How to tell which AC compressor I have ? Plus how to recharge ?
06-08-09, 11:05 AM
#26
for example, the condenser, brand new from Mazda, part number fb01-61-480a , cost almost 500 bucks.
the de-hydrator/drier, part number 8572-61-510 , cost about 100 bucks (onlinemazdaparts.com)
Im still trying to locate the o-ring that Jack mention before ... hmm Im probably blind lol ! can't seem to find it in the parts manual.
06-08-09, 11:16 AM
#27
The o-ring he speaks of is the one in the access cap to fill the A/C system or evacuate it. It is located in the short tube that goes out of the A/C drier bottle as your 1st picture shows. Look at the drier bottle and then see the short S or Z shaped pipe coming out of it. There should be a cap there for servicing the system.
06-08-09, 03:15 PM
#29
The caps to the service ports-
Here are the service ports-they are found on the passenger side of the engine. One large tube with 1/4" flare fitting and one small tube with 3/16" flare tubing.
Pics provided.
06-08-09, 03:19 PM
#30
And just buy this kit-
It has all the orings you will ever be able to use.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=754356
It has a nice durable container with a little actual size picture on the back for each size. Just match up your old oring to the correct size then pull one out for a perfect match.
Easy.
It has all the orings you will ever be able to use.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=754356
It has a nice durable container with a little actual size picture on the back for each size. Just match up your old oring to the correct size then pull one out for a perfect match.
Easy.
06-08-09, 03:29 PM
#31
I guess you mean high pressure and Low pressure ports right ?
Anyway, I think Im going to get the freeze12 quick recharge kit. that should be enough right ? (3 12 oz can) , but when I look at the kit, it doesnt have any pressure gauge, how would I know how much charge do I have inside the system? so does that mean I have to get some sort of gauge myself ?
yeah I will head over to autozone later to get that set. 23 bux aint that bad.
Anyway, I think Im going to get the freeze12 quick recharge kit. that should be enough right ? (3 12 oz can) , but when I look at the kit, it doesnt have any pressure gauge, how would I know how much charge do I have inside the system? so does that mean I have to get some sort of gauge myself ?
yeah I will head over to autozone later to get that set. 23 bux aint that bad.
06-08-09, 03:53 PM
#32
I guess you mean high pressure and Low pressure ports right ?
Anyway, I think Im going to get the freeze12 quick recharge kit. that should be enough right ? (3 12 oz can) , but when I look at the kit, it doesnt have any pressure gauge, how would I know how much charge do I have inside the system? so does that mean I have to get some sort of gauge myself ?
yeah I will head over to autozone later to get that set. 23 bux aint that bad.
Anyway, I think Im going to get the freeze12 quick recharge kit. that should be enough right ? (3 12 oz can) , but when I look at the kit, it doesnt have any pressure gauge, how would I know how much charge do I have inside the system? so does that mean I have to get some sort of gauge myself ?
yeah I will head over to autozone later to get that set. 23 bux aint that bad.
You need to pull a *perfect* (29.5++)vacuum. You are going to *have* to use a manifold gauge set to hook up *anything* to the system.
You can rent or borrow a manifold gauge and vacuum pump.
Common practice is to add Freeze12 around 80-85% of the Specified amount of R12. This just happens to be 23.2 oz at 80% and 24.65 for 85%. Freeze12 is 12 oz cans. 2 cans=24 oz=full charge= close enough for us.
So it's easy-2 cans freeze12 into a *near perfect* vacuum. If you don't use a vacuum pump, the air in the system is considered 'non-condensable' because at our temps and pressures, it does not change from liquid to gas and gas to liquid. Your system will NOT work well with air in it. High pressures and low cooling will result.
You have to get the air out. Vacuum is the only legal way.
An illegal way, very old school and AGAINST FEDERAL LAW, is to use that third can as a flush. Add 1/3 of the can, let the system run 5 min, leak the gas out into the ozone. It will carry some of the air with it. Add another 1/3 of the can, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. It will take more air with it. Add the last 1/3, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. Most of the air is now gone with the leaked Freeze12. Charge normally. Back when refrigerant was cheap this is the way it was done on non-mobile refrigeration. It works on mobile as well. I haven't done it this way since I got a vacuum pump back in the...70's.
The vacuum pump also allows us to test the system for leaks. You really should do it this way.
You charge liquid into the system with Freeze12-it is a blend. Add the freeze12 in very slowly.
06-08-09, 08:50 PM
#34
Ok, listen very closely.
You need to pull a *perfect* (29.5++)vacuum. You are going to *have* to use a manifold gauge set to hook up *anything* to the system.
You can rent or borrow a manifold gauge and vacuum pump.
Common practice is to add Freeze12 around 80-85% of the Specified amount of R12. This just happens to be 23.2 oz at 80% and 24.65 for 85%. Freeze12 is 12 oz cans. 2 cans=24 oz=full charge= close enough for us.
So it's easy-2 cans freeze12 into a *near perfect* vacuum. If you don't use a vacuum pump, the air in the system is considered 'non-condensable' because at our temps and pressures, it does not change from liquid to gas and gas to liquid. Your system will NOT work well with air in it. High pressures and low cooling will result.
You have to get the air out. Vacuum is the only legal way.
An illegal way, very old school and AGAINST FEDERAL LAW, is to use that third can as a flush. Add 1/3 of the can, let the system run 5 min, leak the gas out into the ozone. It will carry some of the air with it. Add another 1/3 of the can, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. It will take more air with it. Add the last 1/3, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. Most of the air is now gone with the leaked Freeze12. Charge normally. Back when refrigerant was cheap this is the way it was done on non-mobile refrigeration. It works on mobile as well. I haven't done it this way since I got a vacuum pump back in the...70's.
The vacuum pump also allows us to test the system for leaks. You really should do it this way.
You charge liquid into the system with Freeze12-it is a blend. Add the freeze12 in very slowly.
You need to pull a *perfect* (29.5++)vacuum. You are going to *have* to use a manifold gauge set to hook up *anything* to the system.
You can rent or borrow a manifold gauge and vacuum pump.
Common practice is to add Freeze12 around 80-85% of the Specified amount of R12. This just happens to be 23.2 oz at 80% and 24.65 for 85%. Freeze12 is 12 oz cans. 2 cans=24 oz=full charge= close enough for us.
So it's easy-2 cans freeze12 into a *near perfect* vacuum. If you don't use a vacuum pump, the air in the system is considered 'non-condensable' because at our temps and pressures, it does not change from liquid to gas and gas to liquid. Your system will NOT work well with air in it. High pressures and low cooling will result.
You have to get the air out. Vacuum is the only legal way.
An illegal way, very old school and AGAINST FEDERAL LAW, is to use that third can as a flush. Add 1/3 of the can, let the system run 5 min, leak the gas out into the ozone. It will carry some of the air with it. Add another 1/3 of the can, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. It will take more air with it. Add the last 1/3, let the system run, leak the gas into the ozone. Most of the air is now gone with the leaked Freeze12. Charge normally. Back when refrigerant was cheap this is the way it was done on non-mobile refrigeration. It works on mobile as well. I haven't done it this way since I got a vacuum pump back in the...70's.
The vacuum pump also allows us to test the system for leaks. You really should do it this way.
You charge liquid into the system with Freeze12-it is a blend. Add the freeze12 in very slowly.
By the way, I have just one more question (for now
)Found this at Autozone :
Vacuum Pump
Gauge reads 0 to 30 inches of mercury. All aluminum construction with reverse pistol grip for easy one-handed operation. One 24 inch piece of clear plastic tubing included with pump.
OEM27010
Gauge reads 0 to 30 inches of mercury. All aluminum construction with reverse pistol grip for easy one-handed operation. One 24 inch piece of clear plastic tubing included with pump.
OEM27010
06-08-09, 10:10 PM
#35
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98076
And gauges like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92649
Sight glass charging is really intended to be used to 'top-off' a leaking R12 system. And it is really not a great idea. You cannot accurately use a sight glass on 134a, but it is useful on R12 (and 152a). If you charge till sight glass is clear w/134a you will have a big problem (bang).
The preferred method to charge is by weight into an empty system with full vacuum. That is why I mentioned that 2-12oz cans =a full charge on Freeze12.
For topping up, I like an 85* day, car in the shade, idle at 2000rpm, interior fan on low, set to recirculate. Add very small amounts of refrigerant till the system has charge enough to cycle the clutch. When the clutch kicks in, the low pressure will drop until it gets to about 20 psi, then the clutch cycles. This low pressure cut-out is 'antifreeze' protection. When the system cycles consistently at low, proceed to the next fan speed repeat the operation-on a FC go about 1/4 way up the slider. Then go to 1/2 speed. You should be able to attain a cycling clutch up to about 2/3 speed 2000 rpm on an 85* day, set to recirculate. That will be a pretty close charge on any refrigerant, R12 or Freeze12 or R152a.
06-08-09, 10:29 PM
#36
Ok, so I will go ahead and buy the pump
but the gauge you show me saids R134a, will it fit a R12 connector? cuz I thought they're different size ?
Also, I think I know where the leak is. I filled that sucker up (gas) today, while at gas station, I opened the hood up And look at it. it seems that one of the lines by the driver side head light has tons of oil/dirt/greasy thing on it. I wiped it a little bit. could that be the leak ?
I will try to take a picture tomorrow morning.
but the gauge you show me saids R134a, will it fit a R12 connector? cuz I thought they're different size ?
Also, I think I know where the leak is. I filled that sucker up (gas) today, while at gas station, I opened the hood up And look at it. it seems that one of the lines by the driver side head light has tons of oil/dirt/greasy thing on it. I wiped it a little bit. could that be the leak ?
I will try to take a picture tomorrow morning.
06-09-09, 10:18 AM
#37
Ok, so I will go ahead and buy the pump
but the gauge you show me saids R134a, will it fit a R12 connector? cuz I thought they're different size ?
Also, I think I know where the leak is. I filled that sucker up (gas) today, while at gas station, I opened the hood up And look at it. it seems that one of the lines by the driver side head light has tons of oil/dirt/greasy thing on it. I wiped it a little bit. could that be the leak ?
I will try to take a picture tomorrow morning.
but the gauge you show me saids R134a, will it fit a R12 connector? cuz I thought they're different size ?
Also, I think I know where the leak is. I filled that sucker up (gas) today, while at gas station, I opened the hood up And look at it. it seems that one of the lines by the driver side head light has tons of oil/dirt/greasy thing on it. I wiped it a little bit. could that be the leak ?
I will try to take a picture tomorrow morning.
Get a side can tap. It will connect to the gauges(yellow line) You can then remove the valves on the end of the red and blue lines. They will have a 1/4" connector. Or you can find a refrigeration place (http://www.ackits.com/c/RefrigerantG...astercool.html) and buy a professional gauge set.
You will also need a 3/16 to 1/4' adapter to connect to the high side- https://www.ackits.com/pc/90358/char...e+Port+Adapter
06-09-09, 10:34 AM
#38
You can also use Freeze-12 to save money without a major performance loss. Good stuff, look it up. Any proper refill should include a strong vacuum, leak check (e.g., some refrigerant added with UV/black-light sensitive dye, soap over the tubes to check for bubbles, or etc.) and refill. If you've had only a minor loss of cooling you can top it off with R-12 without vacuuming it. But don't add Freeze-12 to R-12 for environmental reasons; they can't recycle the R-12 later if you mix it with something else. Plus R-12 is worth its weight in gold since the ban on its production.
06-09-09, 12:35 PM
#39
You can also use Freeze-12 to save money without a major performance loss. Good stuff, look it up. Any proper refill should include a strong vacuum, leak check (e.g., some refrigerant added with UV/black-light sensitive dye, soap over the tubes to check for bubbles, or etc.) and refill. If you've had only a minor loss of cooling you can top it off with R-12 without vacuuming it. But don't add Freeze-12 to R-12 for environmental reasons; they can't recycle the R-12 later if you mix it with something else. Plus R-12 is worth its weight in gold since the ban on its production.
There is not an R12 ban except in industrialized nations. 'Developing nations' still produce and use R12 in huge quantities! This includes Mexico, China, Russia, India, Brazil. Note that this list includes over half of the world's population and some of the fastest growing economies. Remember how polluted Bejing was during the Olympics? This is pretty much the same 'rig the rules against the Western World' mentality as the pending 'carbon credit' scam. Should we stop venting R12? Yes. Should the rest of the world play by the same rules? Absolutely.
06-09-09, 01:34 PM
#40
Yes a good way to find a/c leaks is by spotting the oil residue and dirt associated with it..
Get a side can tap. It will connect to the gauges(yellow line) You can then remove the valves on the end of the red and blue lines. They will have a 1/4" connector. Or you can find a refrigeration place (http://www.ackits.com/c/RefrigerantG...astercool.html) and buy a professional gauge set.
You will also need a 3/16 to 1/4' adapter to connect to the high side- https://www.ackits.com/pc/90358/char...e+Port+Adapter
Get a side can tap. It will connect to the gauges(yellow line) You can then remove the valves on the end of the red and blue lines. They will have a 1/4" connector. Or you can find a refrigeration place (http://www.ackits.com/c/RefrigerantG...astercool.html) and buy a professional gauge set.
You will also need a 3/16 to 1/4' adapter to connect to the high side- https://www.ackits.com/pc/90358/char...e+Port+Adapter
https://www.ackits.com/pc/37-13205/M...ulator+-+Drier
I am thinking I should get this, cuz 18 bucks sounds a lot better than almost 100 bucks that Mazda wants for their stock drier. biggest concern is ------- will it really fit just like stock. anybody tried aftermarket/3rd party drier before ?
06-09-09, 02:07 PM
#41
This is the Vac pump I use. If you have a compressor it works GREAT
And I am with Jackchild, thats the exact manifold I use.
Also, the FSM recommends spraying the condenser with water every so often to get the head pressures down. Helps with suction to get the gas in there faster.
Also, market price on R 12 seems to be hovering around $75 a can.. Do you want to sell it to us @ $25 a can?
Rat
And I am with Jackchild, thats the exact manifold I use.
Also, the FSM recommends spraying the condenser with water every so often to get the head pressures down. Helps with suction to get the gas in there faster.
Also, market price on R 12 seems to be hovering around $75 a can.. Do you want to sell it to us @ $25 a can?
Rat
06-09-09, 03:41 PM
#42
This is the Vac pump I use. If you have a compressor it works GREAT
And I am with Jackchild, thats the exact manifold I use.
Also, the FSM recommends spraying the condenser with water every so often to get the head pressures down. Helps with suction to get the gas in there faster.
Also, market price on R 12 seems to be hovering around $75 a can.. Do you want to sell it to us @ $25 a can?
Rat
And I am with Jackchild, thats the exact manifold I use.
Also, the FSM recommends spraying the condenser with water every so often to get the head pressures down. Helps with suction to get the gas in there faster.
Also, market price on R 12 seems to be hovering around $75 a can.. Do you want to sell it to us @ $25 a can?
Rat
the best vacuum that thing can pull is 28"which will NOT remove moisture adequately or remove enough of the other contaminants, -and it beats the hell outta your compressor. My compressor is rated at 5.6 cuft. I ran one of those *once* for a friend to illustrate how weak they are. Hard on the air compressor for sure. For the few bux extra, just buy that small vacuum pump I linked to. You will never wear it out and the results will be much better.
What market are you looking at? If you buy a bulk, you can be around $16-17 per pound.
Just get your own 609 certificate, then you can buy it. Here are some links:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R12-R...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dupont-Freon-R12...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Foran...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Arcti...171|240%3A1318
06-09-09, 06:53 PM
#43
Rat-
the best vacuum that thing can pull is 28"which will NOT remove moisture adequately or remove enough of the other contaminants, -and it beats the hell outta your compressor. My compressor is rated at 5.6 cuft. I ran one of those *once* for a friend to illustrate how weak they are. Hard on the air compressor for sure. For the few bux extra, just buy that small vacuum pump I linked to. You will never wear it out and the results will be much better.
the best vacuum that thing can pull is 28"which will NOT remove moisture adequately or remove enough of the other contaminants, -and it beats the hell outta your compressor. My compressor is rated at 5.6 cuft. I ran one of those *once* for a friend to illustrate how weak they are. Hard on the air compressor for sure. For the few bux extra, just buy that small vacuum pump I linked to. You will never wear it out and the results will be much better.
What market are you looking at? If you buy a bulk, you can be around $16-17 per pound.
I know what you are saying about your equipment, but I can say from experience that what I have has worked on my wife's FC and several other cars, and its cost effective for the shade tree mechanic.
Rat
06-09-09, 09:45 PM
#44
Quite a lot of stuff to buy just to get the A/C working !
but hey I love working on my car ... with enough experience. Im going to take that ASE exam and become a certified mechanic
Oh one more thing, I took a picture today of the "what it seems to be the leak".
Here :
It was covered in black dirt/grease/oil/whatever, I wiped it a little bit (again).
it seems that its the line that goes into the compressor (or is it the other way around? the first line after the compessor ?)
Can anybody tell me which one is that in the picture?
it seems that its either the 61-466 , 61-462, 61-468, or 61-461 to me.
but hey I love working on my car ... with enough experience. Im going to take that ASE exam and become a certified mechanic
Oh one more thing, I took a picture today of the "what it seems to be the leak".
Here :
It was covered in black dirt/grease/oil/whatever, I wiped it a little bit (again).
it seems that its the line that goes into the compressor (or is it the other way around? the first line after the compessor ?)
Can anybody tell me which one is that in the picture?
it seems that its either the 61-466 , 61-462, 61-468, or 61-461 to me.
06-09-09, 10:13 PM
#45
you need to determine if it is leaking in the rubber hose or where the hose is crimped to the metal lines. This is the most likely thing. Less likely is the metal line leaking.
If it is the rubber, take it to a hydraulic hose repair place and they can replace the rubber part with the proper hose type and crimp it correctly to hold the pressure.
IOW, remove and repair the line-don't just buy a new line.
If it is the rubber, take it to a hydraulic hose repair place and they can replace the rubber part with the proper hose type and crimp it correctly to hold the pressure.
IOW, remove and repair the line-don't just buy a new line.
08-14-11, 11:18 AM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: indianapolis
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
listen to jackhild +1 for you . i do hvac for a living you will want to hold a vac around 28 and watch it hold 28 for like 30 min . if it drops there is a leak soomewhere or system might be too wet 134A will work. the metering device might be changed on evap. Now i have never done a 134a swap to my fc so i dont know much about it . i do know if do correctly 134a will work FY! release of R12 to atmo. can get you in deep **** 7 years imprison 250K in fines take it to a pro Bro.........
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
