Hypothetical: Turbo N/A S5 - Cheap, low boost. How to:
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
Listen to SonicRaT-
You should upgrade the fuel pump on the first phase.
I say the first phase because however much boost you start out with-it won't be enough. Boost is sex with your clothes on. You will want more. Everybody does.
You will overrun your N/A fuel pump at an inappropriate time.
You should upgrade the fuel pump on the first phase.
I say the first phase because however much boost you start out with-it won't be enough. Boost is sex with your clothes on. You will want more. Everybody does.
You will overrun your N/A fuel pump at an inappropriate time.
Just so you know (I'm sure you do), they are not as bad as many people say. A guy here in town turbo his s4 with 100k on the engine (at least) and beat it up for 3 years. Finally went turbo block when he cracked his intake.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
What's not as bad as who says? High compression turbos? I don't think anybody in here has said much about that, it's just a matter of tuning and keeping IAT under control.
I've had more than 1 person try to convince me not to do it. Maybe because they want me to buy motors and rebuilds from them? I'm not sure but I will be going this way.
Now I just need to know if stock s4 turbo injectors will work with stock s4 turbo
Now I just need to know if stock s4 turbo injectors will work with stock s4 turbo
and dont say the back rotor is blown because you, your mother or your dumbass friends decided the n374 ecu that had been rained on is ok to use....
Yeah I am trying to do it as cheap as possible, not necessarily because I am broke, but mostly for the sake of doing it and doing a write up of my own on it, and how low I can go. My expectations are not high.
I am definitely not looking for ALOT of power or something I can abuse.
You guys remember that story of guy who traded a paperclip for other stuff until he eventually got a house?
I feel like in a way I am trying something similar, just to build something decent myself, as cheap as possible, but decent.
An example. For my fc that I am ls1 swapping and widebodying I would have spent massive amounts of money if I bought everything at price
I have an ls1 with 28k, mounting kit, widebody kit, carbon fiber adjustable racing seats, 2 18x 9.5 fno1rc's with brand new tires, just need the other two.
For all of the above I paid $2675 for. Ur lucky to get even an LS1 for that much alone, more or less the other ****.
So with that being said, I'm looking more to do a "guys, hey look what I managed to do type deal"
The plumbing sucks thought, but if it HAS to be done then it has to be done.
And I have no interest in buying a jspec motor and not knowing what you get, and then having to rebuild ****.
If I was going to do that then I would do it on this vert I am doing an LS1 swap into.
Lets try to imagine a cheapest total cost here with low expectations.
S-afc= $100 ?
Oil lines= $200
s5 turbo and manifold= $150
Ghettocooler= $125
Injectors=$100
So around 7-800 bucks on the cheapest side of things? And I mean after doing some serious bargain hunting, not just what you would normally pay. Plus you have to pay for all of this little nickle and dime stuff over time, but lets not account for that.
I am definitely not looking for ALOT of power or something I can abuse.
You guys remember that story of guy who traded a paperclip for other stuff until he eventually got a house?
I feel like in a way I am trying something similar, just to build something decent myself, as cheap as possible, but decent.
An example. For my fc that I am ls1 swapping and widebodying I would have spent massive amounts of money if I bought everything at price
I have an ls1 with 28k, mounting kit, widebody kit, carbon fiber adjustable racing seats, 2 18x 9.5 fno1rc's with brand new tires, just need the other two.
For all of the above I paid $2675 for. Ur lucky to get even an LS1 for that much alone, more or less the other ****.
So with that being said, I'm looking more to do a "guys, hey look what I managed to do type deal"
The plumbing sucks thought, but if it HAS to be done then it has to be done.
And I have no interest in buying a jspec motor and not knowing what you get, and then having to rebuild ****.
If I was going to do that then I would do it on this vert I am doing an LS1 swap into.
Lets try to imagine a cheapest total cost here with low expectations.
S-afc= $100 ?
Oil lines= $200
s5 turbo and manifold= $150
Ghettocooler= $125
Injectors=$100
So around 7-800 bucks on the cheapest side of things? And I mean after doing some serious bargain hunting, not just what you would normally pay. Plus you have to pay for all of this little nickle and dime stuff over time, but lets not account for that.
7-800... do you realize that a J-spec 13BT can be found for that price?
even if that **** dont work, you still have alot of hard parts you can use for a fairly correct and not as ghetto a swap...
im sure you will be able to blow your NA drivetrain up with confidence doing that too! open vent the stock BOV (ignore the vaccum leak from that), clutch kick, paint the pulleys, and driffftttttttt
Needs shifter bushings!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: connersville, IN
Turbo n/a all the way
Don't mean to hijack the thread but how much power can the stock na clutch hold up to?I have everything to do this except s-afc and injectors(anyone got either for cheap?)Got stainless header, old airesearch t04b35 hotside .81 ar,conquest fmic,(motec systems exhaust 
sorry had to)
sorry had to)
I would need to run the oil lines, but I didn't really think the oil lines would be that expensive. I can deal with a 100 bucks, but anything over that is sort of pointless.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
