How screwed am I?
11-01-05, 09:11 AM
#1
FC4ME
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How screwed am I?
Ok well i was going to wire open my 5th and 6ht ports, but they wouldnt move. So I decided to remove the sleeve and lube things up so it would function again. After removing the actuator from the port closest to the front bumper, I tried to remove the sleeve. When I twisted the sleeve it moved but then the piece exposed after you remove the actuator came out but the hole still has something in it. I think I may have broke something. How do I ago about fixing this or removing it so I can replace it.
Sry the pic is a little blury.
Sry the pic is a little blury.
11-01-05, 09:27 AM
#2
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You should start be removing the intake from the block so you can get a better look at it. I'm not sure if the control arm is removable from the intake though.
11-01-05, 09:42 AM
#3
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The actuator lever is riveted to the rod.
The rod is brazed to a short flex cable (like speedometer cable)
The cable is brazed to a short rod with a forked tip that turns the sleeve.
The forked tip is shaped so it can only go on one way.
does what you have in hand fit this description?
The rod is brazed to a short flex cable (like speedometer cable)
The cable is brazed to a short rod with a forked tip that turns the sleeve.
The forked tip is shaped so it can only go on one way.
does what you have in hand fit this description?
11-01-05, 10:15 AM
#5
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What you did was brake the servo horn off the end of the shaft......
to get the actual sleeve out, you have to remove the intake manifold.....
Now.. Here's what you do... you go to the Mazda dealer, you order a NEW Shaft AND the brass bushing that sits in the LIM.... AND a new gaskett, if your rear actuator is stuck as well, might as well replace it too...
NOW... you take the LIM off and pund the old rod out... this may require cutting the flexible portion of the rod off and then using a drift or punch to pund the solid portion out. The rods come with the servo horn brazed onto the end... so they have to go in from the outside.
Once the rod is out, then you turn it over and remove the bushing by using a deep well socket that fits inside the LIM hole, but is bigger than the hole in the bushing and beat that out.. then, the new bushing goes in from the rear. Then, Re-assemble!
While you have the LIM off, its also a good idea to remove the sleeves and clean the carbon off them. (why you would remove the LIM and NOT clean the sleeves is beyond me...)
If you want to keep driving the car... just get another LIM that has working actuators, buy a gaskett, and then swap out the LIM.
to get the actual sleeve out, you have to remove the intake manifold.....
Now.. Here's what you do... you go to the Mazda dealer, you order a NEW Shaft AND the brass bushing that sits in the LIM.... AND a new gaskett, if your rear actuator is stuck as well, might as well replace it too...
NOW... you take the LIM off and pund the old rod out... this may require cutting the flexible portion of the rod off and then using a drift or punch to pund the solid portion out. The rods come with the servo horn brazed onto the end... so they have to go in from the outside.
Once the rod is out, then you turn it over and remove the bushing by using a deep well socket that fits inside the LIM hole, but is bigger than the hole in the bushing and beat that out.. then, the new bushing goes in from the rear. Then, Re-assemble!
While you have the LIM off, its also a good idea to remove the sleeves and clean the carbon off them. (why you would remove the LIM and NOT clean the sleeves is beyond me...)
If you want to keep driving the car... just get another LIM that has working actuators, buy a gaskett, and then swap out the LIM.
11-01-05, 10:48 AM
#7
FC4ME
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Quick Q, the sleeves were not functioning before i decided to take everything apart. Is it safe for me to continue to drive the car like this on 4 ports until i get it fixed? (airpump is removed)
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11-01-05, 11:54 AM
#9
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BTW - When you get ready to pull the LIM, allow some time to deal with the LIM-to-engine gasket.
It can be a PITA if it splits & bonds to the engine.
I took 2 hours to scrape that gasket face clean. Then I reinstalled the LIM with RTV sealant.
It can be a PITA if it splits & bonds to the engine.
I took 2 hours to scrape that gasket face clean. Then I reinstalled the LIM with RTV sealant.
11-01-05, 01:00 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by RXgirl7
why do you want to wire your aux ports open? you wont gain any top end, all it does is kill what low end the car has.
2) something mechanical broke or froze and they are too godam cheap to fix the problem
3) they have an s4 with an open exhaust and there isn't eough backpressure to open the ports and they are either too cheap, to mechanically inept or do give a rats *** about the loss of low end that they don't install an alternative measure of opening the six ports (like a RPM switch and electric push/pull solenoids)
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 11-01-05 at 01:10 PM.
11-01-05, 01:02 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by 90WhiteVrt
Quick Q, the sleeves were not functioning before i decided to take everything apart. Is it safe for me to continue to drive the car like this on 4 ports until i get it fixed? (airpump is removed)
WAIT A GODDAM MINUTE>>>>>> AIRPUMP REMOVED???????
You have an S5.......... the 6-ports are operated BY THE AIR PUMP....... Thats why they are fuked in the first place.. when the airpump was removed, they stopped moving and froze shut..................
My apologies if you took the airpump off after you realized they were stuck.... BUT...... if you had any clue how many s5's ive seen with stuck 6-ports because the kid that owned it thought he'd gain some HP by removing the air pump....
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 11-01-05 at 01:06 PM.
11-01-05, 01:08 PM
#13
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...air pump removed...
- He lost the VDI also...
He's lucky if he makes 130 HP.
I deleted mine when the mounting bracket broke - twice.
Time for an electric air pump.
- He lost the VDI also...
He's lucky if he makes 130 HP.
I deleted mine when the mounting bracket broke - twice.
Time for an electric air pump.
Last edited by SureShot; 11-01-05 at 01:13 PM.
11-01-05, 01:15 PM
#14
FC4ME
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Ok I'd like to start by saying thankyou to everyone who helped, you've saved me alot of money and effort, especially cds00bsmg. He actually got on aim last night and helped me thru my problem. Now as for the rest of you...
The engine installed in my car had no air pump when I got it. I wanted to wire them open temporarily so that I didnt have such a high end power loss.
I have ordered an airpump, but it will probably be 2 weeks till I get it. This is now my daily driver and I dont want to drive around with the power loss. When the airpump comes in, then I will replace everything back to normal.
BTW: apologie accepted
why do you want to wire your aux ports open? you wont gain any top end, all it does is kill what low end the car has.
Because everybody is too godam cheap to fix things right when they break.
Its as simple as that
Its as simple as that
BTW: apologie accepted
11-01-05, 01:19 PM
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no aux ports, and no vdi? ouch...
mazda designed this system for a reason. when they function properly, the aux ports and vdi allow the car to have decent low end end, and great high end power and acceleration. they open at ~3800 rpm to allow more airflow through your powerband. this is also around the same time your secondary injectors kick in, so basically you are getting more air and fuel on the high end, for more power.
when the aux ports are stuck open all the time, it feels kinda like really bad boost lag...
mazda designed this system for a reason. when they function properly, the aux ports and vdi allow the car to have decent low end end, and great high end power and acceleration. they open at ~3800 rpm to allow more airflow through your powerband. this is also around the same time your secondary injectors kick in, so basically you are getting more air and fuel on the high end, for more power.
when the aux ports are stuck open all the time, it feels kinda like really bad boost lag...
11-01-05, 01:21 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by 90WhiteVrt
Ok I'd like to start by saying thankyou to everyone who helped, you've saved me alot of money and effort, especially cds00bsmg. He actually got on aim last night and helped me thru my problem. Now as for the rest of you...
The engine installed in my car had no air pump when I got it. I wanted to wire them open temporarily so that I didnt have such a high end power loss.
I have ordered an airpump, but it will probably be 2 weeks till I get it. This is now my daily driver and I dont want to drive around with the power loss. When the airpump comes in, then I will replace everything back to normal.
BTW: apologie accepted
The engine installed in my car had no air pump when I got it. I wanted to wire them open temporarily so that I didnt have such a high end power loss.
I have ordered an airpump, but it will probably be 2 weeks till I get it. This is now my daily driver and I dont want to drive around with the power loss. When the airpump comes in, then I will replace everything back to normal.
BTW: apologie accepted
Being that you bought the car in that condition.... show us a picture of the ACTUATORS....... I wanna make sure they didn't slap an s4 motor in that car......
11-01-05, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 90WhiteVrt
Ok I'd like to start by saying thankyou to everyone who helped, you've saved me alot of money and effort, especially cds00bsmg. He actually got on aim last night and helped me thru my problem. Now as for the rest of you...
The engine installed in my car had no air pump when I got it. I wanted to wire them open temporarily so that I didnt have such a high end power loss.
I have ordered an airpump, but it will probably be 2 weeks till I get it. This is now my daily driver and I dont want to drive around with the power loss. When the airpump comes in, then I will replace everything back to normal.
BTW: apologie accepted
The engine installed in my car had no air pump when I got it. I wanted to wire them open temporarily so that I didnt have such a high end power loss.
I have ordered an airpump, but it will probably be 2 weeks till I get it. This is now my daily driver and I dont want to drive around with the power loss. When the airpump comes in, then I will replace everything back to normal.
BTW: apologie accepted
11-01-05, 01:51 PM
#20
FC4ME
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Having trouble loading the pics, but I know it's an S5 motor. So, with the first actuator the way it is, I should be able to continue to drive it until it gets fixed being that there is no air pump to actuate it, right?
11-01-05, 03:05 PM
#21
it's s5, you can tell by the LIM in that first pic
and yeah driving should be fine you'll just run rich above ~3800 rpm because there won't be the air volume to match the fuel from your secondary injectors
i ran for a couple weeks with the exact opposite problem (injectors weren't working so i was really lean when my aux ports opened). the engine would sputter above 4500 so i just went easy on it.
and yeah driving should be fine you'll just run rich above ~3800 rpm because there won't be the air volume to match the fuel from your secondary injectors
i ran for a couple weeks with the exact opposite problem (injectors weren't working so i was really lean when my aux ports opened). the engine would sputter above 4500 so i just went easy on it.
Last edited by alexdimen; 11-01-05 at 03:09 PM.
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