lets say 10psi... how much advance does the stock ECU run?

what about the split?

 

My understanding is none at 9psi. Thats why the rtek says "advances timing above 9psi" Also stated from pocketlogger.com, 1 degree per 1psi. Maybe, who knows.

 

That's retards timing above 9psi.

 

ok... so whats the timing at 9psi? i'm really looking for some kind of base to see how stupid my map is.

 

My bad, just looked.

Then I don't know. Sorry.

 

Thank you I thought I was about to go crazy thinking wait advance on boost no....

 

What map are you using?

Damn man, you are having MORE haltech problems then anyone I know!

 

10psi is technically above the overboost fuel-cut, so there's no answer to that.

At around 8psi, I think it's about 18 degrees total advance...


-Ted

 

wow i have a feeling i'm going to see a night and day difference going from 8 degrees of advance to like 15

 

Im surprised there is that much timing, as the s4 t2's were tuned to run on 87 octane.

 

yea for 10psi, set that **** around 15 degrees advanced

 

Remember, stock, the FC turbos only *supposed* to see 6psi for Zenki and 8psi for Kouki.

Oh, and if you're running pump gas and under 15psi, you should not be going under 15 total degrees of advance.


-Ted

 

Wow, good thread guys!

I am just getting into the Haltech world and timing is sort of confusing...but this helps!

Thanks


EDIT - How would you observe the advance the stock system runs?
James

 

Why do you keep posting ADVANCED timing degress under higher boost? You are sapost to retard timming for higher boost and N2O

 

The timing will still be advanced....however your retard timing by degrees...which would still leave you in the +.

I think

 

Extracted from the stock ECU (N332). Should be correct, if my math
was good. The vertical scale is load. I haven't taken the time to
convert it real units yet.

-Henrik

 

Jacob is asking how much timing to run relative to TDC, the ecu is firing the ignition X degrees before TDC (BTDC). It is advanced relative to TDC, the timing would be negative to be retarded relative to TDC.

It can be confusing for people with stock ECU's to discuss this subject with someone using a standalone like a haltech, which is what Jacob is using. Jacob is adjusting the absolute timing, not some signal conditioner / piggy back that is going to retard/advance the stock timing. This is why he wants to know the absolute timing advance under boost with the stock ECU, so he knows where the safe #'s are.

 

Okie, one more half thread jack question....

When you are running more than stock boost (s5) you have to run a FCD.

So, lets say you are running 14 psi the advance will now be locked at 18 degrees since the FCD is telling the ECU it is still at 8.5 psi?

 

Wow, what other intresting stuff you got?

 

I seen the stock Cosmo ignition timing maps.


-Ted

 

That is correct if you're running a clamp-type FCD.


-Ted

 

18 degrees at 14 psi.... lets just say thats close to what I run on the Haltech and my partner in crime runs on his monster turbo third gen with an Autronic ECU...

HOWEVER...... thats with FMIC's, custom fuel systems, Aftermarket ECU's and water injection on the third gen...

18 degrees advance is WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYY much for the stock fuel system, and TMIC (IMO the stock TMIC is USELESS after any sort of turbo mod period.. but thats me) .. especially if you get some bad gas in the tank...

Are we getting a better picture now of why most of us that have given serious thought to to the subject say that an FCD and an SAFC are just a band-aid untill a proper dressing can be put on the wound..

 

Yiikes, thats scary stuff....

Is the clamp type FCD the only type that we use on the FC?

Hum, maybe that is why my engine was getting pissed at 13psi with intake temps passing 50C on my stock ecu.hhhhhummmmmmm

Was, being the past tense for that motor

James

 

welcome to the realization that high boost + stock ECU = junk..

 

The current Racing Beat FCD is.
The GReddy FCD is.
The HKS FCD is.

The *old* Racing Beat FCD was not.
This was a resistive type, which just fooled the ECU into thinking it was running less boost; it was basically a 200-ohm resistor inline with the signal lead.

Like I keep saying before, the stock ECU was not designed to run more than 8psi of boost. :P


-Ted