i think i f*cked it up
#1
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i think i f*cked it up
ok last night i removed all of the emissions,(air pump, vac rack, seliniods, air control valve and all that stuf) well while i was working on it the alternator g\fell and arced out on the engine. it blew the 100amp main fuse, after replacing the fuse i proceeded to finish up and start the car, after i got the car started the air fuel gauge quit working, so i unpluged it and conected the sensing wire to just the o2 sensor, it seem to wrk off of the o2 but as soon as i plugged ion the wire for the computer the air fuel shuts off, than if i unplug the wire to the o2(the one that goes to the comp) it will shot stoich. did i cook my computer or what, i dont know what happened. this is my daily driver so if anyone outhere can give me a idea or something, i am needing to travel 200 miles tomorrow. pls help oh yea the car is a 1989 tII
#2
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This is why disconnecting the battery is always the first step in any car work in the manuals, lol...
OK, now that I've pissed you off, grounding that charging cable is just as bad as grounding the positive battery cable- they're the same circuit, basically...Which means, before the fuse blew, you might have fried a computer somewhere, so start with the obvious polarity sensitive equipment that controls the things that aren't working...
For what it's worth, that alt cable shorting happens to a lot of guys
OK, now that I've pissed you off, grounding that charging cable is just as bad as grounding the positive battery cable- they're the same circuit, basically...Which means, before the fuse blew, you might have fried a computer somewhere, so start with the obvious polarity sensitive equipment that controls the things that aren't working...
For what it's worth, that alt cable shorting happens to a lot of guys
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the only thing that seems not to be working is the air fuel, once you hook up the gauge to the line to the computer it doesnt show anything. thani fyou hook up the o2 to the gause it show some signs of life but once you hook up the line from the comp it doesnt show anything on the gauge
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ok well if i knew how to pull the codes i would but i think i found the cel problem the water temp sensor was unpluged. now i need info on what people think about the computer?????
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ok i just got back from my test ride, the car runs good but idels about 300 rpm low, i lost about 2 pounds of boost and about 2 pounds of vacume, it does sounds like i have a small vacume leak when i hit the gas, which i know i need to find but could that affect all this other stuff or did i reall mess stuff up.....any info would be great...and yes i did search for info but i didnt find anything that was of help....thanks...
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#8
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Do a search on how to make a code checker light. Here are what the codes mean for s4 http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes88.html
Get starter fluid and spray around the engine bay where you think a vac leak may be and the idle should smooth out while the car is running.
Get starter fluid and spray around the engine bay where you think a vac leak may be and the idle should smooth out while the car is running.
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the inner wire is grounded and the ouside wire is not connected to anything and i dont know about it. ill go check but should the inner be grounded... i need this fixed