Hypertek's budget elec fan install
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Solder = bad
Crimping = bestus
#27
wow dude .. thats like saying you shouldnt spot weld your chassis, but instead, use pop rivots instead..
crimps you would loose resistance.. well in the r/c car world that is very important... maybe you just had a bad soldering job. I'll take my chances, thanks.
I guess i dont need that first relay after all.. ill cancel it out of my setup
crimps you would loose resistance.. well in the r/c car world that is very important... maybe you just had a bad soldering job. I'll take my chances, thanks.
I guess i dont need that first relay after all.. ill cancel it out of my setup
#28
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Yeah, I'll just listen to my EMS guru who has been building harnesses professionally for >25 years. The same guy who has worked on countless 300+mph Bonneville cars, Bikes, Lemans cars, 980BHP Rotary dragsters, ALMS teams, And lets not forget has done plenty of work for and with Jim Downing.
Oh yeah - taken DIRECTLY from the Motec manual
But I guess with all that REMOTE CONTROL TOY CAR experience you have, we should listen to you becuase that obviously trumps the experience base that I'm pulling my advice from.
#29
Engine, Not Motor
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When TitaniumTT is referring to crimping, he is referring to proper crimping and not the crimping done with hardware store but splices and a set of Vice Grips.
A proper crimp is fine and highly reliable. Tell me how many solder joints are found in the typical aircraft...none.
Proper means using a high quality crimping tool, and good crimp splices that have a heat shrinkable jacket and internal dielectric grease. Something almost no one does and hence the crimps become unreliable very quickly.
That said, proper soldering works fine as well. The key again is proper. The correct amount of solder, the correct amount of heat, and good heat shrink (adhesive lined) to make the physical connection needed and keep the joint protected. Soldering flux must also be removed.
A proper crimp is fine and highly reliable. Tell me how many solder joints are found in the typical aircraft...none.
Proper means using a high quality crimping tool, and good crimp splices that have a heat shrinkable jacket and internal dielectric grease. Something almost no one does and hence the crimps become unreliable very quickly.
That said, proper soldering works fine as well. The key again is proper. The correct amount of solder, the correct amount of heat, and good heat shrink (adhesive lined) to make the physical connection needed and keep the joint protected. Soldering flux must also be removed.
#30
Mac Attack
iTrader: (5)
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...vs-solder.html
I buy my electrical supplies from Waytek www.waytekwire.com
I buy my electrical supplies from Waytek www.waytekwire.com
#31
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
When TitaniumTT is referring to crimping, he is referring to proper crimping and not the crimping done with hardware store but splices and a set of Vice Grips.
A proper crimp is fine and highly reliable. Tell me how many solder joints are found in the typical aircraft...none.
A proper crimp is fine and highly reliable. Tell me how many solder joints are found in the typical aircraft...none.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...vs-solder.html
I buy my electrical supplies from Waytek www.waytekwire.com
I buy my electrical supplies from Waytek www.waytekwire.com
#32
Mac Attack
iTrader: (5)
Yeah, Delcity and TSC are also great places. Speaking of them, I've got a few of their catalogs hanging out under the table in the living room
Austin, keep the updates coming! Hopefully the thread I posted will change your perception of crimps I was also thoroughly surprised when I read it last year.
Austin, keep the updates coming! Hopefully the thread I posted will change your perception of crimps I was also thoroughly surprised when I read it last year.
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I get a phonecall about once a month from TSC telling me about thier specials. They're gonna love me when my buddies build picks up some steam.
I like TSC for the smaller stuff but for the bigger orders, Waytek is about 1/2 the price.
I like TSC for the smaller stuff but for the bigger orders, Waytek is about 1/2 the price.
#35
source for 12v ignition to the relay
Fan control sender sensor installed
Relay and wiring tucked away
Heres the VDO temp sender and gauge
Thats fine some prefer crimping and all... I personally prefer a clean solder job over crimps any day. I dont plan to have my wires be tugged at with 50 ibs of force on em nor do i expect open solder points to be seeing open weather environments anyways.. I would need to purchase the correct crimp tool and crimps if done that way.
Fan control sender sensor installed
Relay and wiring tucked away
Heres the VDO temp sender and gauge
Thats fine some prefer crimping and all... I personally prefer a clean solder job over crimps any day. I dont plan to have my wires be tugged at with 50 ibs of force on em nor do i expect open solder points to be seeing open weather environments anyways.. I would need to purchase the correct crimp tool and crimps if done that way.
#36
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Sigh
It's not just the tugging its the vibrations that kill a solder joint. The one that broke on me had 0 load on it..... EVER becuase of the way that it was ran and secured. It was the vibrations that killed that one.
It's not just the tugging its the vibrations that kill a solder joint. The one that broke on me had 0 load on it..... EVER becuase of the way that it was ran and secured. It was the vibrations that killed that one.
#39
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Also keep in mind, you always want to apply the tape in the direction its threading so as not to unravel the tape when threading in the item.
#41
Im thinking about installing a LED fan indicator light next to my water temp gauge, i can just tap a wire off the fan postive and feed it thru to the interior, and then typically ground the other side. Think 1 12v led will add any additional draw to the system?
*dont pay attention to the temps in this pic, was b4 i worked some kinks out
*dont pay attention to the temps in this pic, was b4 i worked some kinks out
#43
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Im thinking about installing a LED fan indicator light next to my water temp gauge, i can just tap a wire off the fan postive and feed it thru to the interior, and then typically ground the other side. Think 1 12v led will add any additional draw to the system?
*dont pay attention to the temps in this pic, was b4 i worked some kinks out
*dont pay attention to the temps in this pic, was b4 i worked some kinks out
#44
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
A 5-terminal relay is SPDT. All the terminals have a specific electrical purpose. There is no need to test anything.
86 and 85 are the coil. Ground one, supply 12v control voltage to the other and the coil is energized. In this case, Hypertek is using a grounding switch to activate the coil.
30= common. This is the power for the load; should be fused and directly from the battery or fuse block.
87=N/O or the Normally Open. This circuit is off until the coil is energized.
87A=N/C or the Normally Closed. This circuit is ON until the coil is energized.
A 4-terminal relay is SPST. It eliminates 87a or the N/C.
If you want to light an led when the fan runs, connect it to the 87, along with the fan load.
#45
Engine, Not Motor
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To add a bit of fuel to the fire, I have run across 5 terminal SPST relays before. It was seriously confusing when I installed one and everything acted wacky. After checking the relay, I found it was indeed a SPST 5 terminal relay. In fact, all of them I purchased in that batch were...
The LED as an indicator will work fine. Just make sure that it's connected to the relay trigger wire and not the fan motor. Otherwise when the fan freewheels it will generate electricity and the LED will be on anytime the car is moving.
Asking if the tiny current an LED uses will overload the system after just installing an e-fan worries me.
The LED as an indicator will work fine. Just make sure that it's connected to the relay trigger wire and not the fan motor. Otherwise when the fan freewheels it will generate electricity and the LED will be on anytime the car is moving.
Asking if the tiny current an LED uses will overload the system after just installing an e-fan worries me.
#46
thanks guys, i actually removed that 5 pin relay from the picture.. just using the fan controller since it uses its own relay.
Not sure how I would tap into that for the LED positive since you guys say that the fan free spinning might produce some current that might light it up if i tap into the fan power wire..
I probably wont even need the LED, just thought it would be a good idea to see that things work when driving.
Not sure how I would tap into that for the LED positive since you guys say that the fan free spinning might produce some current that might light it up if i tap into the fan power wire..
I probably wont even need the LED, just thought it would be a good idea to see that things work when driving.
#47
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Uh, no.
A 5-terminal relay is SPDT. All the terminals have a specific electrical purpose. There is no need to test anything.
86 and 85 are the coil. Ground one, supply 12v control voltage to the other and the coil is energized. In this case, Hypertek is using a grounding switch to activate the coil.
30= common. This is the power for the load; should be fused and directly from the battery or fuse block.
87=N/O or the Normally Open. This circuit is off until the coil is energized.
87A=N/C or the Normally Closed. This circuit is ON until the coil is energized.
A 4-terminal relay is SPST. It eliminates 87a or the N/C.
If you want to light an led when the fan runs, connect it to the 87, along with the fan load.
A 5-terminal relay is SPDT. All the terminals have a specific electrical purpose. There is no need to test anything.
86 and 85 are the coil. Ground one, supply 12v control voltage to the other and the coil is energized. In this case, Hypertek is using a grounding switch to activate the coil.
30= common. This is the power for the load; should be fused and directly from the battery or fuse block.
87=N/O or the Normally Open. This circuit is off until the coil is energized.
87A=N/C or the Normally Closed. This circuit is ON until the coil is energized.
A 4-terminal relay is SPST. It eliminates 87a or the N/C.
If you want to light an led when the fan runs, connect it to the 87, along with the fan load.
#48
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
BTW, Aaron, if the LED is wired in to the coil circuit and that circuit is made by a grounding temp switch like Hypertek is using, won't the LED remain lit any time the ignition key is on? How could you resolve that issue?
I do like the idea of a 'fan on' LED indicator located next to the temp gauge.
#49
Engine, Not Motor
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The LED will just have to be connected in a manner which makes sense based on the circuit. I didn't look at the circuit before I posted. Generally connecting it in parallel with the relay coil will do the job fine. Make sure to use an appropriate dropping resistor.
Yes, a spinning e-fan will easily power an LED if the LED is connected in parallel with the motor.
Yes, a spinning e-fan will easily power an LED if the LED is connected in parallel with the motor.
#50
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
I do have a quick question.. I bought the same fan controller except it's the radiator push probe one and not the one used here.. Can I simply cut the push probe off and connect and screw type probe? I think I could probably return this one I have but I don't know.. I think it's just be easier if I could just switch it.