idle after warmed, no idle at startup
#1
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
idle after warmed, no idle at startup
hey everyone,
now that i did the resistance method to adjust the tps, the idle smoothed out quite a lot.
a few things still exist though,
1. once in a while my car will still make popping noises.
2. my car will not keep a cold start idle, it will drop to near 0 then raised to 1200 quickly, then repeat until the temp reading is at 1/4 - 1/2
if i adjusted the Tps already, what else can be causing this/can i do?
btw: how are you guy's experience when using black RTV on the BAC gasket? i made the gasket out of those black RTVs and wonder maybe it is that problem.
now that i did the resistance method to adjust the tps, the idle smoothed out quite a lot.
a few things still exist though,
1. once in a while my car will still make popping noises.
2. my car will not keep a cold start idle, it will drop to near 0 then raised to 1200 quickly, then repeat until the temp reading is at 1/4 - 1/2
if i adjusted the Tps already, what else can be causing this/can i do?
btw: how are you guy's experience when using black RTV on the BAC gasket? i made the gasket out of those black RTVs and wonder maybe it is that problem.
Last edited by Cybaster; 10-11-04 at 03:51 PM.
#2
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Thermowax and bac still there? I used the black RTV on my bac after I had it polished and it sealed fine, but I did this in conjuction with the old BAC gasket.
#3
Can't stop breaking my rx
Join Date: Mar 2004
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I have a similar problem. Only with me there is no idle at all. It just dies. My Wax is just hanging there, not connected.. Is that bad? I adjusted my tps a while ago and got rid of my bouncing. Also what might help you Cyblaster is adjusting that screw on top of the TB under that rubber cap. It might not but i think i remember it helping me. I also have RB headers, and i have to turn that Rich and Lean screw all the way up or it dies too. Anything I can do. It also Idles real hash every since i put the RB headers in and had to make it so rich. It also back fires alot.
#4
Mountain Rotary Mod
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The thermowax and dashpots must me connected and functioning on the TB for cold idle to work. If you remove them or they are not functioning you will have a hard time getting the card to idle while cold.
#6
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
ok so anyways, update...
i used RTV before for the BAC..... well guess what? the black RTV sucked into the BAC...
so i used gasket making paper
so that was causing my idle problems. well anyways, still one problem exist is (if u read some of my other post before) my idle is fine now except sometimes at cold start, it fluctuates, and when it is warmed, the idle will stay roughly below 1000 but when i press the gas it will jump up to 1500, there is a strange thing though, when i let the rev drop (lets say i've stopped, and put the car in 4th gear, release the clutch and let the rev drop lower than 1000...) then the car idles back at ~1000 when i put it back in neutral...
so i am back to my problem before i took out my BAC and cleaned... i think the BAC might be bad.... any ideas?
also where can i get my BAC polished/tested?
i used RTV before for the BAC..... well guess what? the black RTV sucked into the BAC...
so i used gasket making paper
so that was causing my idle problems. well anyways, still one problem exist is (if u read some of my other post before) my idle is fine now except sometimes at cold start, it fluctuates, and when it is warmed, the idle will stay roughly below 1000 but when i press the gas it will jump up to 1500, there is a strange thing though, when i let the rev drop (lets say i've stopped, and put the car in 4th gear, release the clutch and let the rev drop lower than 1000...) then the car idles back at ~1000 when i put it back in neutral...
so i am back to my problem before i took out my BAC and cleaned... i think the BAC might be bad.... any ideas?
also where can i get my BAC polished/tested?
Last edited by Cybaster; 10-24-04 at 09:14 PM.
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