I WANT consistency darn it!
Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
I WANT consistency darn it!
okay, i know the weather/tempurature plays a huge role on engine performace, especially with the turbo's... having that said, this is my problem/issue...
usually when i drive the car for the FIRST time on a given day (hot or cold/night or day), i'm "HAPPY", as it makes great power and it makes that power "consistently" which makes me a super proud RX7 owner hehe...
so i turn the car off, and it could be off for a period of 15-30 minutes/3-4 hours... doesnt matter... but once i drive the car again, i can definitely feel a lack of power.
before i go off trying to explain, i have an 87 Turbo II, mods include JDM S5 Turbo II block, Rtek 1.7, 720cc secondaries, FD fuel pump, 3" DP, 2.5" catback dual exhaust, Hybrid S5 turbo (unfamiliar with it's specs)...
now, my guesses on this are:
¹ heat soak
i have the stock top mount, BUT, if this is the case, why was my FC pulling hard at 8:30am (approximately 80ºF) ALL THE WAY to work and not at 9PM when it's alot cooler?
² oil leak
i have an oil leak dripping from the oil pan, i assume this has an affect on the oil pressure? maybe this explains why it only pulls hard on the first drive when the oil pressure is solid? i'm using 10w40 oil btw, should i switch to a thicker oil since it's getting pretty hot here in so.cal (+85ºF)?
³ voltage
my "stock" volt meter is not as consistent either... usually the line is above the 12 volt mark and right below the first line, and sometimes i'd catch it above that first line... when i see it above that first line after the 12 volt line, the car feels like it has better response, and the lights are somewhat brighter. i just replaced the battery... maybe i should do the alternator next? it's an S5 alt btw... also, even with the Rtek, i still get that hesitation around 3500 RPM... maybe i should re-do my grounds?
i'd like my car to run as solid as it does in the warm mornings and even BETTER at night when it gets cooler... but unfortunely it ain't like that... hopefully after i get the oil leak fixed, that'll solve this ordeal, but we'll see...
any input would help me stop wondering why the car perfoms that way and would be greatly appreciated... thanks for looking!
usually when i drive the car for the FIRST time on a given day (hot or cold/night or day), i'm "HAPPY", as it makes great power and it makes that power "consistently" which makes me a super proud RX7 owner hehe...
so i turn the car off, and it could be off for a period of 15-30 minutes/3-4 hours... doesnt matter... but once i drive the car again, i can definitely feel a lack of power.
before i go off trying to explain, i have an 87 Turbo II, mods include JDM S5 Turbo II block, Rtek 1.7, 720cc secondaries, FD fuel pump, 3" DP, 2.5" catback dual exhaust, Hybrid S5 turbo (unfamiliar with it's specs)...
now, my guesses on this are:
¹ heat soak
i have the stock top mount, BUT, if this is the case, why was my FC pulling hard at 8:30am (approximately 80ºF) ALL THE WAY to work and not at 9PM when it's alot cooler?
² oil leak
i have an oil leak dripping from the oil pan, i assume this has an affect on the oil pressure? maybe this explains why it only pulls hard on the first drive when the oil pressure is solid? i'm using 10w40 oil btw, should i switch to a thicker oil since it's getting pretty hot here in so.cal (+85ºF)?
³ voltage
my "stock" volt meter is not as consistent either... usually the line is above the 12 volt mark and right below the first line, and sometimes i'd catch it above that first line... when i see it above that first line after the 12 volt line, the car feels like it has better response, and the lights are somewhat brighter. i just replaced the battery... maybe i should do the alternator next? it's an S5 alt btw... also, even with the Rtek, i still get that hesitation around 3500 RPM... maybe i should re-do my grounds?
i'd like my car to run as solid as it does in the warm mornings and even BETTER at night when it gets cooler... but unfortunely it ain't like that... hopefully after i get the oil leak fixed, that'll solve this ordeal, but we'll see...
any input would help me stop wondering why the car perfoms that way and would be greatly appreciated... thanks for looking!
Law Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 0
From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
I use 20w50, though a small oil leak from the pan is not going to really hurt performance especially since there's almost always a leak somewhere. clean your grounds and use some dielectric grease on them. Aaron Cake should be coming out with his version of a "regrounding the grounds" writeup, when I don't know for sure.
heat soak
if you want consistency then you need consistent underhood temps. it is much tougher for the cooling system to cool off a heat soaked engine than to keep a warming up engine cool and the hotter it gets the less performance you will net.
if you want consistency then you need consistent underhood temps. it is much tougher for the cooling system to cool off a heat soaked engine than to keep a warming up engine cool and the hotter it gets the less performance you will net.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jul 19, 2006 at 02:41 PM.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
that is one good statement Karack... yeah, it does get pretty hot under that hood when i stand next to it... i forgot to add that i've got a koyo rad and a taurus e-fan... what i'd really like to get is a nice vented hood...
true that... i'll try to find the time to clean the grounds...
i'll be on the lookout...
there anyone else out there who's experiencing this "lack of power"?
Originally Posted by carzy driver
I use 20w50, though a small oil leak from the pan is not going to really hurt performance especially since there's almost always a leak somewhere. clean your grounds and use some dielectric grease on them.
Originally Posted by carzy driver
Aaron Cake should be coming out with his version of a "regrounding the grounds" writeup, when I don't know for sure.
there anyone else out there who's experiencing this "lack of power"?
Even on my squirted 7 I get this lack after it warms up. The only way I can think of is to put heat shields and insulation on the exhaust, have a vented hood, very insulated CAI, and have the e-fan run for ten minutes after shut-down.
even with my fully modified cooling system, engine, wiring and ducting i really notice the heat soak factor. i'm sure a true CAI would help this but the big factor is the heat soak factor, the only way around it is some major ducting/cooling changes to keep the engine bay cool.
think of it like sleeping when you are hot, then throw a blanket on top and you are very uncomfortable, this is how your engine feels - suffocated.
think of it like sleeping when you are hot, then throw a blanket on top and you are very uncomfortable, this is how your engine feels - suffocated.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jul 19, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
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Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
hehe i would if i could! my FC is the only car i got! and i'm just rackin up them miles... i need a daily!
haha, not only is the car undergoing heatsoak.... I AM! hehe i have no a/c!
underbelly pan? not too sure whatcha mean...
haha, not only is the car undergoing heatsoak.... I AM! hehe i have no a/c!
underbelly pan? not too sure whatcha mean...
Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
interesting...
that's a real big plus to have read
i wish i had a hydraulic lift to go under the car and try to sort things out... shoot what am i talking about? i don't even have jack stands =X
you think the stock under belly pan is fully efficient? would it be a good idea to "modify" or add ducts of my own? anyone around here do so?
Originally Posted by Turbo II
When I put the tray back on my turbo I noticed temps went down.
i wish i had a hydraulic lift to go under the car and try to sort things out... shoot what am i talking about? i don't even have jack stands =X
you think the stock under belly pan is fully efficient? would it be a good idea to "modify" or add ducts of my own? anyone around here do so?
and if you can go to the local autuparts store and they are now selling the ricer intake kits,pipes,couplins,hoses..etc
1-locate their air funnels with the flexible 3 ft hose ....put it in a good location ...connect the hose i think its 2.50 and pull it to the filter element...note if you have a airbox even better
2-just like LIL RED said that plastic under belly works a lot or you can custom make one...there was a thread on here a guy made one out of a mold of cardboard and fiberglass
3-do a full system flush on your coolant/ oil change
4-heat wrap your downpipe
remeber you can get all the cold air in the world in your engine compartment but you will need it to come out so start looking for the nice vented hood...good luck bro i hope i helped out
1-locate their air funnels with the flexible 3 ft hose ....put it in a good location ...connect the hose i think its 2.50 and pull it to the filter element...note if you have a airbox even better
2-just like LIL RED said that plastic under belly works a lot or you can custom make one...there was a thread on here a guy made one out of a mold of cardboard and fiberglass
3-do a full system flush on your coolant/ oil change
4-heat wrap your downpipe
remeber you can get all the cold air in the world in your engine compartment but you will need it to come out so start looking for the nice vented hood...good luck bro i hope i helped out
I wrapped my own downpipe with heat wrap from www.speedmachineperformance.com
It is under Heatshiels products and cost about 50$. Just have some gloves and goggles when you put it on or you will get fiberglass all over ya. Also get the metal zip ties from the same store.
It is under Heatshiels products and cost about 50$. Just have some gloves and goggles when you put it on or you will get fiberglass all over ya. Also get the metal zip ties from the same store.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Summit also sells heatwrap, not sure of cost though.
Also, I don't know about where you live, but its a hell of a lot hotter at 9 PM than at 9 AM. At 9am its barely into the 80s, while its still in the high 90's at 9 PM.
Also, I don't know about where you live, but its a hell of a lot hotter at 9 PM than at 9 AM. At 9am its barely into the 80s, while its still in the high 90's at 9 PM.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
i'm from cali
yeah, i know it gets crazy hot in texas/arizona.. the high's are like what during the summer... 105ºF? 110ºF? i used to spend my summers in las vegas... it was ridiculous! 110º-120ºF... yikes
thanks for the heat wrap references... i'll definitely be saving up for them...
yeah, i know it gets crazy hot in texas/arizona.. the high's are like what during the summer... 105ºF? 110ºF? i used to spend my summers in las vegas... it was ridiculous! 110º-120ºF... yikes
thanks for the heat wrap references... i'll definitely be saving up for them...
Get an NA!! Haha, I've been waiting my whole rx-7 life for that.
Seriously, just to reiterate, consider and fmic, heat wrapping exhaust, running less boost, and def put the bottom tray back on.
Seriously, just to reiterate, consider and fmic, heat wrapping exhaust, running less boost, and def put the bottom tray back on.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Originally Posted by ePH C freak
i'm from cali
yeah, i know it gets crazy hot in texas/arizona.. the high's are like what during the summer... 105ºF? 110ºF? i used to spend my summers in las vegas... it was ridiculous! 110º-120ºF... yikes
thanks for the heat wrap references... i'll definitely be saving up for them...
yeah, i know it gets crazy hot in texas/arizona.. the high's are like what during the summer... 105ºF? 110ºF? i used to spend my summers in las vegas... it was ridiculous! 110º-120ºF... yikes
thanks for the heat wrap references... i'll definitely be saving up for them...