I am currently running TOYO Proxes FZ4 225/50/15!

No false info here........ This setup worked with the stock suspension, and with ST springs and KYB shocks! I had some Goodyears before, same size as now wihtout any problems either!

BTW - Normal suspension on my 91NA (base model)

 

Nope I was talking NA S5 rims.

Nope again, I've been running them for over 5 years without any problem on my S5 NA 15X6 rims.

 

im running 235 up front that seem to work well

 

See how much they hit. You may be able to grind away a minimal amout for clearance.

 

This is just flat-out FALSE.

 

You will note that some tires at any given size will be a little wider or taller than others. Even tires by the same maker can very a little bit in size (that's how racers "discovered" the advantage of stagger).
I agree that you should see how much they lack o clear and look for an easy solution. Don't get too excited about getting wrong information, as you've read, some people are running 225s on their slicers with no problem.

 

Are you guys serious? Just 2 weeks ago i got 4 new tires, mounted on my stock GXL rims (15")

I purchased four sumitomo 225-50-15's the grand total was 290 plus tax. I have not had any rubbing problems whatsoever and i have driving my car hard and even driving with the wheels full locked right/left/


On my car they fit fine. why not on yours?

 

I run that size on my 'vert with stock BBS rims. You either have a tire with a sidewall that bulges too much, or your offset is different. Run a small spacer.

My tires are Yokohama AVS dB, and they have about 1/8" clearance.

 

Look at this as an opportunity. Baloney slicers weigh 16 pounds each but koseis, rotas, or oldstyle Enkei mesh weigh 12ish. Buy some nice rims with less offset than the slicers.

Hey, you had the base model. You did a five lug swap, didn't you? Maybe that has something to do with some people saying that 225s fit and you not finding that to be true on your setup.

 

Ok Id like to say sorry to all those I offended in this thread. When I went to the shop the guy tried to put it on and it wouldnt fit, but I didnt get to try. So today I checked and they fit FINE. Apparently the guy at the shop is a total basket case and doesnt know how to put on wheels.

He had it angling up so that the tire would hit the springs. Too bad he doesnt work today.

 

In case you didnt catch my drift earlier, I dont have very much cash to go spend on wheels.

 

*ignores Bdoty's smart remark*

What kind of tires are you using for your drag runs? And did you have any traction issues? I am aiming for the low 14 range (my goal) when I get my 87 base finished; you are in that range and I am wondering if slicks or drag radials would help . . . ?

 

The last time I went to the track I was running the stock tire size w/crappy all-season tires on my old stock 14s. I was also running without an LSD. Im going to the track tommorrow for highschool day and Ill get back to you on the results. But as of now I can definately feel a big boost in traction on launch. I can also just barely scratch 2nd gear now and I used to be able to scratch 3rd.

PS-I wasnt being a smartass, just honest.

 

im in a predicament also
i ahve 18's but have to run 215 because 225 will rub against the drop springs i have but then if i put spacers it will rub against my wheel wel, so what can i do???
hard decision here

 

I would go with 16's or better yet, 15's. 18" rims make it necessary to run very thin profile tires to remain close to the stock diameter (for gearing) and thin profile tires do not flex as much during launch. Pro drag cars will wrinkle up the sidewalls of their rear slicks on a good launch, and their slicks have a very fat profile to allow this. Most 18's are really heavy, too. Stock base model rims with tires weigh about 30 pounds each. If you increase in weight when getting aftermarket rims / tires you will accelerate slower and have higher unsprung weight, which will make it hard for the car to stay planted to the pavement when there are any minor dips in the road.

I am hoping to get some slicks for my project and run 15" or even 14" rims. The trick is to remain no more than 24.5" in diameter to keep that 4.1 rear axle ratio intact. My auto-x tires have a 23" diamater, making my real axle effectively a 4.3 ratio like the GTUs when I have them mounted.

 

Im surprised no one has mentioned getting camber plates and such.

Of corse your car will be out af alignment after you install the stuff but heres what you can do.

If you can get positive camber where the strut bolts to the a-arm then the tire will move away from the spring altogether.

Then you have to adjust camber at the top of the shock tower to get back your negative camber.

You wont be able to make too much adjustment with the stock nuts and bolts, you may have to so some grinding and possible purchase camber kit.

 

i did almost the same when my rim was castering badly
now i can move it in or out whatever way i want
that was in the front, im not suyre how it will work in the back though

 

You don't need anything special. I have 235/60's on my phone dials. I would think that putting them on GXL wheels would be easier.

 

My 225's rub under hard cornering up front too. I think it depends on the tires.

 

well i guess if i wanna run 225 or even 235 up front i will have to get some 17s or even smaller
im actually looking for an extra set of rrims in gun metal or black... then maybe i can run that without having to raise my car up

 

just get a dinky little spacer made for your hub/wheel setup.. there's plenty of room to move the wheels OUT, but no room to move them IN any. I've got 225/50/R16's on my TurboII and they BARELY fit (like I can't even fit my pinky in there). If I knew they were gonna be that close I might have got something else like 205's up front, 225's rear, but 225's all around seem to fit fine, so I'm sticking to it.

 

well if i put 225 with spacers it will be rubbing badly

my set up now is 215\35\18 front and back 265/45/18
the back already has spacers and fits good
front in a different story