How hard would it be to fix this?

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Dec 10, 2012 | 07:45 PM

#26

j9fd3s

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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/

Quote:

Originally Posted by RGNHD

I don't want to be in over my head. I'm hoping it's just the wiring issue. But what do you guys think?

go look at it! the price is right even if the engine is bad, so i think most of us would buy it, unless there is frame damage/bad collision repair.

his pictures aren't good enough to determine what is actually wrong with the car, so you have to go see it in person

Dec 10, 2012 | 08:41 PM

#27

Akagis_white_comet

Hey...Cut it out!

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From: St Louis, MO

Quote:

Originally Posted by clokker

As I said before, the chassis with the trans and diff is probably worth the grand, regardless of the engine.
As to "being in over my head", that's hard to say.

When it comes to electrics there are two levels of expertise.
I can follow schematics and hook things up but don't have satch's seemingly encyclopedic knowledge of the detail/theory.
My deficiencies haven't been too much of an impediment to ownership (so far) and of course, there's always the forum to fall back on.

Anything will seem daunting at first, the trick is to break it down to smaller steps and just start slogging.
If you haven't already done so, I'd recommend you download the service manual and start studying. You'll be living within its pages for a while and will become more comfortable as you go.

+1000 for this
The Second Gen FAQ is also a good starting point for ANY project. Link here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

Do a compression test first and foremost. For the most part, it is the quintessential rotary lie detector. An inexpensive compression test gauge is maybe $15 and pays for itself the first time you use it and find out how honest the seller is.

Download the Factory Service Manual from the FAQ and start reading the wiring diagrams, comparing the N/A one to the TII one and you'll learn that the vast majority of it is the same. There are only a few differences such as the Alternator wiring (TII is in the Engine Harness, N/A runs through Engine, Front and Emission Harnesses).

If the harness is horribly mangled and the included extra one cannot be identified reliably, my gut feeling would say to give the car a standalone EMS with a freshly-built harness. C. Ludwig does a great job on everything he builds, but building a harness is one of those milestone things that makes an owner well-versed. Thankfully, S4 cars are rather straightforward when it comes to a standalone install. Check out mine to get an idea of how to approach it properly here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...888195/page13/

The manner in which I did mine was to extract the Windshield Wiper wiring (including the Cold Start sensor & Cruise Control actuator wiring), de-pin the alternator wires from their connector (FEM-02 I think) and get a matching connector FEM-01 so the stock temperature gauge will work. Information here in post #243: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...888195/page10/

Since I'm using a Taurus Alternator whose wiring is entirely under the hood, this approach really simplified what was necessary to install my Haltech.

Dec 10, 2012 | 08:49 PM

#28

beefhole

Boosted. I got BLOWN!!!

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From: Queens, NY

I really liked this part of the ad: "Interested in concealable boom-sticks"

Dec 11, 2012 | 06:56 AM

#29

RGNHD

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From: Oklahoma

Thank you guys so much for all of your help. When I get paid next week I'm going to go take a look at it and do a compression test myself, I'm hoping the compression is good that way it's just the wiring and hopefully this will be an easy fix but I'm not going to get my hopes up.

I'll update this tread maybe with some pictures when I go look at it.