My Idoit light buzzer wont go off. Im talking the high pitched steady buzzer that comes on when the oil is low or coolant is low. You know what I mean. Where is it and how do I kill it.... Remove it easily. Its behind the gauge cluster somewheres.

 

If you fill your fluids up, the buzzer will go off.

 

fix the car and the buzzer will stop buzzing

 

listen to the above two posts.

otherwise, pull out the guage cluster, turn it over. its the little box w/ 4 pins on the circuit board. desolder and remove it.

pat

 

i had the same problem but i found that there was the wires at the under the car that some how got snaged and i needed to connect them adn the buzzer stoped

 

All wires connected. All Fluids topped. All sensors checked. Still buzzing. Says my oil level is low. Its not low. Sensor works fine (tested it as manual instructed). Even grounded the wire. Did nothing.

I will note it was fine until I did a U-Turn the other night. I suspect something came undone. My prognosis, who cares? Light Bulbs work, why do I need to have the ****** buzzer? If I was blind, I wouldn't be driving! I can see the little red light fine!


Desolder removal it is!


Anyone else have any input?

 

Why do you need the buzzer, quite simple, things can go wrong quickly, and you may be busy with other things. Watching the road, concentrating on a race, jamming to the tunes, playing with the passenger, what ever, **** happens, keep the buzzer and fix the problem correctly.

The rotary you save may be your own.

 

If you dont care about the health of your engine go ahead and ground the sensor at the top of the rad. Obviously if your buzzer is still going off with your fluids at full something else is wrong. Is it the low oil or low coolant light that is going off when the buzzer sounds? If it's coolant light/buzzer you may have air bubbles in your system.

 

*sigh* Go ahead, remove the buzzer. 6 months down the road when you come here whining that your engine is dead because it (overheated/ran out of oil) due to a (blown coolant line/blown oil cooler line) and you didn't notice because (the sun was on the panel/your hand was up your passenger's shirt/the music was too good/you were concentrating on the road), nobody will have any sympathy for you.

Speaking as someone who has had a coolant line spring a leak while on the road, that buzzer is quite the attention getter. I'm not sure I would have noticed the light, because of the way the sun was coming in through the sunroof. The buzzer got my attention, I was able to shut down before any damage was done, and the car is still running fine. If you completely blow a coolant line (and suffer more-or-less instant loss of coolant), you don't have very long at all to shut the engine down before rebuild-inducing damage occurs.

-=Russ=-

 

I could chase around and fix the thing, but that would probably require removal of most of the car. If I ground the wire then I obviously have more to worry about than if the sensor works or not. And Im more alert than most drivers on the road. My Coolant level sensor doesnt work (lousy repair by the last owner). And the oil sensor tested fine, its just grounding out somewhere or whatever. Always on. I Can put 8 litres of oil in the engine and its still on. Drain it all and its still on. I dont really have time to spend hour upon hour upon hour to find a stupid loose wire thats really not nessesary. Heck my OMP doesnt even work. I use premix. I just needed to know where the buzzer was. Without the buzzer, Im pretty sure I'd notice the big red light come on. Without the big red light, I happen to check under the hood everyday before I drive. I dont just get in it and drive.

 

its pretty simple to find the problem if you have a multi-meter... 1000 times easier than ripping apart the dash, then unsoldering the buzzer.

If you fix the car like micky mouse... you will have a micky mouse car

 

So say about 95% of drivers on the road.

-=Russ=-

 

Its not my fault people have cell phones stuck to their faces, causing them to be lousy drivers. I've even seen a guy killed because of that. In fact, the lady got out of her car to check on the guy and she was still talking on the phone. Even when the police came and started to question her, she was still talking. One of the officers grabber her phone and threw it as far as he could. He then proceeded to turn to her and scream as loud as I've ever heard a cop yell 'You just killed a man!!!'. She started crying and ****. They threw the cuffs on her and threw her in the car without further questions.


I plan on spending about 30 minutes on the buzzer today. If It can't be solved in that time, removal of the buzzer (or power to it) will be in order. I've spent too much time in the past chasing down wires in the past. Electronics **** me off, especially on cars.

 

I'm still wondering which idiot light is on when the buzzer is going off. I mean you said it yourself that the water level sensor was a hack job. Maybe that's why your buzzer is going off????? Just replace it. It's a cheap part and is pretty much a one time purchase.

 

i got a ticking sound go off while the belt light flashes it is real annoying.Also my belts dont work they will go up after closing the door but opening it or sometimes closing it they dont even try to work

 

You can get them fixed for free at the dealer under recall.

Come out to our meet today. 6PM on top of the parking structure next to dave and busters at the great mall in milpitas. PM me if you need more info.

 

Says my oil level is low. Replaced my Coolany Level sensor AND my oil level sensor. The Coolant one works. Oil Sensor is brand new so it must work.

Replaced Idiot Light Cluster. Going to replace the CPU next. I read an article about how sometimes those components cause the alarm to go off.

 

why don't you go and check it out with a meter before wasting money on new parts?

CPU would have nothing to do with it unless all the lights were on, on the idiot lights.

Idiot light cluster would have nothing to do with it unless all the lights were on on the idiot lights.

And yes even if the sensor is new it can be bad if installed incorrectly or damaged before installation.

 

I tested the wires and the sensors. They all work the way they should EXCEPT the oil level sensor LINE. The one that comes off the cars harness. You can do anything you want to it and the alarm is still on.

 

okay, with the red/white oil level sensor unplugged, is there ground on the car side of the wire with the key on?

and on the sensor side of the wire? Remember this is with the sensor unplugged. So you have two sides of the unplugged wire. Car side and sensor side.

To test this set your meter for 12+ volts DC, put the red or + lead of your meter on a good 12 volt + source (such as the Positive battery terminal) and the Negitive or black lead of your meter on the appropriate side of the red/white sensor wire. If there is ground you will see the meter display 12 volts.

 

Someone does their homework lol. What happens if the car side isnt working?

The only way I solved it was to take the fuse for the cluster out. I have an aftermarket Tach and my Speedo is mechnical so it doesnt bother me too much. It would be nice to watch my fuel level decrease when I punch it though.........

 

If the car side does not have ground on it then the wiring and gauges, and idiot lights are all PERFECTLY FINE. There is not a short, there is not a bad panel, there is not a bad CPU, there is nothing wrong with the CAR.

And the problem is with the Sensor! There should only be ground on the sensor side of the wire if there is low oil or a bad sensor.