Hello all. I have been up since 7am trying to get my car started and have used the search to get some helpful clues but still nothing. I have disconnected the ECU. nothing. Disconnected the fuel from the inside of the car, nothing. Changed the battery to see if I may have lost some power from trying to start it so many times, nothing. There is a lot of wetness on the outside of one of the lower plugs.

Im going to try the ATF trick next and as I was reading through the haynes manual it says that I will be needing quite a few tools to remove and install the spark plugs. Is all that really necessary? I have never replaced spark plugs before. I can fit my hand down there just fine to remove the plugs. Also, when I let the ATF sit over night, do I replace the spark plugs after I get it started or before I attempt to start it?

I could take it to a shop and just let them do it but so far I have been able to find all the answers I need here and the few times I go to a shop I usually have to tell them what is what. This is the first car that I have ever worked on so feel free to talk on a 1st grade level.

 

You need to replace the spark plugs with new ones - your current ones are most likely fouled. ATF it, let the "old" plugs dry off (leave 'em sitting around for a while), replace the plugs, and start it up.

Brandon

 

How hard is it to change the plugs? Do I need all the tools mentioned in the manual?

 

To swap plugs all you need is a spark plug socket, 13/16 I *think* (I have not looked at the size in about a year...) and a socket wrench. Pretty straight forward. Just unscrew the old ones, and screw in the new ones. You have to get new ones if you do the ATF trick. Also, try looking in front of the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay. You will see a black box, with stuff like "30A" written on it. Pull off the top. Remove the little block in the 30A spot. Now, with it out, crank the engine. Put the fuse back in, and try cranking it.

 

I typed ECU But Meant EGI. I already tried that but did notice that the 30A Head fuse is in upside down. Does that matter? Are there any fuses inside the car that may solve the problem.

It has been over 6mos since Ive had any problems starting the car and removing the EGI fuse trick usually works but yesterday I had to find out why my fuel pump belt kept snapping and the car was started and shut off 3 times without letting it warm up. And then this problem began! UGH!!!

 

Try unhooking the power from the fuel pump in the passenger side rear strut tower. Blue wire I beleive. Last time I flooded, I removed the plugs and the 30A fuse, and cranked it till the battery ran down, then jumped it, put the plugs and fuse back in, and it started right up (along with billowing out enough white smoke to eat a hole in the ozone!!)

 

Thanks! I'll go try right now.

 

Good luck!! It is ALWAYS a pain to unflood a rotary. Hence why I installed a fuel cut switch!!

 

When I have a flooding problem, I can usually get it going in less than 2 minutes. This time it has really got me.

 

Question? Can I just disconnect the spark plugs by hand?

 

Yes. Just grab the boot and pull.

 

Well I finally got it started after missing 2 days of work. We ended up changing the sparkplugs, nothing. Switched to a fully charged battery, nothing. Sprayed starter fluid into the ports and after about 15 minutes, WA LA! a running car.

I let it run for 20 minutes and then drove it a few miles. Came home, parked it, finished tightening up a few things, swept out the garage, etc... went and started it up and it fired right away.

Thanks a bunch!

Lilmomma

 

it's a pain to unflood rotaries? I think mine flooded... 4 times maybe since I've owned it.. pull the fuel injectors fuse... turn it over 5 seconds.. put fuse back in..
BAM starts right up.. at least mine does
I must just be cool oh yea

 

Yeah that usually works but not this time. Anyway, It's running fine now.