I WANT consistency darn it!

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Jul 19, 2006 | 06:49 PM

#26

Sideways7

Lives on the Forum

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From: Temple, Texas (Central)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sar

Get an NA!! Haha, I've been waiting my whole rx-7 life for that.

LOL Nice.
I think theres a top cover as well. I don't have one but I know theres some companies that make them.

Jul 19, 2006 | 11:33 PM

#27

eriksseven

Make Money.

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From: Seattle

FMIC would do a lot to help prevent heatsoak. I think all of us turbo owner know what you're going through (especially with the stock TMIC).

Sometimes when I'm going to work early in the morning I can't wait to get on that freeway on-ramp and rip through the gears.

I know it's the one good session I can count on throughout the day...

Jul 23, 2006 | 10:15 PM

#28

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

^ got that right!

hey guys, any pics of the underbelly pan? i have all the plastic stuff sittin' on the sidelines and i do not know where each piece goes! what i need is a good picture of the underbelly pan installed...

i did a search to try to find pics, but the threads that had them were out-dated (2002-2003) and instead of loading the pictures, it shows that little box with the red X inside...

oh yeah, and it's not in the FSM...

Last edited by ePH C freak; Jul 23, 2006 at 10:25 PM.

Jul 25, 2006 | 01:04 PM

#29

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

anyone (who has the underbelly pan) here wanna take a picture underneath the car?

buMP

Jul 25, 2006 | 01:17 PM

#30

Fitness Stain

Yar-Har-Har

Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 1,954

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From: Nashville, 37217

i wish someone would make a replacement underbelly pan ... for a reasonable price

wheni bought my fc it wasnt there

i dont really have coolingissues, but i do notice the difference in temp with how the car reacts ...

Jul 25, 2006 | 02:04 PM

#31

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

i think there's a thread on an aluminum underbelly pan that someone is producing...

yeah, i don't have cooling issues either, but i'd like to atleast run COOLER

Jul 26, 2006 | 02:17 PM

#32

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

anyone with a picture of it?? all i need is a picture taken from underneath the car pointing at the underbelly pan...

a fellow buddy of mines/rx7club member is offering to install the pan for me, but i don't want to trouble him for doing so...

anyone?

Jul 26, 2006 | 02:39 PM

#33

zeromage428

BWAAA

Joined: Jan 2004

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From: sofla-this isnt naxxramas

theres a diagram in b/w of the whole car in the fsm that i can remember that shows the underbelly tray.

not sure of where it is in the fsm, but shouldnt be too hard to find

Jul 26, 2006 | 03:03 PM

#34

My5ABaby

Rotaries confuse me

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From: Murfreesboro, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by ePH C freak

It's a big plastic thing that you hold against the bottom of the car and put ~10 small bolts into. Not that complicated.

Jul 26, 2006 | 05:36 PM

#35

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

i'm not too sure of which is the front and the rear of the bellypan because i can't seem to line up the holes to where it bolts on... which is why i'd like a picture of it installed...

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeromage428

theres a diagram in b/w of the whole car in the fsm that i can remember that shows the underbelly tray.

not sure of where it is in the fsm, but shouldnt be too hard to find

what d'ya mean by "b/w" ?

Jul 27, 2006 | 07:18 AM

#36

My5ABaby

Rotaries confuse me

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From: Murfreesboro, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by ePH C freak

i'm not too sure of which is the front and the rear of the bellypan because i can't seem to line up the holes to where it bolts on... which is why i'd like a picture of it installed...

what d'ya mean by "b/w" ?

I didn't think you could conceivably put it on backwards... but I guess so.

b/w = Black and White

Jul 27, 2006 | 12:16 PM

#37

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

b/w could mean alotta things in my vocab hehe...

alright, so i'll go ahead double check the FSM when i get home from work. i've got the 86-88 FSM... maybe it's only in the 89-91 FSM?

Jul 27, 2006 | 12:36 PM

#38

Wankel7

Haven't we ALL heard this

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 3,948

Likes: 1

From: Indiana

If you heat wrap your exhaust....just use hose clamps to hold on the wrap...cheaper than the metal ties and reusable.

James

Jul 27, 2006 | 02:55 PM

#39

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

^ cooL, i'll definite take that input into consideration... and by exhaust i assume you mean down pipe?

Jul 13, 2007 | 05:38 PM

#40

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

one year LATER!!! (almost)

alright guys... so let's see here... i'm still running the same set-up (Rtek 1.7, stock TMIC, 3"DP, 2.5" cat back, stock ports....)

anyway, i seem to be puzzled with my FC's performance... it seems to be PULLING HARD after the engine's been running under the hot sun for around 30-45 minutes. when i'm thinking it'll be sluggish from the "heatsoak", it actually pulls AMAZINGLY! the boost peaks at around 0.4 bar and NEVER GOES HIGHER (no boost controller, no boost creep).

i'm thinking TIMING is the factor. my car usually idles at around 1100-1300 rpm, but under looong drives under the sun, the idle will hold under 1000 RPM at a stop, and it seems that when the car idles under 1000, it performs THE WAY IT SHOULD! and puts a smile on my face when i'm "on the gun" (it pulls very nicely from low-end to high-end)... it only seems that the throttle is ALOT MORE SENSITIVE, and shows signs of power while only feathering the gas pedal.

i find that situation only occuring during the day when it's somewhat hot outside...

at night, i've never felt those type of pulls (and i expect it to be somewhat FASTER at night when the intake temps are cooler) and the idle can't get any lower than 1000 RPM. the throttle feels alot "heavier" too...

it's to my understanding that when idling at 1100+ RPM, the ECU will retard (or advance, correct me if i'm wrong) timing a few degrees? whereas, if idling near factory spec (around 700RPM), the timing will be "where it's supposed to be"?

i'm thinking that when my idle's down below 1000 rpm, the timing is ALOT MORE aggressive than when idling above 1000RPM...

does that sound silly? anyone wanna give some thought/input?

*let me add that when i experience those hard pulls, the pulls are so hard that it feels like the engine might blow or something (only because i don't usually feel pulls like that in my car!)

Jul 13, 2007 | 05:42 PM

#41

classicauto

Crash Auto?Fix Auto.

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From: Hagersville Ontario

Timing will not change at a given idle speed.

Chances are you've got a vac leak or a sticky TB thats causing the high idle and no matter where it idles, the timing will not change.

Actually, let me re-phrase. The timing curve itself will not change. The timing curve might be different between idle and 1100rpm, but the actual curve will be the same.

Jul 13, 2007 | 05:44 PM

#42

ePH C freak

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From: So. CaL

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

Chances are you've got a vac leak or a sticky TB thats causing the high idle and no matter where it idles, the timing will not change.

that you are right.... it is OBVIOUS that i have a vacuum leak (when car's warming up, the idle fluctuates up and down)

so a vacuum leak can do THAT MUCH HARM? as to being sluggish at one point, to being "pretty darn fast"?

well, i may have sticky throttle plates as well... but thanks classicauto! i should get to the bottom of it ASAP

Jul 13, 2007 | 08:23 PM

#43

RotaMan99

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Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 1,791

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From: New Hampshire

Quote:

even with my fully modified cooling system, engine, wiring and ducting i really notice the heat soak factor. i'm sure a true CAI would help this but the big factor is the heat soak factor, the only way around it is some major ducting/cooling changes to keep the engine bay cool.

Happends to my engine too and the ONLY reason is does is due to heat soaking.