I had my 1990 N/A 'vert in the shop and the following was performed:

• Removed Lower Intake to Replace Fuel Dampener
• New Pulsation Dampener installed
• New purge valve installed
• Ran New Vacuum Lines
• Replaced Fuel injector O Rings

and now the car which was leak free is leaking out a fair amount of coolant!!

i got under the car and it is dripping from the shroud that wraps around in front of the oil pan. any ideas on what could be causing this??????

 

Why don't u take it back to the dealer???.....
How long ago did u get it back from dealer???

 

They broke one of my A-pillar trim pieces when they replaced my seatbelts. And according to them "it was like that when I brought it in". .

 

I got it back last night, but they cant take the car in till monday when i get off work at 330, and I NEED to have my rx7 mobile ASAP, hence my inquiry here.

 

yeah there are water lines under there. they either split a hose or didnt tighten it down or something like that. if a shop kept messing up my car, i would stop going there.

 

its just such a dissappointment to not be able to drive my car after spending all that money to get it fixed. come monday hell hath no fury.

 

just don't let them try and screw you over and say it wasn't their fault, they WILL try and charge you for repairs regardless of fault.

ask to see faulty parts after the fact for proof.

you may or may not be surprised at how shady some dealers can be.

 

O I know their game already. , I also own a VW, now you wanna talk about bad service departments, me and the Bureau of Automotive rapair reps are good friends. Sad thing is the Mazda dealer is on the same big car lot as the VW one.

 

My boss has a GMC sonoma, low mileage. Took it last week to get a tune up. New plugs, filters, etc. He got it back smoking bad, running on 7 cyl. They claim that a valve must have gone bad, when they had it, with nothing to do with them. Friday he took it to an independant shop who borescoped it reveiling a large hole in the piston, and some head damage . Pulled the pan and found a mashed bolt and chunks of the piston.

The dealer has flat refused to cover the damage, with the service manager saying he won't get a dime.

 

My Mazda dealer (Marina mazda in Capitola) backed my brand new Miata into a UPS truck right in front of where I was sitting. Needless to say, I don't go there for anything but parts anymore.

 

Every time I go to a dealership I see more and more reasons to work on my car myself...

Some of them are nice, at least.

 

Godamn!

 

yea i had the same thing happen to me.. i took my car to them before.. and suppose to get a tune up .. but they didn't do crap... took it the whole day.. and still didn't finish on it... suppose to change plugs,belts, adjust timing valve job, all the fluids flushed and rotate tires.. only thing they did was change the oil, belts and that was it.. didn't even rotate the tires! i could tell because i had some crappy rims on... never bring your car to the dealers they'll rip your *** off... and plug you a new hole while they at it.. lol

 

so....what are the names of the hoses down in my problem area so i know what to go raise hell about

 

as far as i remember, the only coolant lines there are ones running to the BAC (bypass air control) valve and thermopellet, and they pass through the throttle body casing.

 

the water pump

 

how much does a waterpump replacement cost?

 

No idea... I would never take my car in to the dealer to find out. I'd just do the work myself

 

how difficult is the water pump replacement for one to do themselves? Is it easily accessible?

 

Take off the fan shroud, fan, hoses (drain the coolant), belts, then unbolt it.

 

Have to remove the main pulley bolts, at least I had to. It's not hard at all really. Before you do that though. Check to make sure your lower radiator hose is clamped really really well. Onto the housing, I thought I had my heater leaking but it was the lower rad hose was loose because its so damn hard to get to. More than likely if you change the pump though. You'll need gaskets for the housing and the pump.

 

buy a haynes manual and check the FSM on here. the water pump is a fairly straight forward replacement. just remember to get new gaskets a new t-stat would be good to while your in there.

 

You need to go look first and figure out where the water is leaking from exactly. You don't just go and start replacing parts to figure out the problem unless you are a Mazda Dealer mechanic

 

i think i know which coolant line is the problem...

middle iron to LIM... its a PITA to install, and i bet 1euro that they didn't tighten this bitch

 

WHat the hell are you talking about. Middle iron only has what the oil filler neck and egr or blocked off. Theres the rear iron that has a line coming out.