How I made my TID
#1
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How I made my TID
Ok, heres the write up on my TID mod. I also open vented my BOV at the same time, so they are incorporated in the instructions. This is only for use with an aftermarket intake.
Parts list:
3in. to 2 in. rubber reducer - $7.48
3in. rubber elbow - $10.92
plastic check valve - about $6.00
1in. to 1/2in. hose type reducer - $.50
2 ft of 5/8in rubber hose - ?
Okay here we go.
Ok, first things first. This thing barely fits around my J-spec air pump. The pump is about 1/2 the size of my american one. So ditch it or find a solution.
First, remove the original TID. On the rubber elbow, cut off one of the flared ends. Then, using a screwdriver, poke a hole in the elbow, by the vaccum line that goes into the old TID. Dont make the hole big enough to be noticable. It should be hard to see, after all you dont want air getting in there. You can see where it goes in in the first pic. It is now ready to be installed. Put the now assembled elbow with reducer onto the turbo. Dont tighten it until all parts are in place, cause they will need to be moved around to make it all fit. Put the vaccum line into the hole you poked. You can now attach your AFM, and intake. The rubber flange on the elbow will be a little bit bigger than the AFM, but it can be tightened down to fit. Check around the tube to make sure nothing is going to interfere. Youre done.
Now with the BOV. Take the check valve, and insert the 1in to 1/2in threaded adapter in the blow through side. Use teflon tape. Use rubber hosing into to attach it to the BOV. Tighted down with clamps. Pic 3 is a good look at all this.
Finito!
Any questions?
Parts list:
3in. to 2 in. rubber reducer - $7.48
3in. rubber elbow - $10.92
plastic check valve - about $6.00
1in. to 1/2in. hose type reducer - $.50
2 ft of 5/8in rubber hose - ?
Okay here we go.
Ok, first things first. This thing barely fits around my J-spec air pump. The pump is about 1/2 the size of my american one. So ditch it or find a solution.
First, remove the original TID. On the rubber elbow, cut off one of the flared ends. Then, using a screwdriver, poke a hole in the elbow, by the vaccum line that goes into the old TID. Dont make the hole big enough to be noticable. It should be hard to see, after all you dont want air getting in there. You can see where it goes in in the first pic. It is now ready to be installed. Put the now assembled elbow with reducer onto the turbo. Dont tighten it until all parts are in place, cause they will need to be moved around to make it all fit. Put the vaccum line into the hole you poked. You can now attach your AFM, and intake. The rubber flange on the elbow will be a little bit bigger than the AFM, but it can be tightened down to fit. Check around the tube to make sure nothing is going to interfere. Youre done.
Now with the BOV. Take the check valve, and insert the 1in to 1/2in threaded adapter in the blow through side. Use teflon tape. Use rubber hosing into to attach it to the BOV. Tighted down with clamps. Pic 3 is a good look at all this.
Finito!
Any questions?
#2
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I forgot to mention I took this time to replace the 90 degree elbow in pic 4 that is between the BOV and the intercooler piping. Mine was very hard. I also ran hoseing from my air pump tp the nipple on my filter adapter.
#3
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That vac line you have connected to the TID with the white plastic barb, was that originally the line that had the silver check valve on it? (There are 2 hoses that originally connect to the stock TID.. the outlet for the bov and the line withthe checkvalve)
If you, you're going to need to put that checkvalve back in.. the hose is connected to the oil filler neck and is used as a part of the crankcase ventilation system.. it's a one way checkvalve that allows pressure to escape from the crankcase but not enter it..
If you, you're going to need to put that checkvalve back in.. the hose is connected to the oil filler neck and is used as a part of the crankcase ventilation system.. it's a one way checkvalve that allows pressure to escape from the crankcase but not enter it..
#5
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Re: stupid
Originally posted by blue88gxl N/A
This may sound very very stupid but what does TID stand for?
This may sound very very stupid but what does TID stand for?
i think it stands for Turbo Inlet Duct or something like that
and i mean sound stupid here...but what does it actually do? i don't really know whats going on in the pictures
#6
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Originally posted by Chris Ng
That vac line you have connected to the TID with the white plastic barb, was that originally the line that had the silver check valve on it? (There are 2 hoses that originally connect to the stock TID.. the outlet for the bov and the line withthe checkvalve)
If you, you're going to need to put that checkvalve back in.. the hose is connected to the oil filler neck and is used as a part of the crankcase ventilation system.. it's a one way checkvalve that allows pressure to escape from the crankcase but not enter it..
That vac line you have connected to the TID with the white plastic barb, was that originally the line that had the silver check valve on it? (There are 2 hoses that originally connect to the stock TID.. the outlet for the bov and the line withthe checkvalve)
If you, you're going to need to put that checkvalve back in.. the hose is connected to the oil filler neck and is used as a part of the crankcase ventilation system.. it's a one way checkvalve that allows pressure to escape from the crankcase but not enter it..
#7
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Re: Re: stupid
Originally posted by Erik
i think it stands for Turbo Inlet Duct or something like that
and i mean sound stupid here...but what does it actually do? i don't really know whats going on in the pictures
i think it stands for Turbo Inlet Duct or something like that
and i mean sound stupid here...but what does it actually do? i don't really know whats going on in the pictures
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#11
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Pulled off the factory TID yesterday. @ the 2.5 inch end, the tube is hard as a brick. At the end that would mount to the MAF (AFM whatever) its a nice soft rubber. I'm wondering if some of the bucking I am experiencing can be caused by a lil air leak due to the impossible task of making sure the lower end is attached to the turbo. Going to be pulling the car into the garage today to check out my grounds; if anything helps i'll post it
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