OK here the description:


Red '87 TurboII for sale $3000 obo
Motor just blew, rear rotor (yay)

Guys, this car was wicked fast, and it wasn't even tuned right. The reason it blew was I bought it from the previous owner who didn't have a standalone on it. It was running stock ECU with enough fuel mods, but not enough *control* of those mods (the stock ECU wasn't doing the job right).

Just before it blew, I smoked an SMG M3 from 45-80. I didn't even shift, just put it in 3rd (you know that's 2nd gear territory for another 15 mph, and if you shift past 7000, even more...) but at any rate, he got about a 1/4 car length on me before the turbo spooled and I was at 50 mph, then I just reeled him in and put about 2 car lengths on him before 80.

And it wasn't even tuned properly... man this sucker is fast. I am simply tired of messing with rotaries for now. Gonna have to go with a more family car.

Specs on car:




T04E 60-1 Turbo

Custom FMIC

HKS? Blow Off Valve

3" downpipe (not sure what brand)
Custom 3" exhaust from downpipe back to brand new flowmaster (surprisingly it quiets it right down and is doesn't sound loud and have that annoying metallic sound)
Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II external wastegate

4 x 720cc injectors

Walbro 255 fuel pump

SX Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator

Aftermarket Cltuch (not sure what brand, but it grabs and holds the 300+ hp easily)

New(er) radiator

Aftermarket (metal?) thermostat housing & coolant line neck (engine side) with bung for water temp sending unit, sending unit in already (so car has 2 sending units)

Boost Gauge

Air/Fuel Gauge

Weds wheels front and back, 225/50/R16 tires on front, 255/50/R16 Yokohama's on rear

Cloth Seats in EXCELLENT condition (like new almost)

New radio installed with aux input (I'n not a stereo guy, so it's a CD player with an aux input to me, whatever... it works good)

Greddy? fiberglass front bumper (could be touched up, it musta hit a curb once or twice, it's fully intact and soild, but it's broken in two places or so

A/C & P/S removed

Two things it should have changed (actually only one necessary) is the driveshaft (u-joints going) and the transmission might be good, might be bad, I can't tell. It works fine, just grinds in a few gears. It might just need some new fluid and a shifter rebuild (it's sloppy in 1 and 2) and it might just work like magic.



Car put down 255 at the rear wheels on the stock fuel system untuned @ 10 psi before I bought it (before the inejctors, pump, FPR, etc..) Tuned with a standalone and this sucker would easily put mid 300's, and probably close to 400 at 15 pounds.

Get a standalone (or even an additional injector controller..) and a new J-spec and you've got yourself an 11 second car easily.




How much money would I have to put into this car? Would I have to go Haltech, or could I go with piggybacks? I would love to buy this thing, but I'm just curious what I will have to do to make it not blow up on me. Also, why do you suppose it blew up in the first place?

-Joe

 

It blew for the exact reson he said, fuel problems. You will need a new engine (rebuilt whatvever), and a stand alone would be the best idea. Just those two come to $3000 or so. For 3K I would definitely look at it.

 

three grand for a TII with a blown motor is a bit much

 

Even though it's blown it has a To4E,FMIC,720's,Walbro,etc.

You can easily part that out for that much.


The rebuild will cost around $1300 if nothing is bad internally if you go through www.rotaryresurrection.com

Then maybe take it really easy and get it on a dyno to see what the Ari Fuel ratio is at. Then you can diagnose it.

 

Oh, that explains a lot...

If you're asking about fixing it, I would not recommend getting such a headache.

The car is someone's headache, and you're going to make it yours.
Unless you're committed to throwing a lot of money at it, it's not worth it.
The engine rebuild is just the first step to get it running well.


-Ted

 

if the engine is blown it might have sent junk like the apex seals into the turbo and wreck the turbine wheel on the exhaust side. i would offer him $2000-$2500 and work on a deal from that.

 

I second that.......2000 bux is good....

 

the freaking rustfree rolling frame alone is worth almost that, crap... $2000... give me a break.

 

Bought my S5 TII not running with no mods for $1500. I'd say it's not a bad deal. Definetly not something you want to get into if you don't have a good amount mechanic skills.

 

You guys pay way too much for cars. I sold my 88 TII in RUNNING condition for $2K. A good S4 TII roller is only worth about $500-800. This one probably has a bad transmission and driveshaft, so that bumps it down to $300 or so, especially if the tires and brakes are shot. If you can disassemble the questionable parts like the transmission, turbocharger, etc., then it may be worth paying more if these parts check out ok.

For those of you who think this car is worth something, I ask you how you know that any of those shiny parts even work? You can't check out most of them because the car isn't running. Obviously the owner isn't very bright when it comes to sportscars, although he has made the intelligent choice to stick with family cars from now on, so I give him credit for that. Basically, this car is a crap shoot. I would look for a different car.

Too much. Delta gates suck, the Flow Master muffler is not intended for rotaries, there is no telling what kind of intercooler and BOV it has, a replacement transmission and driveshaft will run you about $700, the thermostat mod scares me, and there is no telling if the turbo or other items even work properly since the car is not running. This car could cost up to $10K to get running well.

Piggybacks cost nearly as much as a Haltech E6. I would stick with the Haltech if that is the brand that is supported by your local rotary engine tuner.

General wisdom holds that it's not such a great idea to flog your engine when you know darn well that it isn't tuned correctly.

 

Your looking at $2200-2500 for an engine, than a standalone fuel management. Your looking at spending over $3k on just that. That doesn't include the labor. I would leave it someone who knows what their doing.