I know everyone has seen the 50/75/100/125+ faq on nitrous, but thats just a generic faq, can a 6 port really handle a 125 shot without dying on you?

 

Depends on a LOT of other things. If you give it enough fuel & retard the timing appropriately, sure. The 6 port engines, with boost, can make a lot of power. It's not the power that's the problem, it's making sure everything else (fuel, ignition) are managed properly.

-=Russ=-

 

try it and let us know. I have only seen a 50 shot work with a upgraded fuel pump, 720cc secondaries, and a SAFC. I only saw the guy a few times around here and he told me he had ran thru about 6 bottles and loved it.

 

Yo.
Can a 6 port really handle 125 shot without dying? Yes.
How do I know?
Been there, done that, and far beyond.

Its rarely a question of: can the motor handle it?
Its always a question of: Can the parts bolted to the engine handle it? Drivetrain, fuel system, and auxilary port control being of the uppermost importance.
I see you were asking about nitrous on the MS forums. The controls for nitrous seem very well laid out in the MS software and should eliminate a bunch of costs associated with installing nitrous on a 6 port engine. I'll be building an MS in January and trying it out with a large nitrous shot.

 

Guy in mississauga used to run 150 shot on a stock 6port. No idea of the specifics of his set up. He said he never had any problems. Would I try it? Sure if I had my spare engine ready.LOL

Brent

 

yea yea yea yea no no no no thats all evryone ever hears on reguards to N2O.

SIMPLE post us your mods and controls and type of N2O system and we can tell you if it can handle it all out not.

Above all it is totaly based on your tune and setup!I mean damn 200shot no prob with proper tune.

 

I'd be worried about the drivetrain if I were you. That's why I ultimately decided to scrap using nitrous on my N/A... it's a daily and I would eventually be busting ****.

 

my bro popped his with a 45 shot. he had all the supporting mods and had it tuned correctly by a local shop. dont know why it went but that car did not like the n2o. just go turbo, its cheaper in the long run. i was running a 75 shot in my probe and i was going through $50 a week on that 10lb bottle and would run out every time some punk would pull up in a civic. didnt do me any good except that i could run a 14.2 with it. that isnt too bad concidering im at 5800 ft.

 

What shop was it? I know alot of turbo and NA guys that have their engines popped at a reputable shop. Maybe he wasn't all to knowledgeable about nitrous nor was the shop? What where his "supporting" mods?

$50 in a week? My friend uses $50 a month. Maybe you should quit streetracing?

 

45 Shot...That has bad tunning written all over it. And too whoever said that using n20 on a 6 port n/a is useless...lol well That is the ignorant newb comment of the day.

 

im wanting to run a 50 shot with a 10lb bottle but my setup right now is mainly stock. im running an safcII right now and as of next week im going to have my TB modded. as of the tranny im debating if it would be worth it to do a miata swap, and wondering if it could hold up.

 

From what i read in other threads, the miata tranny si just a fragile as the fc n/a tranny.

 

thanks. do you also know if my car can take a 50 shot

 

if you upgrade to walbro fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator and get a 460/720 or 550/720 injector combo with a SAFC and some dyno time and I bet you would be fine.

 

If you do the fuel pump upgrade and run a "WET" system, you should be ok... remember that the fuel pump also probably will outflow the stock FPR so it will run a little richer at idle than normaly once it sits for a few secs...

these were both stated by bukwild and I agree here...

however, i do not think that upgraded injectors are near necessary if you run a wet kit as the "fogger" nozzle will inject the extra fuel required...

- chris

 

Heres my scoop

My brother used to run a dry 50 shot on my car when it was his.
He had no mods other than intake and exhaust, the car was stock.
All he would do, was up the octane to 91 so he could run it.
The intake was just a generic cone filter, but the exhaust was a straight pipe, from the manifold to the race muffler.
It was a zex kit set up to respond to the throttle, and the nozzle was put in the rubber intake pipe right after the AFM.

He ran a 24 pound botle, 10 lbs of nitrous to each bottle. The engine had about 155k on it, and he ran through about 6 or 7 bottles.

The car is still fine now, I'm about to roll 185k miles, and it's still running strong, not burning coolant or lots of oil. The car took the beating without a problem.

The only thing that blew was the tranny, and that was a year after I sold the kit.

From my experience, yes, You CAN run a 50 shot without any serious mods.

 

dont like nitrous... its like steriods... fake power

 

Who cares what you think.
Your worthless opinion wasn't asked for.
You have no experience in this subject, so you bring nothing to this topic.

Thanks for being useless.

 

To answer the original question:

300 hp shots are not impossible. The engine can take it just fine.
It ALWAYS comes down to tuning, control, and the drivetrain taking the torque.

 

I'm putting that in my signature.

Also Sean, we dyno'd a CRX and got 38HP to the wheels after a 50HP shot. I was wondering what kinda reaction's does an FC get from a dyno?

 

What jets were you running in the crx? Fuel pressure and nitrous pressure?
That seems pretty low for a 50 shot.

Generally, with a "50 shot" Nitrous jet, and the correctly correspodning fuel jet, you should see pretty close to 50 to the tires. Usually, its between 45-55 hp, depending on a ton of factors.
Actual power gain to the flywheel is signifcantly higher.

Example: NOS reccommends a 37 jet for nitrous with a 22 jet for fuel for their 50 shot. This should put down 60 hp to the flywheel. With our average 15-17% drivetrain loss at stockish power levels, you should be seeing 50-51 or so hp to the tires.
Engine dyno's followed by chassis dyno's will show this, pretty damn precisely, too.

Then again... it could just be the dyno you were using.
But if I were tuning that system, I would look for inadequate bottle pressure for the jet sizes, or incorrect jettings, both of which would show up on the AFR log.

 

I didn't get to see alot of the stuff before installed but it was the Holley kit for the CRX (or what I was told, swiped it from a friend). So it was everything that Holley gave us in the kit, so whatever jets they had.

It was on a dynojet.

 

Bottle pressure was likely too low then.
You need to maintain 900-950 psi. This is why I ALWAYS reccommend a bottle heater.
The NX one is really nice, since it monitors bottle pressure and adjusts the heater accordingly.

 

do i really need a bottle heater in the summer cause thats when i usually run my car. during the colder months i store it

 

Had a bottle heater and it was a constant 900-950 PSI the entire time according to my gauge. Maybe something was fucked.