i know this isnt the rtek lounge but this will take forever to get answered there?
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RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
i know this isnt the rtek lounge but this will take forever to get answered there?
i have just installed a used rtek 1.7 bought from a member here and also 720cc, with new 550cc too. i got to driving it down the interstate here in tennesee and its fairly cold out at night and boost creep is a usual accurance in my car, but it wont creep now it hits 5.5lbs 1st and 2nd , 3rd-5th 5.5-7ish lbs. i have found out at less than a 1/4 throttle around the secondaries new staging rpm 3300-3500 theres a lean out that occurs at light throttle. i dunno if bad tps maybe? but also my pulsation dampener was bad and i did the banjo bolt mod since i didnt know it was bad at the time, but i poped the plastic cap off and there lies the screw and if theres one thing i have learned here is.. if you find the screwed ..youre screwed and no telling how long its been like that either.but anyway
Last edited by boost_its_what_for_dinner; Feb 2, 2007 at 01:15 PM. Reason: mispelled the title
The hesitation at zero vac and the staging point is common.
Grounding the boost sensors ground wire to the fender sometimes helps combat it.
As for the boost creep. Not really sure. I don't see how the rtek could affect the turbo's ability to spool that much.
Boost creep is more of physical thing than electronic.
What mods did you have before when you would creep?
Grounding the boost sensors ground wire to the fender sometimes helps combat it.
As for the boost creep. Not really sure. I don't see how the rtek could affect the turbo's ability to spool that much.
Boost creep is more of physical thing than electronic.
What mods did you have before when you would creep?
I have the same problem with the hesitation at low throttle, zero vac, staging point. Had it both with the rtek 1.7 and 2.0. Spraying electrical contact cleaner into the boost sensor connector helped a great deal. Im replacing injectors 720 pri, 1000 sec, and am going to clean the connectors before installing, ill keep you updated to see if that fixes it
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
thanks for the advice and i have walboro 255,720 cc second and new 550cc primary,3in dp and full exhaust, cone filter on afm.block off plates,frount mount ic , 2.5in piping,greddy profec type-s boost cont.,boost gauge ofcourse,a/f guage narrow band. i had it before and now i didnt have any the last time i drove it atleast but it felt slower kinda, but then again im so use to doing 140 and driving it fast most the time that i wont notice a little cahnge plus imnot boost creeping in 1rs or 2nd so thats the quick gears and 3rd pull good and 4th and 5th pull normal i guess, i havent turnedthe boost up because of factory wastegate but bnr turbo real soon yeah!!!!
I have a friend who was fighting this problem for a while, he didnt think that regrounding would work with the lean out during the change over, he regrounded the pressure sensor- problem completely solved. He has the 1.7 with 550cc/720cc
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
ok well i now have the leaking primary rail again and dont know why? fuel is running out from what looks like the front primary inj. from the top like the o-ring is not sealing.. has any one ever had this situation when putting injectors in ?
I am having this exact problem with my Rtek 1.7 : hesitation and lean spots under boost. I have not attempted to reground the pressure sensor or clean the connector, but every other ground on the car has been cleaned (ECU ground added as well).
Sounds like I will give this a shot this weekend after I put in my new starter.
Sounds like I will give this a shot this weekend after I put in my new starter.
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i just finished installing new injectors all around, RC engineering 750cc primaries, 1000cc secondaries, flow tested and everything, even cleaned the connectors with electrical contact cleaner.. hesitation still there.
the next thing i am trying is installing a boost restrictor pill, since i dont have one now. I will also try grounding the boost sensor, but ive read that that only helps on pre-88 years??
edit: ive also cleaned all the grounds, and grounded the ecu, relocated battery, also saw the problems with rtek 1.7 and 2.0.
the next thing i am trying is installing a boost restrictor pill, since i dont have one now. I will also try grounding the boost sensor, but ive read that that only helps on pre-88 years??
edit: ive also cleaned all the grounds, and grounded the ecu, relocated battery, also saw the problems with rtek 1.7 and 2.0.
Last edited by gxl90rx7; Feb 5, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
Originally Posted by boost_its_what_for_dinner
where the o-rings on the injectors tight or loose on the top
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
see myine wer loose when i pulled them out from the secondaries and then i put them in as primaries to have the 720cc as secondaries... but they leaked then and then i took the o-rings off the old primaries and it hold for a day then now yesterday it leaked on my way to work. it not a huge deal to take my UM off , it takes like 10 mins tops and maybe 15 to put back on. i just need those parts asap.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Originally Posted by boost_its_what_for_dinner
see myine wer loose when i pulled them out from the secondaries and then i put them in as primaries to have the 720cc as secondaries... but they leaked then and then i took the o-rings off the old primaries and it hold for a day then now yesterday it leaked on my way to work. it not a huge deal to take my UM off , it takes like 10 mins tops and maybe 15 to put back on. i just need those parts asap.
Your not following procedures right. You install the injectors and the fuel rails. Then before you install the upper intake manifold, you jumper the fuel pump check connector to pressurize the fuel rails and you look for leakage for ten or fifteen minutes. Then if there are no leaks you reinstall the upper intake manifold.
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
is that the 2 prong green plug by the leading coil? and i did that the last time but i just push the door on my afm open with the key on and found th leak but then it all sealed up and not leaking
Senior Member
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From: idaho
adressing the boost issue. Does it boost normally up to 5-7psi or take a while to get there? and also what aftermarket components do you have? Make sure you don't have a leaky exhaust manifold or turbo gasket. You can check that but unplugging a vac line that goes directly to the intake manifold and let it suck in some water. If you see any steam by your turbo then you know you've got a problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/1-7-problems-541808/
quite a few people had the problems!!!
quite a few people had the problems!!!
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
true but... i need to test that out again now that my injectors arent leaking for now ... sad face... but as soon as i know they are good then ill do the run and look for hesitation but i think since my injectors were leaking there might had been a fuel pressure drop at that rpm and that could ahve caused it
Originally Posted by Henrik
One other thing that seems to be in common is that you're all 88's and as such need to run external resistors for the 720's. So a theory:
Digging through some of the posts, I see that 88rxn/a and eriksseven are using 10
ohm resistors. In an 87 model, the resistors are 5-7 ohms so your running a fair bit
more resistance than people with 87's are. On my 87, my resistor block measures
at 6.4 ohms. My injectors measure at 2.5 ohms. So in total, the ECU in my car, like
other 87's will see 8.9 ohms. You'll be seeing 12.5 or so. Higher resistance will
mean less current which will mean slower opening times. It may only be a fraction of
a ms but at light throttle at cutover to secondaries the pulsewidths will be very low
already. At higher rpms and/or heavy throttle the pulsewidths are much longer and
a fraction of a ms will be much less significant, if at all. Could one or more of you try
running 5-7 ohms (you can put two 10ohm in parallel to get 5).
One thing that doesn't fit is the reports of hesitation a 3000rpm. At this rpm range, the
1.7 will operate exactly as a stock N332 ECU and on primaries only.
-Henrik
Digging through some of the posts, I see that 88rxn/a and eriksseven are using 10
ohm resistors. In an 87 model, the resistors are 5-7 ohms so your running a fair bit
more resistance than people with 87's are. On my 87, my resistor block measures
at 6.4 ohms. My injectors measure at 2.5 ohms. So in total, the ECU in my car, like
other 87's will see 8.9 ohms. You'll be seeing 12.5 or so. Higher resistance will
mean less current which will mean slower opening times. It may only be a fraction of
a ms but at light throttle at cutover to secondaries the pulsewidths will be very low
already. At higher rpms and/or heavy throttle the pulsewidths are much longer and
a fraction of a ms will be much less significant, if at all. Could one or more of you try
running 5-7 ohms (you can put two 10ohm in parallel to get 5).
One thing that doesn't fit is the reports of hesitation a 3000rpm. At this rpm range, the
1.7 will operate exactly as a stock N332 ECU and on primaries only.
-Henrik
hey you said you had a boost controller, does the boost not respond weather you turn the boost controller up or down? if not then i say you boost controller is broken and you have a pretty good ported wastegate and thats the boost your getting without the boost controller turning it up
well yesterday i made a restictor pill (1/32" hole) and put it in the boost sensor line. I also raised the staging rpm back up to ~3800rpm (the highest setting on the 2.0) from 3000rpm.
Hesitation is still there, but at 3800rpm.
im thinking about replacing my 10 ohm resistors with 8 ohm, found some 8 ohm/20W resistors at radioshack, i may do it this weekend
Hesitation is still there, but at 3800rpm.
im thinking about replacing my 10 ohm resistors with 8 ohm, found some 8 ohm/20W resistors at radioshack, i may do it this weekend
Thread Starter
RotoriousRx7
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
well i havent seen or found the lean spot since leaky inj. fi, and i havent tested the boost controller but then again i forgot it wasnt on but ill test tonight. how much boost can you run safely on 1.7,720,walboro 255 ?? so so i dont overboost. i also adjusted my tps to sec and fooled around with some of those screws on the tb and got my isdle down to 800 so ill see how it will affect daily driving since it acted wierd last time i tried adjusting it.
Rotary Enthusiast
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From: ct
problem solved
well i had a hesitation problem with the rtec come to find out it wasnt the rtec it was my tps i was setting it with my meter , then i tried setting it with my safc to i volt the car ran perfect ever since ,now i have a wolf 3d but the rtec is good for the money i just wanted to be a little safe with a standalone