immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ok i just installed a megasquirt system in my car with an S5 13BTII the stock crank case gets venting by having a vacuum line going to the intake inlet before the turbo and the little restriction the stock AFM has allows for extra sucking from the crank case, now that i have no need for all the plumbing but still require a little amount of vacuum to help vent the crank case. i figured i would plumb it to the intake manifold but this created a big big prob sounds like it was sucking air from the rear housing i could hear it squeaking when having a load on the car. (i was using a check valve as well to prevent the crank case from getting pressurized when hitting boost) so what have you guys done to help fix this prob? or what could i do? im thinking some kind of valve to reduce the amount(volume) of vacuum is can suck???

arghx

iTrader: (3)

There is a nipple on the middle iron and a nipple on the oil filler. Connect them to a catch can, do not cap them off. Do not install the PCV valve. No vacuum is needed; under heavy load the internal crankcase pressure forces the vapor out.

problem solved.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

humm i dont have a prob under load its just at idle.... but i will try that thanks

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

How much smoke is it pushing out?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you're not going to have crankcase ventilation problems at idle unless you capped off the two vents I described. there just isn't enough crankcase pressure. As a test, what happens when you pull the dipstick out with the engine idling? That should significantly increase ventilation.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As we discussed last night:

-Run the nipple from the oil filler neck through a parts store PCV valve to a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold (use one of the big ones)

-Make a catch can with a filter on top

-Run a line from the middle iron nipple to the catch can

-You are done

Your car was probably smoking at idle due to the 11:1 AFRs.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ok ok i understand now, this way its drawing some vacuum from the crank case but getting most of its vac from the out side.

when this happens theres oil coming out from the front of the hot side, and the oil seal dumps the extra oil out as a way to keep the pressure down. i talked to the turbo builder cherry turbo and he explained to me what was going on there last year and when i installed it on my intake tube before the turbo with in 3 min of driving it cleared up and never smoked again. but ya that way of making an oil catch can will work TY for input guys im need to visualize

eage8

iTrader: (9)

hrm, I've never heard of this before. I just have my bottom one going to a catch can and the top one was capped until the cap fell off.... not it's vented to atmosphere

what nipple do you pipe it to? one in the rear of the tb? I only have 1 left back there, after 2 injector bleeds and my brake booster.

wait... you have an custom UIM don't you. where should normal people run it then?

something is wrong with my current set up... my oil smells far to much like gas for my liking.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The two nipples are there so that air can circulate through the engine. The lower nipple leads to a deep passage near the eccentric shaft. In the stock config, air is sucked into this deep passage, flows through the crankcase and then is drawn into the intake manifold via the filler neck nipple. It is best to preserve this stock system because it allows the crankcase to be properly purged of nasty due to the airflow.

You'd have to check which nipple is large and a vacuum source. From what I remember, all the nipples on the back (or at least the top two?) are fresh air lines. I always get those mixed up so I check the FSM everytime. You just need a constant vacuum source. A large nipple is nice so it doesn't get clogged. You could always drill and tap the intake manifold.

Same place I did; to a vacuum nipple.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

Well I think I might have figured out a solution use a fisj tabk valve to restrick tjhe air floew ans adjust as needed

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Why don't you just listen to the people who are telling you the correct way to do it insted of making a stupid complex system?

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

That's cause I have tried what was sayed with no luck. The turbo still smoking like crazy, plus loads of vac loss, if there's some thing I learnt is to do it wright the first time but in the case it don't seam to work with my turbonit could be the rebuilt kit from g pop shop might have waker oil seals the factory I don't know in any case its fixed ty for info and help

kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

bringing this one back for a quick quesiton
i'm pretty sure i'm having this same issue. i have the line on the oil filler neck running to the charcoal canister and then the nipple on the center iron is capped. if i run a catch can, what should i do with the empty spot on the charcoal canister? should this nipple get capped? and then is it best that i get a vented catch can and run both of these lines to it?

THANKS.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

If you're running a catch can you can remove the charcoal canister all together. And you can cap one port on the filler neck and run only one to the catch can. The second port on the catch can can either have a filter on it or a hose that points down for a vent.

I wouldn't run the PCV valve, the whole point of a catch can is to keep the engine from pulling excessive oil into the intake. The **** that collects in my catch can is an oil+water mixture (from condensation), not what I want going into the engine. The advantage of the PCV setup would probably be prolonged intervals of draining the oil from the catch can.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You should still have the lower nipple on the middle iron connected to a fresh air source, and the upper nipple connected to a vacuum line.

Connect the lower nipple to the catch can, then connect the charcoal canister to another port on the can. If you have a standalone, the can needs a filter to the atmosphere. If you have the stock ECU, you need to plumb a thick hose to after the air cleaner.

If you just cap the lower nipple, there is no air circulation through the engine and contaminates will build up.

I think I'll do a writeup on this since there is so much confusion.

xeccentric

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking forward to that write up. I'm still having trouble understanding how to install the catch can. Maybe some pictures to go with the writeup would work.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Why would you connect the charcoal canister to the catch can? lol...so you can run what are essentialy two catch cans? I suppose it would be the simplest way for someone who wants a catch can for the aesthetic purpose rather than the functional..

I have a $20 ebay catch can with one port connected to the filler neck (and the other capped) and one port on the catch can connected to a hose that points down. After 8000 miles the tank hasn't even filled up half way.

If you don't have emissions this is the easiest and most effective way to hook up your catch can.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The factory PCV setup has the charcoal canister T'd to the lower (or upper?) nipple on the middle iron. The charcoal canister and catch can serve two completely different purposes. While the charcoal canister accepts vapours from the fuel tank and then allows them to be drawn into the intake manifold to be burned, the catch can is there to catch all the oil junk that is forced out under boost and prevent it from ending up in the intake being burned.

I've added a catch can writeup to my list of things to do, but I don't know when it will go live.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

On the FD the charcoal canister related system (evap purge solenoid) and the PCV system (PCV valve on 92-94 engines, but removed in 95+) were separated in terms of plumbing. It seems like they were only combined in the FC out of convenience, and the fact that the charcoal canister flow is not controlled by a solenoid valve.