Rixxer39

New to the RX7 arena, but love working on them. I haven't fooled around too much with my new GXL non-turbo. That's because I bought it unused for two years from an older lady who only put 80,000 on it.
I've been having some afterburn problems, mostly on the warm-up, and during the hot start there is quite a bit of shaking of the motor itself, and lots of popping out my dual pipes. This problem started initially as I was increasing elevation from about 1,000 feet to about 5-6,000 feet (pressure sensor?), I began to smell a very strong gas smell on the incline and lose idle speed once I stopped the car and continued on my honeymoon journey (by the way, a great honeymoon but for the mazda). Replaced the alternator and it helped the idle a bit. This is how the problem manifested. Since then, this is what has happened:

On hot start it does not always climb to 3grand, sometimes it starts low then gets high. or the other way around then back up.

While hot starting it has very hard exhaust popping, soft and dull, but powerful. (BAC tests fine on resistance). However my BAC does not cause the idle to change by decreasing when unplugged, as the Haynes manual says it should. (move to the entire ECU and clean??)

It also does the idle speed flutter...from about1000rpm to 1500 up and down for about one minute on warm up, then the rpm range closes until it smoothes out around 1200 where it either will hold or drop to 800, depending on mood. (again BAC tests fine even clamped the air hose)

Very rich fuel odor from exhaust.

And recently it just stopped starting up until I replaced the fuel pump (of all things). However, when I do a fuel pressure check with the check wire in the passenger side white colored connector, the fuel pump runs forever, never stopping, indicating low fuel pressure even after the replaced fuel pump allowed it to start. Cannot find any leaks and don't have a pressure gauge yet to check the pressure regulator on the fuel rail; which, in my car, is one piece attached to the fuel rail, you other guys have a nut and bracket for it.

Idle speed fluctuates while driving. 1200 at some times, 8-900 at others, but usually very steady at whatever speed it chooses; timing is dead on, a little retarded but its adjustments do not eliminate the afterburn and shakes.

Also, I am a little retarded because I decided to dink around with the TPS when it was having idle problems (didn't know it was so important and touchy at the time). I've done similar adjustments to my 22re idle mixtures, but that's a little less advanced. So I may have screwed things up on that note but can't find a manual that shows me how to check it, and I can't make sense of the led light thing everyone talks about. I do have an electrical tester though.

Now I'll list my error code pulses, see if anyone can check their codes manual or send me a link to some site (I can only find ones for the years just ahead and behind mine). 1990 GXL non-turbo

Engine code pulses:

L=long pulse, S=short pulse, P=pause:

1. SSSSSSSS (8 short pulses)
2. L P ( one long one pause)
3. L P SS (One long, pause, two short)
4. L P SSS (One long, pause, three short)
5. L P SSSSSSSS (One long, pause, 8 short)


Things that work upon testing:
BAC tests fine
Battery charged, alternator new
EGI fuse good
Can't find fuel leaks anywhere.
All fuel hoses on tight (new clamps on the new fuel pump).
Main relay clicks on.

Something is definately wrong with fuel pressure but until I figure out the codes I've checked everything I'm willing to without more evidences.

Could it be my pressure regulator or pulsation damper?
Or should I look more into the computer end of things?

I don't expect anyone to say "I know, it's your..." But any new direction or piece of advice would be awesome. At this point I'm scared to drive the little speed demon because of all the apex seal horror stories I've heard.

Thanks for your help, reply soon or I may turn into this guy

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

I would address the fixes for the codes you found as a first step.
Codes 8 and 10 typically come as a pair: Air Flow meter (AFM) and the air temp sensor on the AFM....check that the plug connected to the AFM is fitted on well

Codes 12 and 18 typically come as a pair: Throttle Position Sensor full range and narrow range...usually nothing any more serious than getting the TPS correctly adjusted

Code 13 is the code for the Pressure Sensor....check the vacuum line to this sensor and check the electirical connector as well

Once you get all this done, see which symptoms you still have

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/kerror.html

Rixxer39

Always enjoy your responses Chuck. You mentioned some specific codes in your response to my message. These codes correspond to the pulses I posted? Where did you get them, link or personal reference? I'll be checking these things today and get back to ya'll, but I still can't find directions for the TPS hookup and adjust with an electrical tester....

Thanks sideways 7, I've been to that link, but can't find the pulse patterns to correspond with the error code number.

Thanks everyone.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Look up a factory service manual....you can find a link in the FAQ section of this forum. Under the Fuel and Emissions section of the S5's there's a whole section describing all of the error codes and their meanings.