is there any way to test them?
also i have a 88 SE n/a and on mine the tube that led from the cat is no longer there and i have no converter, is that tube what sends back pressure to my 5th and 6trh ports to open them?? if so they arent going to ever open right, unless someone can give me that link to the site where someone electronically set them up to open at like 3200 rpms thats what i wanna do.....

 

Damnit man, oh well, screw it, i just spent 20 mins looking for this ****, but here are some decent results. http://www.fc3s.org/6-ports.html
has alot of different techniques to use and such (good pictures as well), but i think the one you were talking about to start with was http://homepage.mac.com/jburger/jaysrx7/6PortSolution/

Keep in mind you could have found both, yes BOTH of these by using that little thing in the upper right corner called "SEARCH". Good luck.

 

This guy has 8 posts, at this time, and he knows how to use the search feature . Good Job Roy..... lead by example.

 

the 2nd link wont work and thr first i have read already...... thanx though for the help

 

Hullo, Crossbar. See this http://homepage.mac.com/jburger/jaysrx7/6PortSolution/ Well I say take the diagram, and eliminate the solenoid etc, just run the tube from the point on the air pump hose and then to the nipple or pipe if you will for the aux actuators. Now go over to the left side of the engine and remove the BLUE connector from the RELIEF SOLENOID . Now warm up your engine, step to the engine bay and rev the engine using the throttle linkage. As you rev to about 3500 rpm the actuators WILL open. If they do not open, put the RELIEF SOLENOID connector back on. With the engine running at idle they should ALREADY be open. If not rev the engine and see when they open. If they do not open, and your air pump is working, and you have run the hose b/t the exaust hose of the air pump to the pipe that feeds the aux actuators, then you have a problem with the actuators themselves. That problem can be anything from a leaking paper gasket where each or anyone of the actuators are mounted, to frozen actuators to the sleeve in the enginge being gummed up. Let us know what happen after you spent three bucks or less for the hose and plastic barbs. Thats all you should have to spend unless you want to press on to the electronic part.

 

--shrug-- oh well, sorry bout that bro, the second link worked for me, that link is also found on the first links page. Good luck with that man, i had the same problem with mine, then i said "screw it" and wired them puppies open (my 6th port is mega gummed up, only 63K on the ticker and they are stuck, oh well) . Have PhuN

 

all emissions is removed and i have no air pump or acv.....what to do what to do.......if i get the pineapple racing sleeves i think i will be all set with wiring them open what do u guys and gals think??

crossbar

 

hhmm... well, if you insist on not having air pump on then i would go with the pineapple racing gear as well. Mazdaspeed7 and many other guys have great results with removed sleeves and pineapple sleeves replaced(~low 14 times from what i hear). I was thinking about putting my air pump on just for getting the ports working (just for kicks, its alright with them wired right now). Good luck man.

 

so with pineapple racing sleeves i just remove the 5th adn 6th actuator dashpot thingies??? so i will have a big flat spot where my actuators and acv used to be??

 

how is it that u can rmeove your 5th and 6th port dashpots??? with installed 5th and 6th port sleeves and your ports will work??? doesnt make sense to me anyone else??


crossbar

 

That RPM activation is only if u are still running cats. If u had no backpressure= no cats, why the hell would u still have an airpump?
Is there anyone RPM activation for ports if u have no airpump? I was just wondering i don't have any emmission and mine still open. hehe

 

IWANT7........A person like me would keep the airpump and the acv even if he did not not have cats(full Mazdatrix dual from exaust ports to tip of mufflers) because the air pump with the belt hooked up and turning , only puts out six or so psi which can only mean insignificant hp loss and the weigtht is insignificant, and the avc does not effect hp or idle.
That means I can leave them on and put them to use activating the aux ports at a cost of about three bucks.But taking the above into account and the FACT that I have to pass emissions once a year, it means all I have to do is whip off the exaust from Mazdatrix and install the well stored original exaust to pass emissions.
There is indeed a method for making them work w/o the airpump. Its somewhere in the archieves. They use an electric air pump and solenoids etc. P.S. I do realize why a racer would want to remove all the extra weight. I do not race. If I took them off I'd never notice the weight loss just ripping around the hood. I'll try to find the site that shows how to utilize a electric air pump. Later.

 

CROSSBAR.....You say you don't have the airpump. Ok. Just wire them open. On your 88 you want to tie the little actuating arm in the DOWN position. I've never tied mine down. I've removed the sleeves altogether at times and made them work as described in an above post. never tied them DOWN. If I ever do I'll pull the actuataors off(just two 10mm nuts) and tie the little arm down, then put the actuators back on with the two nuts leaving the small linkage disconnected b/t the actuator and the arm. Thats what I think you should do right now until you find an acceptable method of making them work. Removing the sleeves takes quite a bit more time. You can tie them down in just a few minutes.

 

how about if i put the pineappleraing 6port sleeves in and take off the dashpots and wire down the arms is this ok hailers?? will i lose less power by doing this?? or since i am taking off the intake manifold to replace them with pineapple racing sleeves is there a better option??

 

Those Pinneapple things sound promising. Might be a fun project. Taking the actuators off and putting them on the shelf can't hurt a thing if your going to put the Pineapple in and tie the arms down. It sounds to me like the ideal would be the actuators working with the Pineapple sleeves installed. There is just a touch of torque lost when the actuators are tied down. Its up to the individual as to whether that touch of torque is missed. Judge for yourself on that one. The one thing that is written in stone, is that if they are not working at all, you WILL miss a lot of power on the upper end. Until you get your Pineapples, tie them down and see if you don't agree that you have a lot more power from say 4000 up.

 

My 5/6 ports dont work either. I am going to try your set-up with the airpump actuating the acutators tomorrow. My question is, after I get my actuators working from the airpump do I leave the blue connector from the relief solenoid on or off for everyday driving?? I would like them to open at like 3500-4000rpms like they are supposed to. thanks in advance

 

PLAYINWANKELL........If you do it like I described, by running a line from the hose behing the airpump directly to the pipe behind the rear actuator that feeds the aux ports, then you have to leave the blue connector off the relief solenoid. If you do not do that, then the pressure on that hose going to the aux ports is great enough at just idle to open the aux ports.You don't want that. So what you want to do, is bleed off that excess pressure in the line back of the air pump. You do this by taking the BLUE connector off. That in turn opens the relief valve in the acv and dumps considerable pressure off the line. Then, when you rev the engine, the air pump increases output pressure as rpm's increase, and as fate would have it, the actuators will open about 3500 to 3700 rpm. I can tell you this. If you run the line to the aux actuators, and do not pull the BLUE connector off, and then the actuators do not move or open, then its almost a given that you have a stuck actuator. If that happens shove down on each actuator to make sure the piston will move into the actuator and when you let go that the actuator piston returns to the original extended position. If the actuators will move in and out like that, but not with the air from the pump hooked up, then its most likely the paper gasket that goes b/t the actuators and manifold are leaking. Does not take much of a leak to make them fail to open. So the answer is LEAVE THE BLUE RELIEF SOLENOID CONNECTOR OFF.

 

CROSSBAR.....Your original question is not answered. You want to see if they work, but you have no airpump or line from the cat. You can still see if they work though. You can get a 28 dollar MITTYVAC from the local PEPBOYS and connect that to the pipe that feeds them and then apply pressure. They should retract. If they do not, then they are leaking. Or you could take a shop air hose and hold the open end close to the feed pipe and they should work. If not then they have bad gaskets or are stuck. Push with your fingers on the shaft in a downward direction. They should retreat into the actuator and spring back. You seem a little puzzled about the actuators. I suggest getting a 10mm wrench and removing them. Just two nutz. Then you will see the removal of the actuators will not affect the operation of the sleeves if the arm that actuates the sleeves is tied down. They just stay open all the time.