Actually, its not the rubber lines that take the beating. The shock is only truly felt at right angles. IE where the injector mates to the fuel rail/fuel rail to fuel line, etc... I am not debating that the PD is a poor design, but would rather replace it with another PD then risk the potential for damage.

But its a personal preference.

Jarrett

 

I would rather do a dual(parallel) fuel rail setup than buy a new PD

Atleast like that it looks good, works right, won't **** up either.

Santaigo

 

You know, there's a reason Mazda used a puslation damper and not a banjo bolt on their car in the first place.

Replacing it should not be done unless you know the full consequence of doing so and understand how the EFI system works.

If you want to make a more permanent repair, use the primary fuel rail from the 89+ car, which has an integral pulsation damper that rarely fails. You will have to make some custom fuel lines, but that will be obvious when you try to put it back together is is no big deal.

 

Did you fail to read the whole thread?
Santiago

 

I read the whole thread, I just wanted to make it perfectly clear that it is bad advice to tell someone to remove a necessary part of the fuel system.

 

And I agree...

 

And me as well..

Is there no aftermarket PD you can get? No "performance" dampener just something that's more failsafe than the S4 PD. Just a replacement that has a different deisgn that doesn't leak?

How exactly is the S5's dampener designed? Can I get any more details?

 

Actually there are quite a few aftermarket/performance heavy duty PDs, unfortunately none that I have found are for the FC.

I had made up a nice machined PD adapter, to use the standard GM style lock in PD, but there was not enough interest at the time. At that time too many people were convinced the banjo bolt was the way to go and didn't want to spend $60-$75 on a PD adapter and another $35 on the PD.

And all PDs leak after a while, that is why they should be replaced (much like any other rubber fuel line part) after 10+ years.

 

Do the aftermarket ones bolt in the same way as the FC PD? What I mean - Is it basically the same except for different thread pitch and size?

If so.. I could probably just get an adapter fitting for the fuel rail and bolt in the aftermarket one, couldn't I?

What does (or did) your adapter look like? How much different are the GM PDs? I would imagine they are probably running the same PDs on most if not all of their vehicles, right?

 

Cost me 30 bucks and i changed it my self, very easy acctually.. if you ever see that puppy leak CHANGE IT

-Markus

"My father lost his FC back in 87 to an engine fire, mechanics said a fuel line burst... On the exhaust side of the engine??? I was 5 yrs old and didnt know any better.. "

 

If this is an issue, why hasn't mazda made a recall or better fix for this? What happens to the EFI system when you go with the banjo bolt?

 

If this is an issue, why hasn't mazda made a recall or better fix for this? What happens to the EFI system when you go with the banjo bolt?

 

Double post much!!! lol

-Markus

"Darn server."

 

RETed's on the case...

 

Well, I did a search and came up with his fuel setup. it still doesn't answer my question? I know what the PD does...it provides a smooth transistion from primary to secondary. When the banjo bolt is replace it may come on hard. However, the forum members make it seem like this is not a wise idea.

I hate when members say don't do this and don't do that and mazda put it there for a reason, but mazda also put in the DTSS and shitty *** plastic pieces, and did crappy *** soldiering. If you are going to say don't do it at least we can get an explaination as to why.



https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=fuel

 

THe guy's car caught on fire! HEHE just kidding! Well i change the PD on my co-worker's car. And it was easy as hell. The first time i remove the upper manfold took me 2 hours. Thats with the lableing of every line and plug. And the second time took me 2 hours to take it off and put it back on. But the fuel leak wasn't coming from the PD. The leak was coming from a perfect looking fuel hose under the upper manfold that goes back to the tank. I found that out after i change the PD and put everything back together. One mistake was that i forgot that i can run the fuel pump to check for leaks before i put everything back together. Since i wasn't the person that did the diagnosis it was not my fault. But as a mech i should have confirm the problem before i did the job. Thats a important listen for me....... And the guy i did the PD for have the ***** to try to ask for money back after i told him that it wasn't the PD. To make the long story short. I fix the leak and went home. But the end of the day i have already took the upper manfold off 3 times. Now i can do it in 1 and a half hour. OH when i left he also try to tell me that i should have lie to him about the problem so he wont be upset. Well this is obvious that i will never do any work for this guy again. Free or payed. I know my english is bad so sorry for the headack. I just need to tell everyone what happen. And to thank everyone for their help and support.

 

No it's not. It's there because if the pulsations in the fuel rails match the opening of the injectors you can get improper mixtures. If a positive pressure pulse coincides with an injector opening you get too much fuel and a rich mixture. If a negative pressure pulse coincides with an injector opening you get too little fuel and a lean mixture.
You do relise that all EFI cars have a pulsation damper as part of the fuel system? It's not there just because Mazda decided they wanted one. It's been a standard EFI component from very early on. That and the fact that you can get aftermarket ones should be a hint that they're more important than many think.

Why do you have a problem with people telling you not to do something? It could be a piece of advice that could benefit you later. It might even save your car or life. You are free to ignore any advice you receive here, so there's no need to get upset because you don't get the answer you were hoping for.

 

Actually Mazda did very little soldering in the FC. The majority of the electrical parts that need re-soldering were made by Imasen and Denso.

Companies that also do electrical work for many other manufactures.

It is not unusual to have cold solder joints on any 10-15+ year old car. I rebuild a couple early to mid 90's Lexus climate controls a month right now, as well as mid-eighties Porsche cruise controls and other Bosch made parts. Are you going to say that those are all bad mazda solder jobs too??? Or understand that all cars when they get old need work, especially the electronics circuit boards. It is unreasonable to expect an PCB with wires attached to last forever.

And DTSS has been proven over and over to make the average driver better and was adopted by Porsche and other manufactures.