i really have been think about bridgeporting my s5 na 6 port, i do have all 4 port houseings but if i use those houseings i want to use my na rotors.
what im debating is carb, or full standalone. im leaning more on carb side but i want some more imput on that if i do go standalone im going to use halteck e8 but im not sure on injector size i should go with, but im not sure which carb i should use either
i want to make around 250rwhp all motor

my biggest concern is how long will it last i dont want to spend the money if it wont last more than 30,000 miles and i here they will last by some people and wont by others

i know all about the loudness and street ability not a problem for me on this build

 

As hard as it is to imagine, a carb will give you even less gas mileage but I suppose it will be cheaper until that catches up with you.

I don't see why you would worry about how long it's going to last. Bridgeports are for race cars so if you want to put one in a street car, that usually means it's going to be a weekend warrior. You're not thinking of a DD bp, right?

 

yeah i just going use it on weekends and gas milage was the last thing on my mind lol
i dont want to spend the money to port it if im going to have to rebuild every 2 months
i would prefer to carb it but what carb would be good for a bridge port

 

Well in that case 30k miles is at least a few years.

You would be looking at a large carb. Maybe a holley 750.. just guessing.

 

true i just want to make sure it will last with abuse
would carbon apex seals be best to use?
and should i use my 4 port housings or 6 port

 

Mileage with bridgeports is poor regardless of whether it is carbureted or EFI. EFI is slightly better but you can't fight physics. High overlap engines are inefficient at low RPM.

Carbureted bridgeports are a ***** to tune and run like crap. EFI makes almost all of the bridgeport "bad press" go away.

As long as the cuts are properly done, engine life won't be impacted.

NA bridgeports on the street seem like a waste of time to me. By the time you have corked the exhaust enough so that you can actually hear yourself think, you've cut all the power.

 

for exhaust i was thinking corksport header, 3in straight out from there
but i stay fuel injected what size injectors would i need and where could i get a custom intake manifold or would i have to have a new manifold

 

That will be stupid loud. Loud enough to be banned from most tracks, let alone drive on the street.

550CC injectors all the way around should do it.

As for the custom intake, that's harder. You'll probably want a 4 port lower designed for a Weber, and then a set of ITBs (TweakIt) for the upper. Then you will need to make an appropriate airbox.

 

sould i use my 6 port housings or my 4 port i have both
and anything else i should do internal other carbon apex seals
and the intake part is the only other part i need to firgure could i use my stock throtle body
and this a dumb question but the stock il pressure would be high enough right

 

4 port.

Don't use carbon apex seals.

You can't use the stock throttle body unless you custom make an intake to handle it.

Stock oil pressure is probably fine, but why not shim your regulator when you build the engine?

 

that is a good point on the oil pressure
and i will use my 4 port housings but what apex seals and im staying 2mm

 

if you're keeping the RPM under 8500-9000 use the stock ones, if the rotors are good, seals and springs are NEW and clearanced right, 10k has been done.

use the FD oil pressure regulator its $25 new

use the 4 port housings, if you cut the bridge into the water jacket enough to have to cut the water seal, that will be the point of failure, generally they will start to leak water there, but you get 2-3 years of driving

if you wanna carb it, the RB holley offers better potentially better streetability, as you can cruise around on 2 barrels, you want about a 750cfm. carb is MORE expensive, as you need to buy the carb, intake, fuel pump, regulator and JETS, which add up.

if you want EFI then go with the weber style intake and TWM/tweakit ITB's. 4x550 injectors should be about right

corksport header is fine, but i'd run http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-Perf...tNumber=16425P that in the middle, and your choice of muffler in the rear.

 

The carb stuff would add up to be more than efi even after a haltech and the tune?
That makes it look entirely stupid to go carb...

 

thanks alot for all the help now i just go to build it which im hoping to have it all done around christmas

 

think about it.

you buy carb+fuel pump + regulator + jets + intake manifold.

with EFI a lot of the time you get to reuse the fuel pump, injectors and stuff.

you can't just compare the cost of the carb (or ecu) by itself, you have to look at the total cost to make it run the car instead of being a paper weight.

for example. on my PP i ran a weber, cause i'm cheap and i already had the weber. i bought it for $450, i bought jets, em tubes, venturi's, and a rebuild kit ($240), fuel pump $80 regulator $50

total = 450+240+80+50= 820

$820 is not "cheap"

and of course with EFI you can tune by pushing a button, a carb you have to order more jets which take a day or two to get.

nothing wrong with the carb per say, but its just not the best solution when you look at money vs time vs results

 

how much fuel pressure would someone need to run a NA 13b bridge?

 

I would also add to shimming the regulator, the three window main bearing from the FD wouldn't be a terrible idea either.

 

I have 2 projects on the street right now running bridgys carb setups and they run fine,start up fine,idle fine and they are daily driven.One is running a Holley 650 double pump with mechanical secondaries and the other a down draft 48 webber and like i said they do run fine,it took a while 2 get the rite tune but they run with no problems at all so it can be done.Now fuel injection is better,you can get more power out of the motor adjust your timing properly,split timing,better fuel control ect.ect so if you can afford it go EFI.