

The alternative would be to adjust the throttle stop, so the plates stay open a tiny bit more.

 

Cool. With my manifold the way it is, I can't put BAC back on. I'll adjust throttle plates. Been reading the FSM. I have a few ideas.

Thanks for all the responses!

 

With no BAC you only have the two adjustments, it's still nice to set the initial set because it won't screw around with the timing on you or do any other strange things, but ideally you'll want to turn your idle screw inwards while opening the throttle plates EVER so slightly, typically I like to set the plates to about 700~750 with the adjustment screw about 2 turns out. I lock that down and make sure it's still at ~750, then I dial it up to about 850 with the adjustment screw and leave that as my new idle. I typically do this as electrical load/temperature/etc is going to play havoc with your idle so having it slightly higher will give you a few less 'stalls' at lights with your lights/etc on.

 

Good plan. I think I will be doing that on my next day off.