HOw much to charge for changing a pulsa damper?? I have a friend or should i say a coworker that need his pulsa damper change. A mazda place want to charge him 450 with parts. How much should i charge him for labor if i do the work?? I am not planning to make alot of money for this job i just want to knwo how to do it. I am also going to tell him that if i **** up he wont have to pay for the labor. <--think is a good idea?? I am alright in mechanic skills but still learning. Is it hard to change the pulsa damper?? I downloaded the manuel and it looks easy but the manuel sucks so i don't trust it too much. Can i change the pulsa damper without taking the dymanic chamber or the top manfold?? What do i need if i was to remove the top manfold? And suggestion is welcome. Thank you in advance!

 

Do you realize the pulsation damper is a potential LIFE or DEATH issue?!? This isn't a mechanical part to play around with and could leave you LIABLE if the worse occurs- Leave it Alone.

 

First of all. YOu can change the PULSATION DAMPER for under 30 dollars. YOu just buy a banjo bolt that fits in there from summit racing and swap it. If you are a TRUE friend don't charge him ****. It took me and MAX about 45 minutes to do on his car. YES you do have to take off the top manifold not just the VDI the TOP meaning UIM.
I wouldn't charge more than 50 dollars to a stranger for that work it is dead simple. and 10X easier with the hood OFF.

 

Considering that you don't know the full details in changing the pulsation dampener AND since you are also not a professional mechanic,....

I would say that you should do it for free or in exchange for your labor, you get a beer or two. (This is what I would do if I was in your situation).

 

Don't charge anything.

I wouldn't be playing around with the PD if you are inexperienced.

If I was in your shoes, I would just replace it with a banjo bolt.

 

He's your friend right? Don't charge nothing and don't mess with PD if you don't know what you're doing.

 

I charge $200 + parts to change one myself

 

yes but you know what you are doing(at least i hope you do)

ej

 

But you know what you are doing. twistedriver doesn't.

 

he will after he has done a couple...

 

True.

BTW, are you going to Sevenstock?

 

Yeah, tommarow morning I am gonna drive down

 

WOW i never thought i would get this much reply so fast and so many people tell me not to charge. Okay i need to clear up something. First thing first. HE is a hi how are you doing and thats it coworker. He is also a very annoying person that would talk **** or ask stupid question through out the whole time you are working on this car. (i did his brakes one) Second thing is that. I might be a little young and inexperance but i been going to to auto mech school for the last year and a half. So in a way i do know what i am doing. It would also help if the mazda manuel is better. If i am going to change the damper i am goign to replace all washer or seals that i need, just to be save. And last but not less he offer to pay me because like i said he went to a mazda shop and there were oging to charge him 450. So if i was going to charge him is 50 too much?? And can i get the banjo bolt from mazda dealership or in a junk yard?? I might sound a little gready but you really have to know this person to see how annoying he is and again i am not really a close friend. Hey Icemark are you going to sell something at the 7stock?? IF yes where are you going to be. (getting pay today!)

 

to be honest, i wouldn't use the banjo method on someone else's car, esp if i didn't know them well.

the reason is, if it should fail for any reason, you're liable cuz you put something in there that wasn't designed by mazda for that. considering that a pulsation dampner/banjo faliure could mean a car fire...i would only use mazda parts for it.

if it was your buddy or your own car, that's different. but you never know what an acquaintance will do if something goes wrong.

just my thoughts...

john

 

That pretty much says it all... Sorry to sound mean but changing a PD is something serious. Its not like installing a new exhaust or anything. There are many steps to change a PD plus the hoses/rats nest can be confusing at times when you take it off. You have to depressurize your fuel system, etc, etc.

Personally, I carry a fire extinguisher in my car all the time. I will be changing my PD when I get my engine rebuilt. However, I am very reluctant to even do more difficult jobs on other people's car out of fear out of the possibility of something going on wrong. Like I would bleed my own brakes but what if there was a big undetected leak a few months later on the brake master cylinder when I work on my friends car (bleeding the brakes) and his brakes go out even if it wasn't my fault?? Its not worth the risk.

 

Id charge him $150 labor plus new parts. Like someone said earlier, dont use the banjo bolt unless hes a "homie". If the banjo bolt fails for whatever reason (mechanical or human error) and takes it to a mazda shop, you could be in some trouble for doing some "band-aid work". Replacing the damper requires you to remove the upper intake manifold. If everything goes well, you can change it in 2 hours max OR you can let me change it for him Good luck.

 

Jeez... change the thing and charge him $200 + parts... He'll LOVE you since you swaved him $250.

WTF can go wrong...? Just warn him before u do the job how the stock MAZDA pul damp SUCKS and have been known to cause fires. END OF STORY. Tell him you are NOT liable for anything that goes wrong and if he wants a guarentee to goto MAZDA and pay the $450.

Oh yea... unless you've removed everythign 4x's or more that it takes to get underneath to reach the p-d, I'd mark and label every wire and hose.
He can't hold you responsible for **** unless you give him a reciept or he pays you by check... otherwise it's your word against his if it ever goes to court which I doubt.

That is the chance he takes for not paying top dollar by going to the dealer and hiring a backyard uninsured mechanic. Why do you think MAZDA charges soooo much in the first place...?

Any ******* who'd sue you after you did them a favor deserves to get his teeth knocked down his throat. lol just kidding... espically if you pre-warned him.

 

If anyone in the maryland/DC/North VA area knows how to change a PD, or get somehow bypass the PD I'll pay them, plus parts. Frankly I would like to bypass the PD so I won't have to ever worry about it, but if this can't be done then replacing it with something that will out last the car would be nice. Just PM me.

 

we here can walk you through it. It is not hard just important that you don't **** it up.

 

Okay Alright! Everyone check this out. I have decided to do the job. But i will make a contract of some kind before i do the work. Either on paper or with a witness, saying that i will do the work with him knowing that i will not be responsible for the car if any thing happen to it. <---i don't really mean what i sounds. But i have to cover my *** some how. I am getting all OEM parts including the seals, again to cover my ***. I will do the job this friday i will update everyone for the result. I know it sounds stupid but the fire hazard is making me worry. I know i can do the job well but is a customer's car this time. Any one have any thing to say please say it. I will appreciate any comments. Thanks in advance and all the inputs.

 

changing it is easy as hell. Take the upper manifold off. Look at the primary fuel rail(the little on on the block) see the plastic end on one side. That is the pulsation damper. If you want to be a lazy *****, just take the plastic cover off and remove the screw, put some silicone on the screw and put it back in, let dry thouroughly, and replace the cover and put everything back on.

Now if you want it done properly.

Start the car, and then unplug the fuel pump(connector on rear d side shock tower under carpet) car should die from lack of fuel. Turn off car disconnect - battery.

Remove upper intake manifold. Look at the primary fuel rail, learn it. Now go to a wrecker and and remove the entire primary rail. Go home and take the bolt off the non plastic end. See the copper washers. go get some new ones.

With new washers, install the metal fitting that you took off the spare rail and install it where the plastic damper used to be. You will nedd your rail off fo this. Once the new fitting is on and tight, put the rail back in the car and connect the fuel lines. Reinstall the upper manifold, reconnect the batterry and the fuel pump, fire it up and check for leaks.

That is worth some labor for sure. Once yo have the parts its a half hour job

 

First off, I don't think someone is going to sign a piece of paper that essentially says "I'm gonna fix your car, but if it breaks or catches on fire, You can't blame me."

 

All you guys running Banjo Bolts are doing harmful things to your injection system.

Just an FYI.

Jarrett

 

That might be true but I haven't had anything fail on me yet so I doubt it is REALLY BAD. :-/

I do however acknowledge that the PD does a job and the banjo doesn't address this so the rest of the fuel system receives pulsing shock from the injectors firing. I personally would think the fuel lines take the beating since they are just rubber.

 

I would agree, the rubber lines would probably receive the most wear by not having the pd. But for the added safety of not having some stupid little screw burn your entire car down. I will risk the rubber lines needing replacement sooner than the usual.(which is probably not ever)