RAWRX7

I am looking to do a rebuild on my 86 N/A and am torn on what brand Apex seals to go with.
Please give me you stories

djessence

Mazda seals are way underrated. Last a long time, can handle a decent amount of boost (which doesnt matter in your case). Good seals.

Havent heard anything bad about atkins, and actually have a set to put in my rebuild pretty quick

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

both are very good seals, but you can't get any better than OEM seals IMO

lduley

iTrader: (1)

RA seals don't SOUND bad, haven't owned an RX with them in the motor

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

i believe Atkins are cheaper but oem are said to be the better seal.

Longshoe

iTrader: (2)

RA seals are supposed to be highly resistant to detonation, but chew up housings. Im running Atkins 2pc but only because they were cheaper than oem.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

FYI: RA = Rotary Aviation, not Atkins Rotary

One thing people have faced with Atkins seals is that they may expand slightly and or simply start out longer than the housings are wide, sometimes leading to engine failure. This can be completely avoided if you clearance your seals instead of just dropping them in, assuming that they are the correct dimensions. Just yesterday I clearanced my OEM seals to be about .002" smaller than my housings and I had to take off about .0024" to get them at the spec I wanted (for a turbo build). If I had just dropped them in even those may have done some damage.

willub and company

iTrader: (3)

OEM all the way!

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

If you're using semi-worn housings, I would personally go with Atkins. They're a lot cheaper, they're proven AND they're "softer" then OEM seals so they will break-in quicker.

If I were building a turbo engine with new housings I would use OEM or RA super's.

RAWRX7

what about Pinapple racing Apex seals?
anyone?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Did you search? I doubt this has never been asked before.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thats about how I feel (except that I would never use RA seals). Atkins break in easier and could seal a little better on worn housings, but ultimately won't last as long as OEM's. When you start with used housings, the housings will probably give out before the apex seals get too worn. When you start with new housings, spend the extra cost to the the OEM's as they will last the life of the engine. I had 215k on my engine and the seals were still decent when it was torn down for a coolant seal failure, and that was the old 3 piece seals.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

they are both good seals but for an N/A I would just go with OEM unless your doing any kind of porting. I'm in the process of building a motor. I went with SCR seals but I'm planning on running with high boost

RAWRX7

This build will be from a used block that had a coolant passage that blew out on me. I have all ready replaced the rear iron that was blown. All the other parts are in good condition and will be used.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

People have had mixed results using RA seals, but they ARE very, very strong... I recently tore down an engine with RA seals, and there were three shattered corner-seals sitting peacefully in their slots, but no cracked or shattered apex-seals. Good insurance for saving a rotor, housing and turbo in the event of catastrophic detonation.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Perhaps on the short term, as people have found they tear up housings quickly compared with the use of OEM or AR seals.

twinratboys

its best to go with oems

fastrotaries

I'd go with what's cheaper. They're both going to net you A TON of MILES!!!!