How to Rebuild a Stock HT-18 Turbo & Build a Hybrid
#79
Purple power is a mix of two strong bases (sodium hydroxide and sodium metasilicate), so it's not something you want to use on aluminum parts. The cast portion of the CHRA should be ok (iron I believe), but bearings, the compressor back plate and associated parts should not be exposed to it. Honestly, you'll probably be better off with an organic solvent mixture like brake cleaner. It'll take care of the grease, but not react with certain metals.
MSDS: http://www.clean-rite.com/msds/Purpl...wer%202010.pdf
MSDS: http://www.clean-rite.com/msds/Purpl...wer%202010.pdf
#80
Re-Mama Mia!
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I'm planning on running a 60-1 compressor wheel with matching T04b backing plate and.60 a/r comp housing. My question pertains to the turbine wheel. Will I be alright leaving it just as it is? I've read that people typically have the turbine clipped to reduce back pressure/help with boost creep. Where can i have it clipped? Is it necessary to take them to specialized turbo shops?
#81
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^I just sent my turbine shaft and compressor wheel to BNR for clipping and balance.
I was initially against the idea of clipping. But I guess a little bit of lag is a just small sacrifice if it means you'll be keeping your boost levels under control.
I was initially against the idea of clipping. But I guess a little bit of lag is a just small sacrifice if it means you'll be keeping your boost levels under control.
#85
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Yeah its not a bad at all, considering most places will charge ~$60 for just a balance anyway.
All I had to send was the Turbine wheel/shaft, the Compressor wheel and nut, and a 270-degree thrust collar.
All I had to send was the Turbine wheel/shaft, the Compressor wheel and nut, and a 270-degree thrust collar.
#86
Turbo power, activate!
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This happened to me 2 weeks ago...
I forgotten to tighten it an extra 1/4 turn *major face palm*, nut came off and bounced around like a pinball.
The wheel is fused to the turbine shaft or something, its damn hard to take off.
Now I need another 60-1 wheel and a to4b housing for it and attempt this hybrid again lol
I wonder if BNR will machine out the stock S5 turbine to fit a Ptrim wheel for me...
I forgotten to tighten it an extra 1/4 turn *major face palm*, nut came off and bounced around like a pinball.
The wheel is fused to the turbine shaft or something, its damn hard to take off.
Now I need another 60-1 wheel and a to4b housing for it and attempt this hybrid again lol
I wonder if BNR will machine out the stock S5 turbine to fit a Ptrim wheel for me...
#90
Turbo power, activate!
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I guess that extra 1/4 turn really made the difference....
On my stock turbo rebuild, I did the 1/4 turn and a month of 12 psi and drag racing, it is fine.
Lesson learned, always 1/4 turn it. According to Gpop, its a 1/8 turn if the threads are counterclockwise to tighten.
#92
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Alright guys, I just bought a turbo for super cheap off ebay and measured the compressor wheel. 70mm compressor exducer, 45.6mm compressor inducer. The inducer seems too small to make any kind of a hybrid, but I wanted to check with you guys first. Any thoughts?
#95
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I accidentally had my wheel clipped when I built my hybrid. When I took it to have balanced they did it without asking. I really dont like the lag but I have gotten used to it. I was hoping I can compensate for it with a stronger wastegate actuator but I have yet to remove the turbo to install one.
#98
H-trim with matching compressor housing is a BNR stage 2. The problem will be finding a donor turbo with this wheel. They're not common, so you're pretty much left having to get the housing machined to match.