About two weeks ago when I left the movie theatre and got into my 7 it almost didn't turn over fast enough to start, but it did. I drove to to the local supermarket and went shopping. Upon my return my 7 would not turn over. All of the electrical (stereo, headlights, etc..) worked fine. As I turned the key in an attempt to start nothing dimmed. I automatically asumed it was the starter itself. I then push started the car and drove it to my residence parking it in the garage. I ordered a new starter that day.

I have been working on my car diligently preparing for next weekends Rotary Revolution in Indiana. Painted engine, replaced carpet, etc...

Upon installing the new starter and the hooking up of the battery terminals it is still doing the same thing. There is no clicking noise while turning the key. Headlights still do not dim. Battery is fully charged.

I do not have a clue. As far as I can tell the main battery cables look fine.

Please help..........

 

Whats the voltage reading when the key is in the "ON" position. Also, when you turn the key to "START", what does the voltage drop to?

 

Voltage where? Sorry I am new to this elcetrical stuff. I will pick up a voltmeter tomorrow on the way home.

 

check the main relay for a "clicking" sound when the key is turned- it's just behind the trailing ignitor/ coil pack, driver's side...

 

Your profile says you have a N/A T2 swap. Do you still have the N/A gauge cluster, where it has a voltmeter, or do you have the turbo gauge cluster where there is a boost gauge?

 

I have yet to complete the TII swap...financial setbacks. I went out and looked at the voltage guage, it read 0. That is interesting. The headlights, stereo, turn signal, and brake lights all work.

there was no clicking at the main relay either.

 

O.K., next thing is to check your 15 amp engine fuse, about 1/2 way down the fuse box in near the clutch pedal...

 

15 Amp engine fuse is okay.

 

main 80 amp fuse O.K. in the engine bay fuse box? if it is, the only components still questionable are the ignition switch, main relay, main relay ground (below the trailing coil pack, on the strut tower),and the coils/ igniters themselves (and the wiring attaching all of this, of course)

 

Main relay 80 amp fuse is okay

Main relay ground is okay

I have a 87 TII in the other garage with a good main relay (battery cables to the starter itself). I will switch this out tomorrow. I also have another ingnition switch in it to swap out if this does not work.

The the igniters/coils have something to do with the engine cranking?

 

no, sorry man, I'm trying to help too many people at once here...yeh, if the fuses are good and the ground is good and the relay's not working, it's either the relay or ignition switch (the ign sw sends the power to that 15a fuse)

 

If you need more help after that, follow up this post in the Midwest forum area and on the MI club's website at: http://mirotaryclub.com

I'm sure we can find someone locally that can take a look or give advice. I want to meet you out at the event!

 

I would also like to meet you and the other fellows (and gals) from Michigan. I have been working hard on the car getting it ready for the revolution.

I pulled the other wiring harness off the TII last night and nearly have the harness off the NA. Just having a little trouble with the ground located on the back of the engine block.

After I thought about it last night, I believe it is the ignition switch. When I turn the key to the on position none of the idiot lights come on. After turning the key to the start position ther is no click at the solenoid or the main relay fuse box. This is my first endeavor with the electrical system with this RX7. I will give you a call tomorrow if I am unable to get it going.

Thanx