how to wire a master kill switch
#1
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how to wire a master kill switch
i have looked over the rules about relocating my battery to the back of the car and the book says that i must have a master kill switch.
i am woundering if i run the wire from the kill switch back to the engine fuse block should i split the wire using a fused distribution block and attach the wires like they are attached stock, one wire to the front, one wire to the back. or should i run one wire from the kill switch to the front or the back of the engine fuse block?
if anyone has wired in a kill switch that actually kills the car while its running please point me in a proper direction.
thanks alot all
i am woundering if i run the wire from the kill switch back to the engine fuse block should i split the wire using a fused distribution block and attach the wires like they are attached stock, one wire to the front, one wire to the back. or should i run one wire from the kill switch to the front or the back of the engine fuse block?
if anyone has wired in a kill switch that actually kills the car while its running please point me in a proper direction.
thanks alot all
#2
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You are going to need something like this. It comes with wiring instructions.
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=BE
You may also want to try posting in the race section if this doesn't answer your question.
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=BE
You may also want to try posting in the race section if this doesn't answer your question.
#3
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you could just run the wire to the main fuse box and put the switch in line with that but you could run the chance of the car still running off the alternator as well u could also run a line to that and put it in line behind the switch than run the line back to the alternator or instead of all that crap you could run a switch for you main ingintion and flip it and the car sould turn off that way you shouldnt need such a bich switch. but read up more im a little rusty on my electronics
#5
I wish I was driving!
Two ways I know of two wire them:
You MUST cut the battery positive. Don't cut the negative. You also must disconnect the power feed from the alternator, as the alternator will continue to power the car without the battery even in the car.
Method one: Use a single pole cut, rated for ~250 amps. Run a wire, 2 gauge minimum, from the battery positive to one terminal of the disconnect. To that same wire, run the cable from the alternator output. The, run a wire, 2G min., from the other pole of the switch to the main 100A fuse in the engine bay, and Tee off to the starter from there. Make sure you also wire a 250 or so breaker or fuse as close as possible to the battery positive.
Method Two: Use a double pole switch. Use the main power rated disconnects to cut the main battery line to the main 100A fuse. Put a jumper to the second terminal with 12V+ constant, and then from the other side run to a 30A relay, powered by the switched ignition, and out of that to a 250A relay. Painless sells them for $70. USe that relay to cut the line from the alternator to the main fuse panel.
I prefer method 2, since it gives less of a voltage drop to the main fuse panel when the car is running, and runs less heavy gauge wire.
There are a few other ways to do it for drag only cars, but these are the two main methods I know of for street power, high current usage cars.
You MUST cut the battery positive. Don't cut the negative. You also must disconnect the power feed from the alternator, as the alternator will continue to power the car without the battery even in the car.
Method one: Use a single pole cut, rated for ~250 amps. Run a wire, 2 gauge minimum, from the battery positive to one terminal of the disconnect. To that same wire, run the cable from the alternator output. The, run a wire, 2G min., from the other pole of the switch to the main 100A fuse in the engine bay, and Tee off to the starter from there. Make sure you also wire a 250 or so breaker or fuse as close as possible to the battery positive.
Method Two: Use a double pole switch. Use the main power rated disconnects to cut the main battery line to the main 100A fuse. Put a jumper to the second terminal with 12V+ constant, and then from the other side run to a 30A relay, powered by the switched ignition, and out of that to a 250A relay. Painless sells them for $70. USe that relay to cut the line from the alternator to the main fuse panel.
I prefer method 2, since it gives less of a voltage drop to the main fuse panel when the car is running, and runs less heavy gauge wire.
There are a few other ways to do it for drag only cars, but these are the two main methods I know of for street power, high current usage cars.
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