arch8300

I finally went out and bought a $15 multimeter today to set my tps. I set it , drive it for a few minutes then check it again and its good. Later when I start my car up the idle surges from 1400 to 1600 before it was rock solid at anywhere bewteen 1500 to 2200. Also on the drive home the car would hesatate while crusing w/ constant speed and while decelerating at first. Then it would do this under light throtle application. I tried unpluging BAC but it did nothing. Need Your Ideas On Getting this fixed

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Ummm... I generally use the light method to adjust TPS. Seems to work better in my opinion.

Amur_

Check the TPS again. If you haven't set it in a long time (or ever, as it sounds like) then it may take a little while for it to find it's happy place.

WAYNE88N/A

if she was running good before your TPS adjustment, just tweak it back to where it was...

arch8300

Any thing else? Does a TPS not set right give those affects?

Amur_

It may be that now that the TPS is set properly you have unveiled a different problem that the TPS used to mask...

TurboII RudeBoy

set the tps with the meter, make sure resistance is good and play with it while the cars running, if the idle doesn't slowly get rock solid try another tps for good measure, check for vac leaks also

arch8300

thanks

NZConvertible

So this is probably not related to anything controlled by the ECU. Sounds likie a mechanical problem, either a stuck throttle or a BAC valve internally leaking.

All you're doing with the lights is setting the throttle position within the window of correct operation of the emissions solenoids. The TPS check connector is simply wired in parallel with the relief and switching solenoids, and the lights are telling you when the solenoids are on.

Given 15+ years of wear, the TPS setting that's correct for emissions may not necessarily give you the best driveability. I found that by measuring the voltage or resistance of the TPS you can experiment to find the exact value that gives your car the best result. The lights aren't nearly accurate enough to use for that.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I am not debating the merits of the resistance method. Just seems that the light method gives the best results for driveability...

Rat

MAZTEC

make sure engine is at operating temp.light method works best.there are a lot of tps that i have not been able to adjust.slap a new one on,and would adjust just fine.good luck

NZConvertible

With the lights, all you're aiming to get is both lights lit, but there's actually quite a large range of adjustment that will do that. Adjusting it to either end of that range will give quite different results, despite the fact that it's set "correctly". The far greater precision a multimeter reading gives you allows for much finer tuning.

If you're happy with the results from the lights that's cool, but it doesn't make them the "best" way to do it.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

One light lit, not 2.

NZConvertible

Oh yeah, that's right. It's been ages since I bothered with them...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Pffft....