Hybrid Turbo?
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Elkland, PA
Hybrid Turbo?
I recently picked up a TII and it came with a bunch of extra parts. One of them being a "hybrid turbo". All i can tell is the compressor housing is a .70 is this an increase over a stock S5 turbo or should i just get rid of it and get something better and of known make? The rest is all stock s5 parts.
The compressor housing isn't as important as the size of the compressor wheel. If you pull the cover and measure the inducer and exducer sizes, they can be compared to the stock turbo's measurements.
If you need more info on what the inducer and exducer are, take a look here: http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ma...ulator-174676/.
If you need more info on what the inducer and exducer are, take a look here: http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ma...ulator-174676/.
Nope, just remove the bolts going through the backing plate and the cover pops off. The entire wheel will be accessible. Also, draw a line across the seam, so you can properly clock the housing when you put it back on. Then apply a little bit of sealer around the edge when you bolt it back in place.
A "hybrid" turbo is one which was assembled with parts from two or more turbo models. Usually, this consists of a large T4 compressor attached to a small T3 turbine which allows the larger compressor to bolt directly on the smaller T3 mounting that is common on stock import cars. While this is rather ghetto, it can save a lot of money if it is made so as not to require an aftermarket manifold, downpipe, or external wastegate.
Keep in mind that regardless of which aftermarket turbo is used, you will probably need to buy upgraded fuel injectors, upgraded fuel pump, aftermarket boost gauge, some type of fuel computer, and a fuel cut defenser if the fuel computer does not offer this function. More serious turbos may also require an aftermarket manifold, aftermarket downpipe, external wastegate, upgraded intercooler, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, larger fuel lines and filter, upgraded radiator, etc. This can get pretty expensive.
Keep in mind that regardless of which aftermarket turbo is used, you will probably need to buy upgraded fuel injectors, upgraded fuel pump, aftermarket boost gauge, some type of fuel computer, and a fuel cut defenser if the fuel computer does not offer this function. More serious turbos may also require an aftermarket manifold, aftermarket downpipe, external wastegate, upgraded intercooler, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, larger fuel lines and filter, upgraded radiator, etc. This can get pretty expensive.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
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From: Elkland, PA
I do know i have to pay to play. I am looking into an rtek 2.1 and all the other supporting mods for the car. Along with a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and larger injectors with a walbro fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
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From: Elkland, PA
here is the measurements i came up with.
Exducer= 2.292
Inducer= 2.726
here is the formula with my measurements plugged in
(2.292)x(2.292)/(2.7262)x(2.7262)=.706931809
.706931809x100=70.69318091
This means that it is a 70 trim turbo right? how does this compare to stock?
Exducer= 2.292
Inducer= 2.726
here is the formula with my measurements plugged in
(2.292)x(2.292)/(2.7262)x(2.7262)=.706931809
.706931809x100=70.69318091
This means that it is a 70 trim turbo right? how does this compare to stock?
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In actuality it is almost as close to stock. The main thing that must be changed to make a significant change in your engines performance is to change the turbine a/r which means you would have to upgrade to a different turbo (a better option would be custom manifold and external wastegate if you want the most power). Depending on what your goals are for .. Having a higher turbine a/r will give you a little more boost lag while sacraficing low end torque in exchange for a higher peak performance in the upper rpm range.
Having a lower turbine a/r will give you more power and response in the low end making it torquey but at the higher rpm the there will be a significant power loss.
It all depends on what your goals are but in terms of your turbo the compressor all it might do is just give more cfm. Upgrading the turbine housing will show significant gains.
Having a lower turbine a/r will give you more power and response in the low end making it torquey but at the higher rpm the there will be a significant power loss.
It all depends on what your goals are but in terms of your turbo the compressor all it might do is just give more cfm. Upgrading the turbine housing will show significant gains.
Trim is a relative term, but these are the stock turbo's measurements:
Compressor inducer: 1.72" 43.68 mm
Compressor exducer: 2.48" 63 mm (48 trim)
from here (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/stock-turbo-wheel-size-818137/)
Looking at the chart of turbo sizes on Ted's site, your wheel should be a T04B H-trim, which is what the BNR stage 2 hybrid uses. It sounds like you also have a T04B compressor housing, which is what the stage 2 uses. It might just be a BNR; the only other thing it has, that you can't easily see is upgraded journal bearings for high boost. The stage 2 is good for around 300 whp.
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html
T04B H-trim measurements:
Compressor Inducer: 2.298"
Compressor Exducer: 2.750"
Compressor inducer: 1.72" 43.68 mm
Compressor exducer: 2.48" 63 mm (48 trim)
from here (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/stock-turbo-wheel-size-818137/)
Looking at the chart of turbo sizes on Ted's site, your wheel should be a T04B H-trim, which is what the BNR stage 2 hybrid uses. It sounds like you also have a T04B compressor housing, which is what the stage 2 uses. It might just be a BNR; the only other thing it has, that you can't easily see is upgraded journal bearings for high boost. The stage 2 is good for around 300 whp.
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html
T04B H-trim measurements:
Compressor Inducer: 2.298"
Compressor Exducer: 2.750"
rebuilding a turbo is actually not that hard. I rebuilt a stock S4 and a BNR S4 stage 2 turbo.
On the BNR the main thing was the bearings and the thrust spring. I didn't change the 360 bearing. I sent the wheels to gpop shop to be balanced.
On the BNR the main thing was the bearings and the thrust spring. I didn't change the 360 bearing. I sent the wheels to gpop shop to be balanced.
If you are re-using the compressor wheel and housing, make sure you scribe a mark on the compressor wheel behind the nut and a matching mark on the end of the shaft before you remove the nut so as to not get the rotating assembly out of balance. The rotating assembly spins anywhere from 100,000 to 140,000 rpm at full boost, so balancing is critical. When in doubt, you can have a local turbo shop balance it. I built my own hybrid and had it balanced locally for about $60. It's also a good idea not to re-use the nut. You can get a 360 degree thrust bearing and seal kit online that usually comes with a new nut. Peace of mind is a good thing
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