How to: Replace Injector O-rings and grommets
How to: Replace Injector O-rings and grommets
Well this weekend I had to dug in to find and fix my fuel leak along with doing the vacuum spider removal and throttle body mod and figured I would do a write up on what I found, since it is not well known that bad injector grommets cause a vacuum leak and can be a cause of a bad idle, not to mention a fuel leak will cause you to catch on fire.
The reason I knew I had a leak was that when I was under boost, when fuel pressure was high I could smell fuel and notice puddles forming at the bottom of my manifold. So here it goes:
*I am not responsible for any damage done to your car due to information from this thread*
First of all, before everything, get the O-rings and grommets. I found out on saturday that mine were leaking and went through HELL to find them, MAZDA, ADVANCE, AUTOZONE, and Federated did not have them through their computer and had to order them, but through my parts experience (ex advance employee) I crossed part numbers that other stores gave me and guess what, the Federated part number crosses over to a perfect kit advance sells from Beck Arnley that retails for 6.50 a piece. You need one kit per injector and you are good to go.
Part #158-0372

1.-Disconnect all clamps and bolts to the intercooler along with vacuum hoses (2 at top) and remove intercooler.

2.-Unplug all sensors the the upper intake manifold and disconnect all related vacuum lines and unbolt throttle cable bracket and other brackets from manifold, then proceed toremove throttle cable and cruise control cable if so equipped. Unbolt manifold from LIM and tap with hammer, the ressonance will break it clean and without messing up the gasket. Separate manifolds. Stick a rag on the LIM to make sure nothing gets dropped in there.

3.-Now you see the upper and lower fuel rails, I will only show the secondaries because those are the ones I did at the time. Remove fuel lines to the rail you are doing, if you didnt depresurize the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump plug to kill the car fuel will squirt out for a bit but it'll be ok if it does as long as you clean it up. Unbolt the fuel rails and carefully pull up on it, the injectors should come out of their hole. Pull off the old cruddy o-ring and grommets of the injectors and replace with the new ones, PLEASE OIL THEM BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN, it keeps them from tearing. The picture here is from before and then after
Before
After
4.-As you can see that was simple and they didnt even need to be unplugged to do. Now would be a GREAT time to replace your old dried up fuel line, if you even managed to get them off without cutting them.
Assemble all lines, use NEW CLAMPS, do not reuse the old constant tension garbage clamps. Bolt up the fuel rail and make sure injectors are seated.Now we will test your system for leaks by presurizing it. With all lines hooked up, turn the key to on and jump the connection on the fuel pump jumper and listen for fuel, if you dont hear flow you probably forgot to hook it back up after you took it off to kill your car. Jump the connector like this:

5.-If you have no leaks, and hopefully you dont, its time to put the upper intake back on. Get a little bit of rtv and put a thin coat on top of the LIM with you finger to seal minor gaps, if you tore the gasket you are SOL and replace it.
Snug up tight, but DO NOT overtighten the manifold. Hook up all vacuum lines and hook up all connectors, along with the throttle cable bracket and throttle cable. Don't forget the coolant lines to the BAC if you still have it.

6.-Now go over everything AGAIN and then put on Intercooler and voila, ready to roll once again.

Hope this helps a lot of you out. I tried to make it as detailed as possible. Thanks for looking.
Renzo
The reason I knew I had a leak was that when I was under boost, when fuel pressure was high I could smell fuel and notice puddles forming at the bottom of my manifold. So here it goes:
*I am not responsible for any damage done to your car due to information from this thread*
First of all, before everything, get the O-rings and grommets. I found out on saturday that mine were leaking and went through HELL to find them, MAZDA, ADVANCE, AUTOZONE, and Federated did not have them through their computer and had to order them, but through my parts experience (ex advance employee) I crossed part numbers that other stores gave me and guess what, the Federated part number crosses over to a perfect kit advance sells from Beck Arnley that retails for 6.50 a piece. You need one kit per injector and you are good to go.
Part #158-0372

1.-Disconnect all clamps and bolts to the intercooler along with vacuum hoses (2 at top) and remove intercooler.

2.-Unplug all sensors the the upper intake manifold and disconnect all related vacuum lines and unbolt throttle cable bracket and other brackets from manifold, then proceed toremove throttle cable and cruise control cable if so equipped. Unbolt manifold from LIM and tap with hammer, the ressonance will break it clean and without messing up the gasket. Separate manifolds. Stick a rag on the LIM to make sure nothing gets dropped in there.

3.-Now you see the upper and lower fuel rails, I will only show the secondaries because those are the ones I did at the time. Remove fuel lines to the rail you are doing, if you didnt depresurize the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump plug to kill the car fuel will squirt out for a bit but it'll be ok if it does as long as you clean it up. Unbolt the fuel rails and carefully pull up on it, the injectors should come out of their hole. Pull off the old cruddy o-ring and grommets of the injectors and replace with the new ones, PLEASE OIL THEM BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN, it keeps them from tearing. The picture here is from before and then after
Before
After4.-As you can see that was simple and they didnt even need to be unplugged to do. Now would be a GREAT time to replace your old dried up fuel line, if you even managed to get them off without cutting them.
Assemble all lines, use NEW CLAMPS, do not reuse the old constant tension garbage clamps. Bolt up the fuel rail and make sure injectors are seated.Now we will test your system for leaks by presurizing it. With all lines hooked up, turn the key to on and jump the connection on the fuel pump jumper and listen for fuel, if you dont hear flow you probably forgot to hook it back up after you took it off to kill your car. Jump the connector like this:

5.-If you have no leaks, and hopefully you dont, its time to put the upper intake back on. Get a little bit of rtv and put a thin coat on top of the LIM with you finger to seal minor gaps, if you tore the gasket you are SOL and replace it.
Snug up tight, but DO NOT overtighten the manifold. Hook up all vacuum lines and hook up all connectors, along with the throttle cable bracket and throttle cable. Don't forget the coolant lines to the BAC if you still have it.

6.-Now go over everything AGAIN and then put on Intercooler and voila, ready to roll once again.

Hope this helps a lot of you out. I tried to make it as detailed as possible. Thanks for looking.
Renzo
when i did mine the kit i got off ebay had new filters and pintle caps too. U have to use a screw to remove the filter and i used a lighter to heat the pintle caps to get them on. Might as well do this too cause the injectors are already out. The kit i got all four injector o rings and grommets as well as pintle caps and filter. Had extras too in case u broke something. It only cost 30 shipped. I used the turbo kit on an N/A i figured it was the same cause everything fit when i got it haha.
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