FCS34LIFE

This is my first thread so forgive me if it is in the wrong spot or anything.

I've got a 1988 Vert. It has been sitting for about 3 years because of a bad fuel pump. I recently replaced the fuel pump with a Wallboro. I got the car started and it ran for about 15 min. It had horrable power but i was able to drive it to the bottom of the hill I live on. The it stalled. I couldn't get it to start again for about 2 hours.

Now here is the problem and I can not figure it out for the life of me.:

The car will start right up like it should. Then it will die right away. It will only run for two seconds at the most. I have the mazda factory manual and it doesnt give me any help. The only thing I can gather from that is that the crank angle sensor could be the source of the problem. But would it even start then at all? I can't figure it out. I just want to get the car running to the point that i can drive it across town so I can put it in a proper garage and start the turbo swap.

Here is some facts:
The engine has about 150k on it.
I recently put some tranny fluid into the engine to break the apex seals loose in hope to give it enough power to move it self.
I put new plugs in.
It gets spark, fuel and air.
The coolant level buzzer is driving me insane.
Though the coolant is, in fact, low.
I drained the fuel tank and gave it fresh gas (92 octane)
This thing smokes like a MF. I have never seen so much smoke in my life. (and I owned a caprice diesel!)
Starting fluid doesn't help.

I can't figure it out. I just want to drive it.

Please help.


Thanks

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

NA's run rich to begin with. Wallbro is too much pump for a stock or slightly modified NA. Are you flooding it? See if the spark plugs are wet. Follow flooding procedure in this section under FAQ or archives. How long did you leave the ATF in (it is bad to leave it for long - some people will flame you for even putting it in). Just something to get you started...

FCS34LIFE

The ATF was in for about 2 hours. Then I just cranked it all out. The only reason I did that is because that is what the Mazda dealership did last time it wouldnt start. the plugs didn't seem to be wet. Shouldn't the FPR take care of the excess fuel pressure? I had a probe fuel pump in it for a while and it only ran for about 5 seconds then and then I couldn't get it to do anything. But that was before I changed the gas and the plugs.

Also, it actually runs better and longer if you start it up with the throttle floored. Does the Rx-7 have a clear flood mode? If not how would I get it to stop flooding?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know (convertibles have a different ECU so I'm not sure), only 89-91's disable fuel when you start them with the throttle open. Re: the FPR, it regulates the pressure at the fuel rail, but the Wallbro may be putting out more volume than it can handle. You'd have to put a high pressure fuel gauge tee'd in between the fuel filter and the fuel rail to be sure if the FPR is controlling the pressure accurately.

You can jumper the fuel pump test connector (yellow plug with black boot near the boost sensor and airflow meter) with ignition on and test pressure.

slo

iTrader: (1)

You might have a really clogged fuel filter

I have found that when fuel pumps go bad, they seem to go bad in tandem with a really clogged filter.

I worked on an 86 recently when the fuel pump stopped, (car was running fine before), after replacment the car would only idle and just barley, it basicly ran like **** and wouln't even free rev past about 3500rpm.

New fuel filter and it runs like a champ.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

BTW, check the airflow meter to make sure the resistances are fine and that the fuel pump circuit works when the flap is moved open. There is are two circuits that run the fuel pump. One runs in start, the other when the computer senses the engine is running (airflow meter flap open). Could be only the starting circuit is supplying fuel. Also, re previous post...the smoke is normal after putting oil or ATF in. The coolant buzzer will generally shut up if you bleed the air by loosening the air bleed screw near the top passenger side of the rad.

I still say she is flooding. Check for wet spark plugs after a couple of starting attempts, then follow simple (and then non-simple) flooding procedure... (i.e. remove EGI Inj. fuse, crank, etc.)

Icemark

Sounds like a blown motor to me, has compression been checked?

And pfsantos to unflood any fuel injected rotary, you hold the throttle all the way open without pumping it, not just S5 and up. That even works on a S3 GSL-SE

slo

iTrader: (1)

It would be a big coincidence to have a motor blow at the same time a fuel pump went bad, well at least on a non turbo it would.

FCS34LIFE

I know it has poor compression but the car ran when the fuel pump went bad. The poor compression is just from the age and milage of the engine.

I'm going to replace the fuel filter and check the MAF and see what happens. I'll also test it for flooding.. If the plugs are wet i'll put the probe fuel pump back in.

phoenix7

yo ICEMARK, I thought it was S5 only? Either way, it sounds like it's flooding to me.

Do a compression check to rule it out or give up working on anything else.

Get back to us with compression numbers.

Icemark

Well add this up, without even paying attention to the fuel pump thing
So, been sitting for 3 years, has low to no power, smokes like crazy, low coolant, and he used ATF to help clear it (which if he put too much in, pretty much blows the seals out).

I mean add it up...if you just look at those things, it points to a blown motor, so he should be checking compression.

Icemark

Nope they all do it, On the S5 it kills the fuel pump while cranking at WOT, but in the S3 and S4s it opens the MOP to full (dumping a lot of oil in to help build compression) and opens the throttle butterflys to let as much air in as possible.

You will find that in all the owners manuals for Fuel Injected rotary engines, regardless of series.

FCS34LIFE

ok I'll do a compression check first.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I agree on the unflooding bit and holding the throttle open, except that the S5's shutting down the fuel at WOT must help much more, no?

Edit: +1 on the compression test

phoenix7

man, I'm on a learning spree today.

FCS34LIFE

I'm having some trouble getting my hands on a good compression tester. Although I did order a new fuel filter. I'm out working on my car right now. It will start and run for 3-4 seconds and during that time I can free rev or whatever but then it just dies. even if it's at high rpm. I cant figure it out. If you have time, feel free to give me a call. 330-309-3693. I could really use the help.

richme4life7886@yahoo.com

I hope it is not a blown motor depending on where you get one they are expensive...

FCS34LIFE

TTT Anyone have any ideas? This motor is not blown, it runs gret for 3-4 seconds then turns off. It just stops running. It doesn't die, it's more like someone just turned the key off. It just doesn't make sense. I'm going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow.

I disconnected the MAF to make it go to base line in case it was bad and it runs a second or so longer now. Thats about all the progress I made.

What does the ecu look at to switch the fuel pump to run mode rather than start mode?

03/08/87

I've found no reference to it in my manual.

Icemark

Then you didn't read your owners manual very well.

NZConvertible

Injectors, not fuel pump.

It'll certainly help, that's why it was added. But holding the throttle open while cranking is the correct unflooding procedure for any petrol engine. A method of cutting fuel flow during that just makes it work better.

HAILERS

************************************************** ***************What does the ecu look at to switch the fuel pump to run mode rather than start mode?
************************************************** ***************
It looks for airflow from the AFM and if it sees it, it then outputs a gnd on pin 1K of the ECU, to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay.

So if the AFM plug isn't connected, the ECU sees no airflow.........no gnd from pin 1K........no pump a runnin.

Jumper the yellow two socket Fuel Pump Check Connector if you want the pump to run without the engine running (or key HELD to start).

By the way, the FPR will NOT compensate for the extra flow/pressure from the Waldo fuel pump. Too much fuel imho. The duty cycle of the fuel injectors is at a set duty cycle during Start (rpm below 500 rpm). The duty cycle during Start is predetermined by a *map* inside the ECU.

It's going to take twenty to thirty minutes of constant running to get rid of that smoke. Smoke is there because of all the atf/gas that has been dumped into the exhaust manifold. As the exhaust pipe temps rise, the smoke will be burnt off. A gradual process. Kiss any catalytic converter bye, bye.

NZConvertible

You mean circuit opening relay...

HAILERS

Ahhhhahmmmmmm. I was just checking to see if anybody actually reads the replys. By the way, you missed the part where it should have been 3K, not 1K.

Edit: Actually, forget my post altogether. I need to rethink this.

EDIT: No, no rethinking required. I just need to do something other than get on this forum. Bye.

FCS34LIFE

Thanks, I'll jumper that and see what helps. It certainly seems like the fuel pump is just shutting off. Hopefully that works. Once the car is up and running I dont think I'd have a problem with it flooding. I'll just drive it flat out all the time.