Since I have a moster S4/5 version I never had the right return tube.

I went through it and decided to make a return line.

I got this http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

which will bot right up to the front cover and turbo so you don't have to do fabbing.

Then I got about 14 inches of 10 AN size SS braided oil hose.

One regular 10an Hose end.
One 90` 10an hose end.
2 10an male to 1/2 NPT male adapters and then put it together!

The AN stuff is SUPER easy.

Pretty much put some tape around the hose and cut it to length so you don't fray it too much.

remove tape and then take the red cover piece and push it on the end. so the tube goes through it.

The male pice of the hose end then slips inside the tube to seal inside and out. Tighten it up and your set!

Here is a pic of my setup.
This roughly cost me about $50 but the guys hooked me up pretty good.

 

man where did you buy that SS hosing.. i want to redo my brakes but the brake SS lines are only the part from the fender to the caliper.. i want it all the way to the master cylinder... same for my fuel lines and a couple of other parts.... thanks in advance

 

wow that looks good!!

 

Maybe it's just the angle of that picture, but it looks like the line loops up...That will not work, since the drain is a gravity feed.

 

It will still work while the car is running, but the oil would pool a little in the line instead of in the pan when the car is off.

 

Restriction in the oil drain line causes excessive smoke from the turbo...That line must be clear and as uncomplicated as possible...

 

It's level. It's just the angle and the objects behind it making it look like that.

I got 10 AN because it retained the same ID(or as close as I could get) to the stock system.

Also the stock system is basically the same just all hard line instead.

 

that looks awesome!

 

Nice. Thanks for the link

 

i wonder if it would be possiable to make some cheap SS brake lines like that.

 

well brake lines has MUCH higher PSI going through them so verifing you have a good connection is sooooo much more important.


A small revamp.....

I am having smoking problems with my car.

I am assuming it is blowby due to one rotor not firing but it could be drainage as well.

I have a 3an restricted inlet and 10 an return.

I bought s 45 degree bend to replace the 90 bend. I am ficing the rotor to work and then will see if it needs the bend or not.

 

Where did you get that? And what does AN stand for?

 

Brakes and cheap are 2 words that should never be put together.

 

I got it from a speed shop here(hotrod/place)

AN is the sizing system kind of like NPT.

It's common for compression style fittings.

 

any update on the smoking fix?
would help to make it a shorter distance before the bend, and a 45' makes sense

 

So far it doesn't really smoke. A little at start up but I'm also running 60psi on my fuel rail.

The only things I can think of would be
Crankcase ventilation
Bad drain angle for oil return
Rebuild still had some left over **** in it
too much premix/OMP was still working too hard

 

BRINGING BACK FROM THE DEAD!
where is the best/cheapest place to buy the ss braided line and a/n fittings?

 

I'd say some where like jegs/jcwhitney/or any of the other major online auto stores.

 

so was the 90 degree to much?? should i use 90 or 45. BTW upon what everyone will say im gonna use my oil pan as a drain, since its leaking anyways

 

Well I've been using the 90 degree for the last year and I'm fine.

I restricted the inlet to the turbo and am running open crank case ventilation. No smoking so far.

 

This roughly cost me about $50 but the guys hooked me up pretty good.

yeah, you definately got hooked up good! i paid almost $80 for 1- 10-an 90degree to 1/2 npt, 1 straight 10-an to 1/2 npt, and 3 feet of braided steel line. all well, its better than using regular fuel line or somthin thanks for the great idea and write up!