I Need Brake Rotor Help ASAP
#1
Is that thing Turbo?
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I Need Brake Rotor Help ASAP
OK i'm changing my rotors and pads right now and i've removed everything i need to in order to get the rotor off but its stuck. Any ideas of how to remove it? btw its the front passenger side if it matters. I've hit it with a hammer from the back and sprayed it with PB blaster and i got nothin.
#4
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Do you have the bolt hole in your rotor? My '90 has one all around. Its purpose is to allow you to screw in the correct bolt and then tighten it in. Be sure to spray PB Blaster or equivalent around the hub. Let it sit for a day or so and frequently turn the rotor when you spray it several times while you patiently wait for it to penetrate the rust. Tighten in the bolt and it may just push/pop it out.
#5
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Yes, use PB Blaster and a hammer. Give the hat of the rotors several good raps with a hammer then hit toward the center on the back of the rotor. Work your way around and be persistant. It should come off.
#6
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haha, I remember my rear caliper bolts were so bad that I had to cut the disc so I could remove the entire hub and take the entire assembly, rotor, hub, and caliper to a machine shop to have them extract the bolt. That was insane.
Anyhow, if the caliper is already removed, as are the lug nuts, the only thing holding it to the hub is some crushed grease/roadtar, ect. If a hammer doesn't get it off, GET A BIGGER HAMMER.
Anyhow, if the caliper is already removed, as are the lug nuts, the only thing holding it to the hub is some crushed grease/roadtar, ect. If a hammer doesn't get it off, GET A BIGGER HAMMER.
#7
Is that thing Turbo?
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Hmm I don't think I have this bolt hole, where on the rotor is it located? your saying that the rotor has a threaded hole that a bolt would thread into and begin to push on the hub behind it correct? Sounds like a great idea but i don't think i was so lucky as to have one
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#8
Is that thing Turbo?
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Ohh yeah any tips on removing those two pins that go though the brake pads, it took me hours of banging to get the first ones out and every hit just mushroomed the tip making it impossible to remove without cutting the end off, also can you buy these from a parts sotre or mazda dealership?
#9
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yeah. Atuozone should have those pins and the springs. they're just "brakeware". prolly 12 bucks for 4 pins and 2 sets of springs.
I persoanlly always put a good helping of anti-seize in to the mountng faces of brake rotors to avoid situations exactly like this.
I persoanlly always put a good helping of anti-seize in to the mountng faces of brake rotors to avoid situations exactly like this.
#10
just delt with this lastnight and today heres what i did today.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4&page=2&pp=15
Im taking the rest off tonight and gonna try and beat the crap out of them, if that doesnt work ill have to get them pressed off!!!!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4&page=2&pp=15
Im taking the rest off tonight and gonna try and beat the crap out of them, if that doesnt work ill have to get them pressed off!!!!
#11
Is that thing Turbo?
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well the only puller i could find at my parts store was only for up to a 7 inch diameter, my dad said sumthin about a flywheel puller any ideas?
#12
it was really easy just to take the codder pin and bolt off, and slide the hub off will the rotor and take it some where that has a press and have them press it off. im gonna take off the right side in a min and try and put a 4x4 on the hub and hit it with a sledge hammer... ill get back to you and tell ya how it worked. :-)
#13
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what is the year of your car ? I've never seen a second gen that you didn't take out the phillips head taper screws out and screw one in the hole made for taking the rotor off just go buy an impact screw driver and screw one of the phillips screws back in the removal hole
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
haha, I remember my rear caliper bolts were so bad that I had to cut the disc so I could remove the entire hub and take the entire assembly, rotor, hub, and caliper to a machine shop to have them extract the bolt. That was insane.
Anyhow, if the caliper is already removed, as are the lug nuts, the only thing holding it to the hub is some crushed grease/roadtar, ect. If a hammer doesn't get it off, GET A BIGGER HAMMER.
Anyhow, if the caliper is already removed, as are the lug nuts, the only thing holding it to the hub is some crushed grease/roadtar, ect. If a hammer doesn't get it off, GET A BIGGER HAMMER.
#15
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Originally Posted by inflatablepets
The hub is alumium and the rotor is steel. They react with each other over time and cause bad corrosion. That's what happens.
#17
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hit it harder, heat it with a torch, get a big prybar. i have seen rex rotors without threaded holes, but most of em have them. when you hit it with a hammer, hit the face of the rotor, between the lug bolts, really fast and about half as hard as you can. then hit the back of it to push it off. repeat this for a while and it will come off.
pat
pat
#18
well iv givin up for the night on mine! i took the rotor and hub off the spindel, tapped the lugs out, place the rotor on 2x4s, put a 4x6 on the hup and hit it with a full sized sledged hammer about 20 times after heating it and it didnt budge a bit! im gonna have to take it to a machine shop and have it pressed off like i did for the left one.
#19
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Originally Posted by amishboy
well the rear goes into aluminum and the front goes to the spindle there isn't anything aluminum on the front
I can't believe you guys can't handle somthing so simple as a brake job.
#20
Originally Posted by inflatablepets
What RX-7 do you have then. Both of mine have aluminum hubs on the front.
I can't believe you guys can't handle somthing so simple as a brake job.
I can't believe you guys can't handle somthing so simple as a brake job.
The rear had holes to screw a bolt into and the just poped right off but the front doesnt have them, at least on a 87 N/A.
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