Hey guys,
Recently my passenger window stopped working and I now determined that it's either my window motor or regulator. I just took off the door panel and now I have absolutely no idea what to do! How do I remove the window regulator/motor to repair it?
Thanks in advance!

 

try applying voltage and ground directly to the motor pigtail and i bet you find it isn't the motor/regulator. problem is 99.5% of the time in one or both of the switches. they will still pass voltage but do not let that fool you that the AMPERAGE is not there due to poor contact.

at this point in time, upgrading to the dual relay system is usually a better option for saving the switches and the need to clean them twice a year. someday i'll attempt to make a plug and play kit for it.

 

Check behind here.

Edit: Karack, maybe your percentage is off, or of you own experience, but I've seen a few weak motors and just as recently as last week I replaced a very weak one on my new-to-me vert and now it works great. Maybe its 95%.

Soulrider - Do the voltage check first, its much easier than taking out the motor, especially if the motor isnt the problem.

 

i suppose it could be a little bit off, most people don't bring in their car for inoperative windows and those who ask about it a quick cleaning of the switch usually gets them working again.

 

my mk3 supra(and many others) had this issue. as stated by Karack, it was the switch. I took it apart down to where i had the contacts in my hand, went at them with a pencil eraser to clean up the points of contact, threw it back together and never had a problem after that. if i were you i would try this first, a little less of a PITA than removing glass/motors/regs.

 

I've been driving RX7's as long as there has been RX7's. And I've never seen a regulator motor go bad in any RX7 I've owned. Always the switch or power getting to the switch.

 

well, the verts with the bicycle cable regulator are pretty craptastic.. which i just now noticed he has.

 

Thanks everyone! I had two functioning switches and that didn't do the trick. Tomorrow I'll test the motor and see whats up!
IIRC there was a write-up on how to rebuild the regulators, but I can't seem to find it. Can anyone guide me in the right direction?

 

Okay I applied voltage directly to the window motor and it worked beautifully! But I also tried swapping out two functioning switches and it still doesnt work. Any ideas as to why this is?

 

because the motor is not getting power. checked the fuse?

it's best to test the voltage output of the switches at the plug for the window motor, and don't use a DMM, use a test light with at least a 3w bulb. if the bulb is bright, then you know it's got full amps, if it's dim, then it's switch contacts, most likely.

 

Okay, I checked the contacts on the switch and still nothing. Does anyone know how much voltage should read on the connector?
If it were the fuse, the driver's side wouldn't go down either right?
Thanks again everyone!

 

I've been cleaning the switches on my TII twice a year for 12 years. Once I had to replace the regulator. Last year I decided to switch to manual windows. Problem solved.

 

And I own three Verts. I know that pain.

This is all about power getting to the drivers door switch. That power has to go through a number of connectors before it actually gets to the switch itself. Over time, corrosion at each of those connectors builds up building resistance. It's the same situation that causes the sticky starter problem.

My fix was to run power directly from the battery (via a 30 amp fuse of course) to an after market one touch relay set up (usually installed in concert with aftermarket alarms). So the only thing between the battery and your window switch is that relay. Now my windows fly up and down.

Karak mentioned an alternative approach to the same end.

 

or you can use the voltmeter to at least see if the switches are passing ground and power to the pigtail up to the motor, if they are then your "good" switches aren't so good.

even decent looking contacts inside the switch don't mean much because usually the contacts that sit inside the plastic formed base get hot and pushed down, increasing their clearance to touching the contact "wing" arms. this issue just makes it worse as the contacts get dirty quicker due to the now weak pressure applied on the connection. sometimes i play around with bending the wings a little bit to try and get more pressure on the contact point.

 

Ahhhh this makes more sense now. I've only had problems with vert regulators.