c_me_drft2_slEp

jus found out the other other day that my coolant seals were messed up. i got it checked by a mechanic. now i would rather buy a new motor (TII hopfully ) than to fix it.
the past weekend i was so STUPID!!! and i still regret this...but i let some idiot drift my car and he ended up scraping a wall. i would have to replace one of the fenders and straighten the sheet of metal where the fender and bumper bolt into. now i'm the only one who can drive my car!!!
well my point is how long have you guys waited until you could drive your 7's after some major work being done to it. my car is gonna be out for about 3-4 months because i would have to save money and work my *** off. i'm just kind of pissed because while i'm saving i would have to put up w/ my friends w/ 240s' equipped w/ sr20's talking **** about my rotary and how it sucks. you guys think it will be worth the wait if save up for a front clip??? (need the fenders) thanks guys

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

It'll be worth the wait man. I fought with my 7 for almost a year before I was able to drive it again. Now i'm waiting again due to my 2nd blown engine. At this point, I'm saving for a rebuild on my TII.

SO...a 240 equipped with an SR20 isn't that much of a match for a TII. My friend has one and it's quick. It has a good amount of low end torque so it'll get ya off the line. But every time we pulled, I ended up in the lead by a fair margin. As far as I know, the SR motor doesn't put out much more than 165 HP to the wheels. And you also have to keep in mind that a 240SX has some fattitude when it comes to it's weight. they're a little on the heavy side.

Anyway, save up and get a clip. if you do that, you might as well get an S5 clip if it comes with the harness and ECU intact. But also keep in mind that it would be a good idea if you rebuilt the engine when tou get it. It would be more beneficial that way because for all intents and purposes you're starting off with a fresh engine.

Oh yea, the body may not be in good condition if you get a clip...just warning ya. They get banged around a lot in transit...

c_me_drft2_slEp

jus a question...even though an engine in a clip has (as posted on websites) 50-65 thousand miles on it, you still need to rebuild it?...would it be cheaper if i jus do a complete TII swap and get the fenders separatly?? or buy a front clip ( i am not doing the swapping of the engine due to lack of experience so the price on labor should be considered )

86se7en

it would be cheaper to buy it seperately because most likely the engine in the clip would have to be rebuilt and the body panels would be all banged up

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it would be cheaper to just buy a T2.

next time don't be stupid and let someone drift your car...

Syonyk

I waited long enough to learn to spell.

Mine spent a month being pushed back and forth from one side of a road to the other every single night pretending to be running while I rebuilt the motor.

-=Russ=-

aznpoopy

ermmm okay

s13/s14 240sx and the lighter FCs are nearly the same weight
roughly 2800 lbs

a stock s13 redtop - the 'lowliest' variety sr20det - puts out 205hp/203tq
later 13b-t - roughly 200hp/195tq

assuming both are running properly, they are very similar cars, performance wise.

c_me, your friends are ******** for ragging on your car. also, your friend who damaged your fender should pay for it, or at least seriously get to help fixing it.

lack of experience is not a reason to avoid swapping your engine yourself. i just did my first swap last weekend. could've gotten it done in 2 days if i didn't have to wait for gaskets from the dealer.

seriously though, just buy a t2. it'll probably be cheaper in the long run, especially if you are going to pay labor to have the engine swapped.

REnoob

i bought my 7 in may, it had no interior except 2 seats and a sun faded dash... it didn't run had no salvageable exhaust from the engine back and is in primer... i will be waiting a long time, although with some of my own custom handywork and sand paper i managed to redo most of the interior, so all thats left is to finish sewing the doorpannels fabric and new seats. and i got it running. but i'll let you know how long i waited when its done

BTW: the car had sat 4 years before i found it.

i know how you feel, all my friends with thier civics (one turbo'd) constantly give me **** about using my accord as a daily driver/beater car and spending the money on a 7

Jaiyurai

iTrader: (30)

don't let stupid drivers drive your car. if i want to bang up my car, then i can do it myself.

it would probably be cheaper to just buy a TII. TIIs are getting fairly cheaper these days and easier to find.

When I blew my first motor, I waited 18 months to get everything the way I wanted. Engine, suspension, wheels, and exterior before driving it again. It was the best feeling I ever had.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

yes i hate waiting also, i just blew up my turbo II its gonna suck waiting till i can afford a new engine.... then my na is giving me trouble also... but at least it still runs...

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

MY N\A has been sitting slowly getting uprages for 3 months. I replace the shot-to-hell red interior with one new\mint (and black) component at a time. A few replacements have been done, and they really stand out from the rest of the crap in my interior

The engine bay has had some replacements (nothing major) but is running much better than it did when I first got it. Brakes and shocks have been replaced. Car needs to be repainted white (owner painted it green once she got tired of the factory silver) and an oem spoiler (already purchased) needs to be bolted on. Someday i'll swap the engine out for a TII.

How long until I drive it out of my parking lot? A year. Maybe more. No rush really, I enjoy working on it. My daily driver is an '05 Sti that needs 0 upkeep\upgrades. I'm getting the best of both worlds right now

--MAstermind--

how long did i have to wait to drive my FC.....

ok hows this EVERYONE should almost know my story by now(clubfc3s and like the WTB section)

i bought it from someone in cali a year ago.....it took me a freaking YEAR to ship her(life dad missing in IRAQ and financial issues struck at shitty moments) she finally arrives and i had an awwsome dood repair her FOR FREE! OK so 115k on motor....and chassy....shes running REALLY strong i paid 2k and spend 600+ on shipping from cali...and really shitty shipping (people late up the ***)...ok ok so its here i drive the **** outta her and its like nothing...strong as hell.....im going with my gurl to get cheese cake....(day 6 of her arrival...) and i make a left turn.....some punk @ss turns into the street and slams into her side.....shes got a blown strut and demolished door....i thought i lost her for good....im struggling to get her back up....and ontop of that she has a VAC leak now.....shes sitting at my buddies house.....JUST SITTING.....im trying hard to get cash for her repair and what not people on these fourms are helping here and there.....but i guess the punch line....im still waiting to drive mine.....going on 2 years....BTW im 19 and i been wanting an FC since i was 12(got myself into them) AND AND...this was my first and only car.....(i have driven family and etc cars...) EVER..only had her for 6 days........thats my story.....

WHEEW i reallly needed that whole story offa my chest...and the topic seemed fitting....

thanx

banzaitoyota

hmmmmm, which version of the car?
The P-Port street version has been in the works for 18 months +

--MAstermind--

well i failed to mention its an 88 TII.....thought i toss that out there.too...

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

how long till i got to drive my car, well let see, i havn't! but i am putting the rebuild in this weekend. finally i will get to expeiriance my baby. (hopefully)

vhold

I've been waiting 6+ months to get mine back. Very frustrating.

DocMazda

i would like to just take this moment to say that i have FINALLY been able to drive my rx how i wanted to with little to no reservation AT ALL about failures of any sort. When i first got it, i bought it over the forum for 600 dollars. But, i had to get it towed from chattanooga, TN. It was sitting out in a field for about 6 months or so. So, i installed everything i need to get it running, (afm, intercooler, vac lines, etc....whole new gasket set, turbo was/is good though! Just minor accessories to get the vac in place), and i tried to crank her over, (sucked because it was my first experience really working on a car, and it was an rx7) and the engine rotates fine, but doesnt start...damn, thats shitty...so, i take a compression check, then engine is good, but i figure the seals are probly blown inside anyway (coolant/oil seals, i know the apexes are good...i checke them myself through the compression check Fr-105 Rr-98) so i buy a short-block for 600 on the forum. (oh, by the way, i do not know what i am going to do with my old engine, i can always sell it, or maybe try to get that one ported??? (just in case you havent noticed, im looking for hints here!) and i swap out the thing with a friend...now, we are at month 9 at owning her, before i can drive it. So, swap it out, same **** happens. Oh, i forgot to mention, the reason why i thought the coolant seals were bad is because the coolant buzzer kept going off when it was full of coolant, and i thought the exhaust smelled sweet, but it was just grey, not discolored....anyway, thats why i just swapped out a different engine. So, this guy gets it going for abotu 300 dollars. plus, he resets all my gaskets and pulls out the rats nest. So, car runs well for a little bit, and from then on out, its just been stupid **** that makes her run like crap. Nothing very major, just a bunch of stuff at once. all you guys know! hard to find vac-leaks, minor electrical glitches, etc...so, that was one year ago. and now, i just installed an fmic, walbro 255lph, the rtek 1.7ecu, greddy type-s, polished aluminum tid, fixed my p/s AND a/c! so, i have ICE COLD a/c, power steering feels damn good comparatively, it idles rock ******* solid at 1200 with a/c on, (mind you no rats nest...so i will adjust idle tomorrow), installed new brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and cross-drilled/slotted rotors all around, centerforce stage 1 clutch, full 3" exhaust, and i still have the battery in the stock location!!! and now, i can push the car as hard as i want, take it out of gear, and it will return to idle with no problems at all! not coolant leaks (needed new rad) no oil leaks (needed to tighten the oil cooler bolts) no p/s leaks (needed to replace line) a/c is DAMN COLD (needed a recharge and replace seal in compressor) and my headlight retractors work (needed new fuse)! and ill tell you, after i get my mbc in with my boost gauge, along with the wideband o2 sensor, my air/fuel controller, AND my 9.5# lightweight flywheel in, i will feel like i am pimping a large portion of the ho'z. the onyl thing i need to "Fix" is this damn electrical short between the a/c switch and my idiot/dash lights. everytime i turn on my a/c (or roll up BOTH my windows at the same time, never once at a time, always both windows at the same time, and only rolling up!) my idiot lights come on. but, when the lights start glitching out hardcore with the a/c on, some times i can cancel it out with pulling both window switches up (as if i were going to roll those up at the same time, but they are already up) and it will stop the glitching...probly about 60% of the time. so, if anyone has any suggestions on where to start for me about that....aside from where the body harness meets up just where the firewall is...that looks like a real shitty place to be, i am all ears! sorry bout the long post, but as to quote one of the better cartoon characters of the 20th century, "I am so excited, i can HARDLY contain myself!"--can you guess who??

anyways, pics of the intercooler set-up will be posted tomorrow....its dark here. its a really nice set-up, and i enjoy it quite a bit (since i can retain all my "youre getting spoiled" options!

Good luck on the rex, and i would HIGHLY suggest just upping and buying a tII than trying to do the conversion. it requires switching out pretty much all the hardware (including the brakes if you want sufficient power to stop), and that **** costs money. just buy a decently running tII, make sure its a good engine, do basic tune-up stuff, and fix things that are needed to be fixed for reliabilities sake first, performance later! also, when you need to figure some thing out if you have problems, search first. theres basically every topic known to man on the rx7 here in this forum some where. Its also a hell of a lot easier to read through a thread than try to figure out which 2,000 related threads are coherent to your situation. But, if you ever need help, dont be afraid to ask, people in the 2nd gen forum are usually pretty good guys/gals. theyll be glad to help you out.

Also, one other piece of advice, until your friend can drive better, let'em wreck his own car. that car is yours to wreck, not his. also, if hes ragging on your ride, hes a bastard. my friend owns a red-top sr20 sil-80 conversion. he has helped me with almost EVERY question or concern i had with my car (that he could relate to anyway) and has been with me and this car since ive purchased it. He loves nissans, but he also loves performance cars in general, your friend should respect that and your decision. if hes acting like that, tell him hes better trimmed for the guys that drive hondas. im sure he'll meet plenty of people like that!!! :::oh, snap:::

So, yeah, anybody talk **** on your car, as long as you have the desire to get it fixed and driving how YOU want it to drive, ****-dem-bitches. And you can take that to the bank. oh, by the way, get an air freshener, until your car is in tip-top shape, they usually smell funny, (probly from running pig-rich as soon as you throw a couple of bolt-ons).

Good luck with the rx man,
Ryan Shannon, '88 T-II

full-cruise

iTrader: (5)

4 long years

Curtisleeyoung

Well said.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

I'm at 1.5 years on my car, since the rotary popped. I actually fired the engine tonight. I've got ~10-15 hours of work to get the main bugs worked out, then I can take it around the block. Then, I have to pull the engine back out to change a seeping rear main seal, then I should be good to go terrorize some Vipers and Corvettes.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

HEY MAN! accords are great DD scooters, i used to DD one

JMY952

It's been exactly a week now but I'm guessing about an extra week until she gets fixed up

YearsOfDecay

My cars sits for WEEKS all the time..

This time its because I decided that I'm going to change my fuel system around and I'm waiting for the parts.. I already ripped the UIM off.. so screw it.. there it sits..

Thats what the beater truck is for!!!

c_me_drft2_slEp

alright i will probably sell my 7 (non-turbo) and just keep saving up until i can afford a decent, reliable TII (S5 hopfully). thanx for all the replies! these really inspired me to really save up. o yeah how much would a nice shaped S5 go for these days??
finally i will hunt down my friend because i haven't heard from him since the accident! thanx again

aznpoopy

depends on the condition

don't get hung up on s4 or s5

what you really want is a FC T2 that has been well maintained

dunno about san diego

here, i would expect to pay anywhere from 3k to 6k

depends on condtion, mods, etc.