ok well i have n/a s4 that has around 190,xxx miles i have done a compression test comes out to be around 115psi on all 6 sides and a 10 psi drop between compression.

i plan to turbo it but on all s4 t2 electronics like ecu,map,engine harness,afm i also plan of sending the ecu to rtek to get chipped for the 1.7version of course ill have the injectors for it.with also aftermarket exhaust manifold with a 48 external wastegate and turbo(gt3071r) and front mount intercooler ,every needed to make it turbo correctly.

"this will be done correctly not half ***"

qeustion is i would like a answer from people that has done na-t's how much psi's have yall put on the motor untill it went?how long it lasted and what was your setup(turbo,ecu, etc..),?

 

I am very suprised at the compression on a 190K engine. When was it rebuilt. I don't perport to be an expert, but I do know that the turbo has less of a compression ratio than the NA because of the boost. I would be leery of boosting a motor with 190 K on it if that is the original. Just an opinion. Would it not be better just to get a short block from a turbo? Again, I am not an expert, but keep the boost down on an NA. I have and S5 Turbo and I think that stock it runs around 8 pounds with the stock BOV.

 

upgrading the turbo without a way to tune the fuel trims(or monitor them) is a baaad idea.

 

www.arroncake.net
Read his Stuff..he did a car called Project TINA..(N/a engine turned turbo).
The man is Good.No Doubt.

 

i think also when i did the compression test too that this motor was either a reman or was rebuild.

ill have everything to monitor it as in wideband and a apexi neo.also forgot to mention it wont be on 720sec. it be on something around 800secondarys.

i have read many times arron's writeup its interesting but its a different setup and not near what im doing.when the first time he turbo it ,,,now its a different animal

 

A common NA-T fuel setup for our cars is T2 550 primary's, GSL-SE 680 secondaries. What you have should be plenty of fuel. Since your using a plug and play, not a stand alone, I'd recommend not going over 10lbs until you have a feeling how the car is going to react to the high compression boost. Start off on 8-10 lbs, see how you like it, check afr's, egt's, etc. If everything looks safe, go ahead and turn the boost up a couple psi, adjust fuel higher, "Lather, Rinse, Repeat".

If you listen to the people on here, their all going to tell you "high compression boost is a bad idea" or "its going to blow up really soon". In reality, as long as its assembled correctly and tuned correctly or even slightly rich, it'll last just fine. But just like anything turbocharged, it is going to blow up eventually. Most of the time, when idiots on here do high comp boost, they just slap a s5 turbo and manifold on a n/a block without changing the ecu. And then they wonder why it blew up the first time it boosted. I've talked to several local VERY well known mechanics about high comp boost setups who have told me as long as its tuned correctly, theirs no reason it shouldn't last as long as a standard T2 block with the same mods.

With what you say you have, the neo, wideband, gt30, an rtek, and other T2 electronics, I don't see any problem with this not running correctly. Just make sure you have it set rich the first time you go to boost on it. Rich is always better than going lean.

And besides, a S4 n/a block isn't even that much higher comp over a T2 block. T2 is only 9:1. S4 N/A is 9.4:1. S5 N/A is 9.7:1.


If you need any help with setting it up, shoot me a pm, I'll come by and help.

 

thank u for your reponse, novak

 

I say pop goes the motor. I would boost a high compression 13b, but only after "building" it properly and with good seals. Just because you have good compression doesn't mean it's gonna hold. I put a camden on a healthy gslse engine with factory 3mm seals, conservative timing and plenty of fuel, and pop she went the next day. Then, had a motor built properly, and it was bullet proof.

 

Maybe you just werent lucky then. I have a friend here in Orlando that drives around a S4 with S5 turbo slapped on it and stock ecu w/ safc tuned rich. It took about 6 months of constant redline and heavy drifting for it to finally drop a side seal.

 

Still building it with a good core is far cheaper if the rotors and housings are salvageable than rebuilding a popped motor.

 

well i think it will last if i do it, i take alot precautions on what i do,, just saying.


novak by any chance is your friend named wesly or stevie? something like that?