I ordered an OEM exedy clutch kit and just wondering how much power it will hold since I will have a bit more power than stock.

I've read that stock Mazda oem clutch is good up to 350 HP but upon some research I'm not quite sure.

My car should have around 250-280 HP at the flywheel.

Mods as follows:

Full turbo-back exhaust (3" I believe but down pipe looks like 2.5", rtek 1.7 , walbro255 lph, 550cc primaries/720 CC secondaries, stock airbox, a5 Turbo, Should run 10-12 psi

 

Why not just go to the source and ask Exedy?

 

My recommendations:
1) Contact Exedy. They are a top supporter of the rotary engine community.
2) Next time, research the parts BEFORE you buy them.

FYI, the Exedy Stage 1 (non-HD) is rated for 237 lb-ft WTQ, so the OEM clutch will be less than this.

 

I asked and they said they have no.torque ratings and its meant for stock cars and.not performance , I.found this out after I already ordered it >.<

 

I have a stock N/A clutch that is holding essentially your setup (S5 turbo, S4 N/A motor, Haltech), as well as I've heard this from others. An aftermarket turbo clutch from a reputable company shouldn't have problem, but I can't guarantee that.

 

I'll have 240 whp Max (10-12 psi on stock Turbo) so torque will be 200-220 wtq if I had to guess.

 

Even Exedy didn't care enough to test it. There is not going to be a number.
Just another data point: S5 TII's uses a smaller diameter clutch and that engine is rated at ~200 lb-ft.

 

If it helps I did a second gear burnout the other day and killed mine. Collapsed the cover apparently. I don't know power figures but all I have is 3inch turbo back to 2 1/2 at the y and a front mount and boosting 9psi. Granted its probably old as hell.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using RX7Club

 

I'm using a a exedy OEM NA clutch (NA drivetrain) on my turbo engine (S4 engine, s5 turbo). It's holding okay, so with a turbo clutch you should be fine in my opinion.

 

As far as I know, the only reputable aftermarket clutch company that documents their products torque capacities is ACT. There may be others out there, but I know that ACT's numbers are proven to be factual if not slightly conservative for the sake of reliability.

This is the entire reason why I went with an ACT clutch on my 20B FC instead of one from Exedy or another no-name brand. It is rated to hold 330 ft.lbs and I fully expect it to deliver as advertised.

 

I'd of purchased a stronger clutch if I thought it'd be a major concern, if I decide it is ill return this one when I.get it and get the next stage up.
Starting to think I should.

 

ACT is a no-name brand when compared to Exedy. However, ACT does make good products, despite its small size. Exedy documents all of their clutches except for the OEM models. Below is a link to the Exedy racing clutch catalog with the torque ratings.
EXEDY Globalparts Corporation | High Performance and OEM Clutches and Flywheels

A well-tuned stock-port 20B peaks at about 340 lb-ft at 10psi boost. I'm hoping that your engine will be less than this.

 

Alright guys, I decided that I definitely need at least a stage 1 exedy and cancelled my order for the oem clutch hopefully it cancels okay.

The stage one I've found for $347 , the stage 1 hd i've found for $374 , I can either pay $200 more for the stage one or $230 more for the hd.

Unless anyone knows any other brands that work well and won't fail that are cheaper, I've checked act but they're even more expensive and I refuse to use some cheap ebay brand.

I've seen spec have good prices , but I question their quality and longevity.

 

I haven't heard anything good about Spec clutches. Stick with Exedy and you'll be fine.

 

in the past i have found that Exedy and ACT are the 2 companies that underrate their clutches. if you want snappier clutch engagement though you can always upgrade for purposes like drifting or drag racing where the stock rated clutch will be a little less forgiving, but it will hold fine once the clutch is fully engaged. i use a stock specification clutch in my TII and it handles roughly 280wtq if i don't power shift or launch it.

even the stock clutch will easily handle what a stock turbo can put out at its maximum efficiency.

spec overrates their clutches and why i despise using them, overpriced garbage. their stage 2+ 425wtq clutch began slipping at about 300wtq, this was after the clutch had already fully engaged and was spinning up on the dyno. if we slipped the clutch for a pull or 2 it would heat up enough to do 1 full run. if a stage 2+ spec can't handle a single turbo FD pushing 360whp/325wtq then IMO they are worthless. i bet even those chinese ebay clutches outperform the spec clutches..

 

I ended up getting an exedy stage 1 heavy duty, its more then I need but I don't mind.

Its rated for 311wtq but that's with a 25% safety factor

Rotary > Pistons

 

I had an $88 ebay aftermarket clutch kit on my old T2 that dyno'd 465rwhp, and it held just fine. It would slip for the first half a second of each hard shift, especially the 1-2 shift, but otherwise it did fine until it got pretty hot (several WOT runs in a row). It's not usually power that overcomes a clutch, but launching and shifting techniques. Or, put another way, the need for a heavy duty clutch is usually overrated by owners of rotary engines. Some of our cars make less torque than a stock honda civic, so unless you're purposely driving it hard there's no reason you need a type R stage 4 copper carbon ceramic kevlar clutch rated to 891tq.

 

except when you buy a spec clutch, because they can't even hold a fraction of that power even if you baby the **** out of the clutch.

 

I just wanted something I know is high quality and will last, while being good clutch for a variation of driving since I would like to hit the track someday---having the better clutch should and will make a difference when used in competition.

Rotary > Pistons

 

Not to be mean, but do you sit around and think up ways to find the most difficult possible route from where you are to where you want to be?

 

You are the biggest negative nancy on the forum...but with great knowledge to go with it.

I know proper shifting and clutch engagement blah blah...but I'd be concerned about the parts behind the clutch being damaged due to the abrupt engagement of some of the higher end clutches.

 

It will be the first high end clutch I've had other than a center force dual friction and I didn't really like that one , I want something nice.

Whats so bad about wanting something nice, already got enough money in my car, I'd rather use something I can be proud of instead of using the cheapest part I can get.

This is the nicest , highest performance car I've ever had, maybe to others its just a Roach but to me its alot more than that.

Rotary > Pistons

 

At the Rx7 Club..we "oooooze" excitement..lol!

Straight down a couple blocks,,you'll see it..

SO?..I go 3 blocks up,turn right,turn right,turn right,Turn right????..can I do it that way?..some guy said that would be Ok to do.I just want to be sure as I may miss it.
Will it still be in the same place when I get there?

Gotta love the Forum!..Yep..lotsa love!..Now hug me and get me a sammich!

 

i thought i was the biggest negative nancy... but i agree with that mentality. it's best to upgrade once than 2-3 times a year or 2 down the road.

for street driving a stock clutch is fine, even for moderately modified cars. when you need to power shift or launch that is when the weaknesses will present themselves and a puck clutch or stiffer PP is needed.

 

I had a very similar combination as you, and never had an issue with the oem exedy clutch. It was only until after I upgraded to a t04b v-trim hybrid that I realized I should have gotten a stronger clutch. With a stock engine and turbo with only intake and exhaust mods, the oem exedy will be completely fine unless you drive around like an idiot.