BACK STORY: 1986 n/a gxl, no bac, no omp, wired open 5+6th ports, no egr

GOAL: drift **** (don't hate)

Dumb question but what would I need to do to have a functioning rev limiter, my car makes power at 4500 to about 7500 rpm but I'm concerned about a premature blown motor if I bounce it to 7500-8000rpm to often. Are my concerns legit or am I an idiot haha? But if I am on the right track I would limit it to 7k if I could.

I'm no ricer flame shooting fanboi so don't hate twards my question just wanna have fun for more than 20k miles on my motor.

 

Pretty sure stock spark cut is fine, the rotary likes high revs. I'd say you're safe. I imagine you'd only need to mess with the redline when you're running a turbo or an aggressively ported engine

 

its an n/a, run that bitch at the highest rpm until it blows

 

You should hit the stock ECU's fuel cutoff at 7500 real RPMs [The gauge is sometimes accurate sometimes not..]
Though, it's not really kind to the engine to suddenly shut off one rotor...

 

The TEC3 has a nice soft rev limiter.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/products/tec3.html

You could also use an aftermarket ignition system that has a user-defined rev limiter.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/CDI/cdi.html

 

I thought the stock fuel cut was at 9k rpms(both rotors).... but w/e

And thanks evil aviator that info was about as helpful as it gets haha. I would have used the search method but when it comes to modding an n/a.... forget about searching. Im deffinatly looking into the msd 6al between your link and msd's website I can already see it in my 7.

 

Get an adjustable shift light from fleabay.

Remove light, use light power to standard automotive relay sensor.

Use relay switch as a negative ground to the coil.

You now have an adjustable rev limiter for about $20.

 

series 4 cuts at 8k, series 5 cuts at 9k.

if you really think you need a rev cut there are many ignitions out there that have modules for ignition cut at various RPMs.

 

Bounce off the stock limiter. It will be fine... high exhaust temp maybe but it's not like you are worried about burning up a cat. I don't see how bouncing off an aftermarket limiter will really be any safer than a stock limiter. It will still stress components. You can save the money and put it towards fixing stuff that will inevitably break from drifting

 

+1

the stock limiter is less harsh than most ignition cut units and ECUs will offer.

only downside is you won't get that signature honda hard limiter sound as the revvs tach up and down 500RPMs.

 

>_< Not sure what was wrong with me saying 7500...

Looking at my dyno sheet it was 7800.
Is the limit officially noted somewhere?

 

Gah, I just realized that first sentence can be misinterpreted..
What I meant was:
"Why Did I say 7500RPMs.. I should know better than that."