2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

I think it's either the Alternator or Battery...

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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #1  
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Cool I think it's either the Alternator or Battery...

Hey guys, I've searched this problem and think I have it narrowed down but I'd really appreciate the input you guru's have.

'88 base with Racing Beat Dual Pulley Alternator...

Problem: I went to start the car after class today and it seemed like the battery was dead. You know, the real slow turning of the motor, dim idiot lights, etc. However, it DID start. I left the car sit overnight last night and it got pretty cold here; when I went to start it this morning it fired up almost instantly when I turned the key. I'm wondering why it had such a problem after sitting for only an hour during class?

Once before it sat for a little more than a day and when I went to start it, it turned over and over and over. It seemed like it was flooded. I did all of the de-flooding procedures to no avail. When I got a jump it started right up.

Things I've tested: I tested the battery with a multimeter (car off) and it read 12.8 V
With the car on and the defrost on high, it read 13.9 V.

Would this be indicative of an alternator failure? I previously read on here a while ago how to test the alternator, but if somebody could give me a refresh on it that would be spectacular.

Things I'll do: I'm going to clean the battery terminals and sand both the terminals and connections to get a good, solid connection.

If it IS the alternator, does anybody know where I can get another one? I went to Racing Beat's website and there wasn't any Alternator listings. I'd like to keep the dual pulley (seems like everyone recommends that) so going to Advance (crap) or Frank's (crappier) isn't really the best option for me. I'd like to get the best out there (for my needs) so this doesn't happen again in 6 months.

Sorry for the long post, and thank you for your help!!

-Ian
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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it does sound like the alternator. What does your volt gauge read while running with a load? Mine has been getting really bad also. I to have been unable to find a new one online. the pulley you can just change to the new one. I would like to know if there is a high output one available for our cars. Mine is a s5 though. Sorry not really helpfull but i also would like some answers as to where to get a new one.

Last edited by siguy2k; Dec 3, 2007 at 05:34 PM. Reason: cant spell lol
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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to check if its the alternator start the car, when its running, remove the negative end of the battery. if it dies, then its the alternator. just go to your local autoparts store for a rebuilt alternator. My alternator broke - - - voltage dropped and car just shut off when i was in th middle of the road. i bought a rebuilt alternator at autozone with a lifetime warranty. good luck on fixing your problem!
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by macsrx7
With the car on and the defrost on high, it read 13.9 V.

Would this be indicative of an alternator failure?
No, it indicates the alternator is working fine. A healthy alternator should be able to get over 14V with no load on it, which it sounds like yours can.

I previously read on here a while ago how to test the alternator, but if somebody could give me a refresh on it that would be spectacular.
You've done it.

How old is the battery? If it's more than three years old or you can't remember ever replacing it, then get a new one.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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thanks guys for the reply's...

it wouldn't start at all this morning...

i'm thinking it's also the battery but i will try that test (taking off the negative terminal)...

-Ian
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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Sureshot's basic VOLTAGE TEST
Engine running, headlights & heater fan on high:
Alternator post to alternator frame = around 14 volts (verifies the alternator output)
alternator post to battery (+) = 0 volts (verifies the primary + wire)
alternator frame to battery (-) = 0 volts (verifies the primary ground)
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery (+) to battery (-) = ~12.5 volts and holds steady. (verifies battery)
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 12:42 AM
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Im having the same problem... did you ever figure out what was wrong with it?
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 01:48 AM
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jesus just get a new battery.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
jesus just get a new battery.
Qtf.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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You proved there's nothing wrong with the alternator when you saw the 13.9 with the engine running and a load on the alternator.

Why would anybody think he has a bad alternator??????? Odd at best

Follow a couple of steps in the FSM.....key to ON, engine off. Backprobe the WHITE/BLACK wire on the alternators small connector. It should read about 3vdc. Now start the engine. Now that wire will read approx 14vdc.

No sense doing that. You already saw 13.9 with engine running and a load on the alternator.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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before it sat for a little more than a day and when I went to start it, it turned over and over and over. It seemed like it was flooded. I did all of the de-flooding procedures to no avail. When I got a jump it started right up.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** *******************************************

This does not sound like a alternator problem. MAYBE a insufficient battery combined with flooding and possibly but not that likely a dragging starter??
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