AdAm87TuRbO2

I really hate to post a question but I have searched for answers since the day I joined and I think I can use some help so here goes. I have an 87t2 the car hasnt been drove much in the last 10 years, less than 10k miles, 74k total. here is the problem. The car starts up and runs ok(way better than when I bought it) but any time I push the gas to the floor it spudders and rms's fall. I can feather it to redine, but no full throttle. I've fixed all the vaccum leaks I could find, changed plugs, wires Fuel filters, pulled off the exhaust, and cleaned my tank(rusty) tested afm, replaced tps, injector resistor and have like 90+ compression, nothing fixes my problem. The car runs stupid rich it burns your eyes to stand near it and flames are shooting from my turbo. Im kinda stuck on ideas. I orginally thought injectors, but im not really sure if they would cause this. what do you guys think? sorry so long

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Interesting... Possible you have a malfunctioning injector..]

Have you scanned for ECU codes?

Crionics

Have you adjusted TPS and done a tune-up?

AdAm87TuRbO2

You know, you think I would have done that but I havent had time to make the tester, it it hard?

Oh yea the car likes to flood, I dont know If it's just the extra fuel that it's not burning, or if it floods while sitting.

I may get a list of stuff and go to radio shack tonight.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Making the ECU tester? ITs unbelievably easy..

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

sounds like you car is in limp mode, same thing happened to me, ground the little single wire green plug next to your battery, your CEL should blink according to the code number. I cant find the code list, i know its on 1300CC.com,

AdAm87TuRbO2

I'll get on that. the fuel filters were plugged with rust, so does a messed up injector sound logical?

Cronics, I did a tune up and have a brand new, adjusted tps

It's an s4 no CEL

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I know that..

Here ya go:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

oops, my bad

AdAm87TuRbO2

Ok so I made the code checker, and I got a code2=afm
I tested mine and it was a little off, but the one I bought from Orielly's tested the same, the FSM says resistance should be between 200-600 fully closed, both were near 120, so were they both bad or ok?

What do I do now? Is the afm bad or will something else causing the code?

AdAm87TuRbO2

No Ideas?

AdAm87TuRbO2

I guess I will give it a bump

Amur_

You don't really need someone else to tell you to go get another AFM, do you? After all, it's not exactly inconceivable that you got your hands on two bad AFMs in a row...

AdAm87TuRbO2

No thats not it, One that I tested was brand new, thats what makes me wonder what could be causing this. I know it's possible that I got a new one that was bad, but could it be something else, like ecu? wiring? I guess I'm just looking for a direction to head. Thats all

Roy James

If you could get your hands on a pin-point test it would lead you int he right direction. As far as the AFM, I would trust the books, if they both read 120 and the book says 200, then get one that says 200. You are unpluging it when you test the resistance arnt you (not questioning your intellegence here, its just the only way i can think of two AFMs reading the same "bad" 120ohm resistance if ones new and ones old is if they were plugged up).

Maybe im just chasing my tail here, but check your timing.

cwsttu

holy **** i thought i was the only one!!! let me tell you something man.. i had headaches just like you did.. my car was out of commision for almost 3 months after me replacing the AFM from O'rielly's and other misc stuff... same exact problems you are having cept mine wasnt drivable cause i hit that brick wall wayyy to much... turns out O'riellys sold me a BAD AFM... ******* ******** dont test the products apparently cause you are having the same probs... take that 200$ pos back to them and get a refund... i bought one from santiago on the forum for 35 shipped and BAM my car was like new..... seriously though i will bet you all i own that that AFM is a dud.... get one from a member that can garuntee its good... good luck i want to know if thats what it was.. if so im NEVER buying from O'reilys again!!!

Keith

I disagree. The AFM is one area where the book is totally worthless imho. Here's how I would check an AFM: Put a voltmeter on pin 2E on the ECU (the wire is green with a blue stripe). Ground is the black wire at pin 2R. Take the AFM off of the stock air cleaner (or pull off the hi-flo air intake filter) to expose the flapper in the AFM. Turn on the ignition. The voltage should read about 4 volts. Slowly push the flapper until it is all the way back. The voltage should drop smoothly to about .5 volts, without any sudden jumps to +5V or ground. If this test passes, your AFM is just fine, replace the ECU. If this test fails, your AFM or it's wiring has a problem (broken ground wires are an extremely common problem in S4's). The book's wiring diagram for the AFM is correct and can be used for troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

AdAm87TuRbO2

Well Keith your the man. I did the test as you suggested and I think my afm is bad. There was less than 1 volt at the pins. I checked all of the wires, except the brown wire with the black dash tracers off of the Afm. I couldnt find where that one went, all the rest were ok. So I need an Afm for an s4 T2 and I'd like to know where that wire goes to, anybody know?

Roy James

Heres something to imagine, the test in the manual said both were bad... and the voltage test (pretty much a resistance test by checking voltage drop) both said that they were bad.