i need help
ok umm everytime i start my car it revs up to 1000 rpm and then the idle fades down and the motor start to shake alot. sometimes the car dies out on me right when i just turn on the car. but i found out if i gave it some gas and dont make the idle drop to less then 1000rpm its fine. after a few minutes ill just let the throttle go and it'll stay just below 1000 but wont die.
okay, then you have other issues.
The cold start assist needs at least 1200 RPM just to activate. If you are starting in neutral and not getting a 1500-3000 RPM initial start, then you have other issues...
Like the coolant temp sensor is disconnected, or the BAC is bad or the AWS solenoid is bad.
The cold start assist needs at least 1200 RPM just to activate. If you are starting in neutral and not getting a 1500-3000 RPM initial start, then you have other issues...
Like the coolant temp sensor is disconnected, or the BAC is bad or the AWS solenoid is bad.
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ohh can you tell me where BAC is at. i know the AWS is near it. are they both soleniod valves?. is it a good idea to get them at the pick and pull or the dealer ship? plz let me know. thank you
Last edited by shetface; Oct 5, 2006 at 12:27 AM.
you need to test them, not replace them... what are you a Mazda dealer mechanic???
And locations can be found in the Factory Service Manual. Links for the factory service manual are found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread at the top of this section.
And locations can be found in the Factory Service Manual. Links for the factory service manual are found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread at the top of this section.
can you explain the system inspection of both BAC and AWS better what the FSM is telling? thank you for helping me out. very much appreciated.
Last edited by shetface; Oct 5, 2006 at 09:52 AM.
Yes, the FSM explains how to test just about every sensor in the car and it shows the location as well. The directions are pretty easy to follow as long as you have digital multimeter and some other basic tools. If they are bad the solution should be obvious, replace them from the dealer or get good, used ones.
wait wait did i use the right tester? its a AC DC tester. i didnt find any 12v on it so i just put it on +DC and 25v. did i even do it right? when i did that the BAC looked like its working but the AWS didnt show anything. i wonder if i even did it right?
Last edited by shetface; Oct 5, 2006 at 02:28 PM.


