tweaked

iTrader: (4)

I have been kinda bored with the forum lately. No one has posted anything really new.
I am working on on my 86 n/a all the time to squeexe every last bit of power aou of it before I oppen the motor to see what new things I can do there. Basicly I want to make everthing connected to the engine operate at the highest eficency possible. I want some new ideas.
Please post anything you may have thought of as long as you have good reason to think that it may accually work if enough time were spent on it.
My standard bolt on setup currently includes:
e-fan,
2.5" stainless mandrel bent tubing and dynomax muffler with RB header and presilencer.
ported intake manifold
Pinapple racing sleeves are ordered.
MSD 6AL with Accell Thundersport wires.
power steering but no a/c or air pump.
6 ports still functional for low end
timing advanced
K&N drop in filter but I have remanned the bottom of the air box for better flow by making it a velocity stack and air box in one
EGR gone
TB mod done
TII fuel pump on the list to get very soon.
Centerforce clutch system with slightly lightened flywheel

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

the things I though of, the crazy things, list is a little different
I have re-calabrated my air flow sensor using a a/f meter
I mentioned the air box thing above
When I ported the intake. I make it huge on the secondary ports, but I carved the ports in the lower on the engine side into velocity stacks too. I tried this on the primary (little ones in the middle of the block) but I dont think it was any more effective
I have ground the ground electrodes on the spark plugs for a slightly wider gap for the MSD. they also slant in like a fan blade. I also shaped them into something that lookes like a circle of this thing---- `----- only larger of course.
I have rewired the fuel pump with new relay with power coming straight from the alternator.
I have wraped the intake manifold in that heat wrap for headers to prevent any heat contaminating my intake charge. the header is also wraped
I am going to run new larger diameter fuel line all the way from the tank this week. i think
I run all straight synthetic from only the best. Mobile 1 and redline
adjustable fuel pressure regulator is on the list too
so is the ignition timing box for the turbos that lets you advance or retard timing up to 15 degrees in 500 RPM increments. I think everyone could benifit from this.
and that is it I am out of ideas. I can't port the MAF sensor, I tried on a spare. I have dreamed of an exhaust system that I could change the internat diameter for low RPM torque and to be quieter, you know, like a camera shutter, but I have no idea how to do it.

so gimmie what you got. I've run dry

Bridgeported

Remove (if u haven't already)
- air pump and system
- power steering system
- air conditioning system

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

talk to jimmy325i *supposedly* he has a 13 second NA...

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

13 is real good!!!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

thats why no one believes him

dr0x

Nitrous.

88IntegraLS

S5 Airflow meter, cold air inlet for your airbox if not already done, heat shield or heat wrap for header to avoid heating up your intake manifold, lightweight flywheel, supercharger, port existing air flow meter if not going to S5 version . . . .

88IntegraLS

I would warn against running any synthetic motor oil unless you have no oil metering pump and are running premix. When synthetic oil is injected into the combustion chambers, supposedly it leaves more deposits than non-synthetic oil. Judging by the looks of my NA engine that I am starting to disassemble, injecting any crankcase oil into the combustion cycle coats the rotors, apex seal grooves, and probably many other parts with flaky carbon deposits and synthetic oil is better at leaving a gummy residue when it is burned.

DJChunter

you want some power eh?? copy my set-up listed in my sig.. But with the bridge port.. i have yet to run this new setup but when i do i will bring this post back from the dead and let ya guys know..
Dave

TunedRunner

Do you need an AFC to use an s5 AFM?

search won't accept "s5"

Yeah, dump that OMP and use pre-mix.

DJChunter

no but you would need to run the S5 ECU and harness.. and yes i run premix in my car..
Dave

SilverT2

The standard S5 ECU will not run without the OMP connected. It will default into protect mode. You can however rewire the S4 Harness to accept the S5 AFM. I doubt you will see enough hp gains to go through the pain of rewireing your S4's harness. Your biggest Hp gains will be seen through porting and more fuel.

SureShot

I'm dreaming of a renesis crate engine, tranny and electronics package for when my 13b wears out.
9500 RPM - zoom zoom..

mazdaspeed7

Port your motor. Nothing else compares.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Still looking for a 10-sec, full-bodied, N/A Jason

RX7withNitrous

NITROUS!!!!!!!!!!!

Bambam7

Definately use an S-AFC to lean out the fuel mixture.
Dyno tuning can yield up to 15-20 more hp, in various places across the RPM range.
DON'T get the TII pump. its a waste of money- you won't need more fuel.
An N/A makes the most power with a much leaner ratio than a turbo... up to 14:1 at redline is tuned to the edge....

I strongly doubt the 6 ports are even opening- no backpressure.... how's that setup??
I'd get the pinapple sleeve inserts, then cut and port the sleeves themselves so they are very open- and re-insert them.... (with epoxy to lock them in place) ditch the actuators.
I hope the air pump is gone, and all emmisions.

Definatly use a cone filter, with a cold air box/divder in the engine compartment. I made a box, and sealed it up to a small, functional hood scoop (by GTS)- so it's a ram air. The difference in hot traffic off the line is remarkable. Much livelier without the heat soak.

Other than that... weight is free hp.

Rs4Racer

How much did s5 rotors cost you?

Project84

Someone call Nitrous? *breaks through wall like coolade man*

DJChunter

I bought a S5 motor at the junk yard for $125 and used the rotors when i rebuilt my S5 motor..
Dave