JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Ok ive read the writeup in the archive and on aaroncake's site, but my real question is how much do I need to port my wastegate?Or is it just the bigger the better, cause i read somewhere that if you make it too big it will bypass to much exhaust and your boost will drop down. So do i need to make it to the end of the stock flapper or go larger and weld a new flapper on? As for my intake and exhaust mods they are 2.5 in exhaust from the stock dp back, no main cat, a true cai routed to the fender well, and 3in tid i also am running the rtek 1.7 with the 720cc sec injectors, so i plan to raise the boost up quite abit over stock!!

So wat should i do???

Help me out quick cause i was planning on doing this today...

Thanx

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The bigger, the better. My writeup mentions up to about 35MM or so, but you can go larger if you are willing to make the casting thinner.

For the most part, a larger wastegate should not effect your boost if you have an open exhaust and intake. Worst case, just add a boost controller.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Ok thanx man, i was thinking that if you went too big your boost would drop off or something, but i guess the bigger the wastegate the less boost control... btw good writeup on your page....

Thanx

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The bigger wastegate, the more control you have over your boost.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Also how did yall persuade yalls turbo to spin so you can get at the bots underneath the oil passages? ive got like three of the 6 out and ive put some good ol aero croil penetrating oil on there and the thing still wont spin around??!!!! its getting frustrating...

thanx Aaron

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Put a wrench on it (not the open end) and hit it with a hammer.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

put a wrench on wat? and after you get it to spin u just take out the remaining bots and it just separates from the rest and pulls off? ive already hit it with a hammer and it dosent budge, but want am i hitting?

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

i cant get the thing to move for the life of me maybe im not doing something right but ive whooped on the hot side forever now and it wont spin even a lil, does someone kno of an easier way to do this or are they just this sttuborn??!!!!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Oh, you are trying to rotate it to clear the bolt from the flange...

Basically I generally just beat on the hotside a little with a hammer to sperate the bond between it and the center section. That always works. If yours is really stuck, then spray lots of penetrating lube between the two pieces and then heat the turbing housing. Respray the lube when it is hot and try again to remove.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Finally got it to come off, i just kept unscrewing the two bolts under the oil passeges and they pryed the hot side off, it was pretty easy that way, thanx for the help aaron, also od you have any suggestions about the porting itself? It will be underway tomarrow morning and then the turbo will go back on the car along with the new exhaust, tid, cai, 720 injectors, injector clips, walbro fuel pump, and other stuff too. I hope this thing runs like a beast when i get done, last thing to do now is pull the ecu and send it off for the rtek, and wait for my bov to come in the mail!!!!! yeah its gonna be fun...hahah

Thanx again

NZConvertible

You should never need to hit or pry the housing as long as those two bolts keep turning. They will push it all the way off.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

writeup a buddy of mine did. same concept.

Alot of you have asked, "my oil return is pointed up on my setup, how do I rotate the center section?"

So, I thought I might take a few snaps of me rotating this t3 center section I did tonight, yes its easy, but I'll try to give some quick tips.



First we start off with mounting the exhaust housing in a big vise, or somehow support it. Spray the bolts with WD40 or any type of Penetrating lube, I like using Zep45 & Mopar Rust Spray. When I say spray.. I mean just hose the ****** down, who cars, its all going to burn off, and you can clean it later. You need the lube to work its way up the threads of the bolts.



Use the Box end of the wrench on any bolts you can, don’t PRY the wrench either, give it a quick "SNAP/Jolt" to break the bolts loose. Start loosing the bolts until about half way, if ANY resistance is felt, start spraying a bunch more lube on the bolt, let it sit... then tighten it back up, then try again. Just work the bolt back and forth. Trust me, its better to do this then breaking these old bolts in this shitty piece of cast iron, nobody likes drilling and tapping out old bolts out.



The Bitch bolt #2, this one is a little tricky, I have a custom wrench modified so the box end can slide in and still get all the way around the bolt. Be sure to always a 1/2in wrench, not a 13mm on these bolts.



Bitch bolt #1 is a toughy, its next to the oil feed port on the center section, you cannot get a box end wrench on this one, and its also very common to strip this bolt out. Get a 1/2 wrench (open end) and gently begin to tap with hammer (counterclockwise) to see if it can break free.



Now that you have them all broke free, start loosening them, you'll notice bitch bolt 1/2 will end up hitting the side of the center section very quick.



So, flip the Turbo around on the vise and gently start tapping on the backside of the compressor housing, these starts to free the center section away from the exhaust housing. Sometimes it takes some pretty good wacks, then go back to your bitch bolts, and keep loosening them.

Simple as that, then you can rotate your housing however you like.

I'll update this later with some more pics on how to rotate the compressor housing, and relocating the Internal Wastegate actuator.

RETed

Spraying all that **** onto the turbine housing will cause the chemicals to soak into the metal.
When you fire the turbo up, it all has to burn off - it will stink and most likely be very hazardous to your health.

I have never had problems breaking any of those bolts that hold the turbine housing on.
Unless the turbo was sitting under salt water or sitting around for decades, it should come apart rather easily.
Don't worry about breaking the bolts - crank on them hard.
They are not regular grade bolts - they are high-strength, high-heat fasteners.
Just keep cranking down on them alternately to get the turbine housing to come off.


-Ted

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i think that problem will be masked by the rediculas amounts of fumes coming from your tail pipe that the car puts out anyways.

RETed

I doubt that's possible, cause the only thing I touched was the turbo itself.


-Ted

NZConvertible

Only if your car's completely messed up...

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Thanx guys theres alot of good info here and there that ive read, and I think ive accomplished my goal of porting, all thats left now is to weld on the new washer and get a downpipe from somewhere,seeing as mine is hollow and has a hole in it....

thanx alot everyone