2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

i think i f#@$d my engine...

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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 12:46 PM
  #1  
Peruvianrx7's Avatar
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i think i f#@$d my engine...

hey guys i did a compression check... but all i did was remove the top spark plugs and wires and put my pressure gauge there... i forgot to disconnect the CAS and the fuel system plug.. i heard weird fast revolutions... i started the car again and it idles and it pulls hard then i turned it off then on then off then on and it started everytime with out my foot on the gas... the engine has 2000 miles on it.. you think it shoudl be okey? my numbers were 50 front 50 rear...
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 12:48 PM
  #2  
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From: houston
thats confusing.... LIMA PERU! :-p
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 12:53 PM
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pull the EGI fuse and then do your test.

Push the gas to the floor and crank it.

Top plug is fine for tests. I've used both spots and the results were the same.

50 is seriously low. I mean not going to run low.

Was that cumulative or on each rotor face?

Last time I checked my rebuild I had 65 on each rotor face and about 85 cumulative.

My numbers are still VERY questionable and I have yet to do another test since I'm too afraid to see the results.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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From: Gainesville, FL
ALEX you test compression on leading plug not trailing. coem down to fc garage and ill test it for you tommorow
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #5  
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You think u fucked your enigne???? OH NO! 3 things to check for: 1) is she loose now? 2) Are You Okay? 3) check for STD's
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:01 PM
  #6  
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Better do that test again. As stated above, if 50 & 50 car has some serious problems if you have 2000 miles on the engine.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:02 PM
  #7  
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title updated.. no profanity in thread titles!
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:18 PM
  #8  
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If you didnt block open the throttle, or
hit the gas pedal while doing the compression test,
the engine will have nothing to compress, thus
you WILL get a low reading. Just unplug the
crank angle sensor, pull the EGI fuse in the
engine bay panel, disconnect the top plugs
and wires. But make sure you have a good battery
and good tight conections, also warm the car up
for about 10 minutes first. Make sure you remove
the shrader valve from your compression tester.
Then your all set
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 02:14 PM
  #9  
ilike2eatricers's Avatar
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From: bay area
Originally Posted by gergrx7
ALEX you test compression on leading plug not trailing. coem down to fc garage and ill test it for you tommorow
Care to explain the difference? I have heard either T or L is fine.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 04:51 PM
  #10  
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From: Gainesville, FL
well i always do it in leading since there is a bigger hole. it jsut makes sense to me that it would work better.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 05:14 PM
  #11  
Aesop Rock's Avatar
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From: Lower NY
Originally Posted by JDUBrx7
You think u fucked your enigne???? OH NO! 3 things to check for: 1) is she loose now? 2) Are You Okay? 3) check for STD's
.....Newb
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #12  
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From: OC
Originally Posted by Aesop Rock
.....Newb
i thought it was funny...
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 05:38 PM
  #13  
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From: Rapid City, SD
Originally Posted by rs_1101
i thought it was funny...
newb




















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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #14  
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From: Saint Louis
buddy if you have 50psi for compression, you did F*#^ your engine b/c mine is at 70 and it won't start. if anyone thinks mine should start and knows how i can start it plz PM me *not thread jacking* (do not post b/c i'm not threadjacking)
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